MikeSharp01

Thanks for this will drop by them on Monday and have a chat.

All we really need is data if we have enough of it we can classify / regress everything, all the factors. No-one in no heat gain from people, cooker not on - same, somebody home tweaking up the stat not comfortable - who home we know the individual comfortable levels. It's all about the unreasonable effectiveness of Data with enough of it very good models are easy even with simple technologies.

Quite the journey you are on there, great to get an update. What's the fun of air tighting an old build like. Our new build is very good, house went up 1 degree as I worked in it today but here, in millstone Manor, it went down 4 degrees while I was out - so I need to get it more air tight. Done some windows and door resealing need to start on the upper works now! Its brick built 50mm cavity with insulation in places. Any tips?

Sounds like you got a bad one there. There must be some RIBA code that protects clients from tin eared architects. Ours was great listened to everything while sticking to their concept yet making changed to suit us and the planners pre planning advice. Worked out well and we are happy with the work they did. We didn't use them to manage the project but not because we thought they couldn't because we wanted to do it ourselves.

It should cost nothing, just a try on - here is process we used. Ask to have the meter removed as you no longer want to pay the standing charge, wait 6 months and you will get a letter asking when the meter is being replaced, you say it isn't they write back and say in that case we will need to cut the supply off at the road - no charge.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cqjrpv218r0o

You won't find a supplier prepared to take the risk on you! You need to derisk it yourself by paying by credit card in 30K lumps - take care there are dragons here. Or go to your local betting shop and see if you can get cover that way. We used Norrsken and they worked out just fine. Carefully doing the measuring processing the order sorting install, doing it well and fixing the one problem we had, a seal getting caught up, diligently.

Now you are showing your age.

The ecodan must be working if the water is heating unless the water heating is done by something else? E.g. immersion heater. If it is heating the water I would look at the changeover valve(s) - maybe it is stuck in water heating mode and the HP is getting a good go signal for that and the error only occurs when heating is requested but it does not get the positional feedback from the valve to say it iss ready to direct the water round the heating.

Yes can't see why not - sounds like a plan.

We use the membrane approach and it worked out very well, using the 4m wide Intello stuff gets the coverage pretty quickly and with fewer joins, although building the internal structure for the service void afterwards / on top has been a pain. We had some section with PB skin on the inside as well as outside so I put inspection holes through that so I could see I had it packed correctly and then covered it in membrane. Don't forget that well packed cellulose fibre is pretty air tight on its own. We achieved 0.2 on the PH Scale (ACH n50) and .29 on the BR scale for our first test, pre Plaster boarding. So far I have not damaged it but I am about to push the MVHR inlet and outlet through it so we will see how we get on!

Yes - that about sums up Chefing though - cooking made difficult or have I got that wrong?

We went for option 2 in the end - BC suggested best as did a few here.

Welcome to THE forum.

This is the idea we saw yes we are - we did the garden room and it was not a chore really and it came out well enough - we expect to do better this time around. If we don't like it however we will get it skimmed. yes I think it is dry-wall I will check though - thank for the link.

I think we saw it in a magazine I will ask.

We want to achieve a shadow gap under the window sills on our build. We are intending to drywall it all if we can, I have made a model of what we want but I am worried that I won't be able to feather this in. Is there a better way to form this in a drywall situation? Here are some pics of my model. Any ideas gratefully accepted.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us - sounds like fun up there in Glasgow if the weather is anything to go by!

Yes we have Norrsken - very happy. As I understand it not all their windows are Viking, we have two windows that are not but are close enough to looking the same to make no difference and one of them has a tilt & turn triangular casement which is what we wanted.

Create a fireplace outside ' you have that amazing veranda / lougia We just stayed in a PH place in Skye with a log burner - we light it up and flung open all the windows stripped to our undies - not a pretty sight, perhaps marginally worse than a picture of pocster.

You already did it - twice!

Just spoke to a colleague of mine, civil engineer / soil mechanic he has never heard of 20m piles for a to story building other than if you are building on a bog! Ask them why they need 20m piles.

A small 2 story property needs 20m piles! Sounds a lot to me - do they need to get to bedrock?

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Sound like a great project look forward to hearing more.

Right to light is a thing but not for planning. It can cost a lot to go to law over it but it can cost the people who infringe it shed loads. Get a feel for it here: https://www.onebroker.co.uk/business/business-sectors/one-indemnity/right-to-light-insurance/