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Everything posted by MikeSharp01
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Good idea and when you fit them make sure there is no rust on the case metal, if there is get a rust killing metal priming paint, paint over the rust and when fitting the screw put a dab of silicon seal in the hole to prevent any water running past the new screws from getting underneath and rusting the case any further.
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Have read it, found it praiseworthy in its frankness and sense of surprise that what looks like Heat Geek's anecdotal view was found to be correct, and it answers many other questions while raising a few more in my mind. Firstly for our build which only has slab UFH keeping the bedroom temps down, what you describe as TRV clamping, cannot be done so may be a problem and although I have read loads here on this challenge. Meanwhike here at Millstone Manor we have TRVs on all the rads. Our boiler is now almost 10 years old and has no WC feature so runs on a single central stat. We have experimented this year with turning up the bedroom settings, lowering the flow temperature, to leave the boiler running for longer no full results yet but lowering the temp has had +ve impact.
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Question about DNO approvals and inverters
MikeSharp01 replied to Beelbeebub's topic in Photovoltaics (PV)
You don't necessarily have to stick with the 3.68 kW, do a G99 application and ask for more. We did that and asked for 6kW export limit on single phase with 7kW of panels connected and it was granted. You may be unlucky and live in an area where everybody has solar and the local infrastructure can't cope - they have to allow 3.68kW of export but after that it is down to the DNO - so very little is lost just asking. -
Just had another look at your photos. The boiler image is showing 39 deg flow (out) and 38 deg return (back in) on the heating circuit. Is this this a true set of numbers because if it is it suggests some sort of bypass so water has found a way back to the boiler without going round the heating loops. Maybe an open valve somewhere?
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Hi Junaid and welcome to the forum for people like us. A couple of questions: 1. When you did the hose pipe connection did you get good flow through all the lines? 2. It looks like you have two manifolds, is that right, and if so how are they connected together. 3. Is the pump a separate unit or built into the boiler? If separate can we have a picture and the makers plate to show what sort of a pump it is?
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Advantage of an induction hob.
MikeSharp01 replied to SteamyTea's topic in Kitchen & Household Appliances
No built in extractor though! -
So if you choose a lighter but better insulated roof a meter or so higher you won't be adding much weight on the structure below and maybe none at all if done with care and engineered well. I like the idea of the half lift but think that might be a structure too far - worth the discussion though.
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Sizing MVHR
MikeSharp01 replied to sonicboom's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
Usually by putting a fan in your front door opening and pressurising the house to +/- 50 pascals while calculating the air flow through the fan when holding that pressure. knowing the volume of the house you can then work out the air tightness relative to the building control levels and the natural leakage rate you can expect. This then gives you the air changes per hour and you can very simply size the MVHR unit from there. I would look also at the Titon units, which we have and think much of, made in UK and have simple to use yet sophisticated control features. -
Can we ask how crazy the supply cost was because you are already stacking up cost on the other side. EG generator & wind turbine etc?
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No there might be one or two but most on here think its a real thing and so also a real problem.
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You can see we have the brakes on in many areas but my depression really flows from the hill we still have to climb and too may people not taking it seriously - either 'its not a problem' or 'someone will come along with a solution and all will be well' seem to be the responses of too many fellow travellers.
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Insightful, interesting, depressing.
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Yes you are correct - I will get that edited.
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I think is a simple enough, as, if you could reduce the uncontrolled airtightness to 0 (zero) then any ventilation would all need to be controlled windows open or not. MVHR is a way of controlling the ventilation (MV) while recovering 90% (ish) of the heat in the air being expelled from the house to allow the house to breath. Airtightness as you say @SBMS is important. here are the figures from the PHPP for our build. First with the achieved air tightness of 0.2 (n50) And then as the Passive house worst case allowable of 0.6 (n50) And just for fun I set the figure the PH equivalent of the Building Regs figure. (0.2 n50 = 0.3 [From our certificate] of 8 m3/hr/m2 from Building Regs. So 8 /0.3 = 26.6666 => 26.6666 * .2 = 5.3333 which is what I entered – clearly at that point we would not have a passive house but see what it does to the Heating Load – almost doubles it. Heating load goes from 8.268 * 139 = 1149.25W to 1957.54W still only need small ASHP but hey I am saving all that energy and cost. I am not sure if I can wind the efficiency of the MVHR down to 0 and see what fully uncontrolled ventilation would cost - lets see, well the PHPP spreadsheet will work it out, but a little message says - 'please get a new designer', and the figure is 20.384W/m2 pops out. So 139 x 20.384 = 2833.38W
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Yes BUT it depends somewhat on how you look at it. Assuming you need .5 ACH from all sources (Natural leakage + Controlled Ventilation) the smaller you make the Natural leakage with great air tightness and more of that controlled ventilation ACH you can get the MVHR to package the more you are saving. Looking at it this way it does not add to the losses, 0.5 ACH would be a total loss if all of it was natural, but does what it says on the tin and recovers a significant proportion of the heat embodied in that air thereby saving you money and the planet some energy. So, in that sense, it does not add to the losses you needed 0.5 ACH anyway it just recovers a chunk of the energy from it such that it will always be a saving just in the slightly different dimensions of money & energy.
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The interval then - all hands on deck in the bar!
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No neither was I which is why I deleted my post - you must be having a very fun packed evening if you sample BH so often you picked it up in the 2 minutes it was on the site. Just enjoy your evening and we will just imagine the fun you are having.
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Yes but you live in the frozen North! The whole issue here is that the numbers don't add up / work out makes you wonder how good the spreadsheet they are using is.
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-5.8 feels like a low number, where are you installing?
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Possibly, I will get it dug out but probably not this side of XMAS, sorry @pudding - where are you we used the UKPN online assessment system and uploaded all the images and documents.
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Finaly have our Completion certificate
MikeSharp01 replied to Buzz's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Brilliant - well done, no comes the VAT reclaim, the rerating by the Local Authority and lifetime of increasingly minor snagging! -
Welcome to THE forum for people like us - although, to be fair, I don't live on a boat! The thing about underfloor heating is that it is one of the oldest heating technologies, other than an open fire, being developed by the Romans - now if I know my Romans you can bet that some mad Caesar asked for a heated floor in their 'barge'!
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We did not upgrade this was new build so a single application for everything, just need time to pull it all together and redact the private parts (See if Pocster reads this) so I can publish it.
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OK so we got permission today to export a max of 6kW on a single phase, all we asked for - so good news. When I get time I will post everything I sent them, suitably redacted, to help others contemplating this route. Although ours is somewhat specific to UK power networks.
