MikeSharp01

We will be cooling the slab at the same time so the dew point will be important. I guess then that some sort of dynamic dew point (DP) monitoring / calculating will be needed as the various environmental factors affecting DP will be moving about all the time. The good old DHT22 in combination with the Lawrence approximation equation [ Td = T - ((100 - RH)/5.) ] should do that? I cannot see how I can do a drain back the plant area given the way the pipe would need to run - so perhaps that is us out of this one, so that's a few grand saved before breakfast.

There are many on here that extoll the virtues of fan coil units so I thought it would be fun to see if we could put a couple in - one for each bedroom. Looks straight forward enough but two questions come up. Firstly what pipe to use from the plant space to the units. I have found THIS stuff which looks like it should work. Will it? Secondly do I need to provision for a condensate drain back to the plant room and away or can an evaporative approach be taken as in most fridges?

Think the import / export meter should be after the CU so it captures all the loads on the CU not just the inverter / battery combination on the edge of the properties consumption / export.

Good plan Either way you still need an external seal, mastic / silicon or compriband (or similar) (I note they say on the section image that this seal is by others but that must be the installers as the drawing is from the manufacturer) and the EPDM under the window needs to be lapped up the rear of the frame, or when fitted the sill, somewhat to prevent water getting in. It is a poor detail in the way it has been done here by the looks of it but we cannot see how it is detailed. The occasional use of a a few packers looks wrong and the continuous sill sounds like a good outcome. Check the registration details of the installers (well the people you are paying) EG FENSA and then consider talking to them about the quality of work as they may well have sanctions they can use if the reinstall is not to your satisfaction.

Then you will need to do a lot of value engineering or borrowing.

I am no structural engineer but my guess is the three bolt scheme is much better because the extra bolt is taking a chunk of the load and preventing a straight fracture across the two straight up and down bolts - the only thing I really know about structures is that 'triangles' are everything.

Don't say that as I only get to build full time in the vacation - then I am back on the semi retired part time role I have.

In what way have they declined one wonders, fewer of them, fewer visits by the owners?

good move - face the daemons head on.

Nope, no motorways in Norfolk, but not 100 miles to the M11 - the closest I suspect maybe 40 miles. The M11 gets gets you to the bottom of the A11 which is still in Essex - the A11 / A14 bit of the run is good through Cambridgeshire & Suffolk then, when you switch back to the A11 and head for Norwich and into Norfolk, they hit you with a selection of annoyingly busy roundabouts interspersed by some great bits of dual carriageway.

We love Norfolk, spent the last couple of days there, going backwards and forwards round the Norwich ring road - one thing we can say is that the diesel is cheap up there, and the pan tiled roof's, the North Norfolk coastal path, big skies only a couple of draw backs- the two lane section of the M11 and the roundabouts on the A11, sort them and it will be even more of a pleasure to visit!

+1 I have wired ours as full radial lighting so every light fitting and switch has a wire back to the panel with a number. Appreciate that this cannot be done in this situation but we should move to it, or something equally simple for future builds. The only thing the old approach has going for it is that is probably uses less cable.

Would be good to see the outside finish, should be Compriband, might be mastic as @Mr Punter says, post a picture to confirm.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us, sounds like an interesting project.

That looks like Ilbruck air tight sealing foam, they just have not pressed it in flush with the foam. Our installers waited for it to skin then just pushed anything that stuck out back into the gap nothing stuck out. You can probably still do it as the Ilbruck foam stays flexible anyway. You can then run the final plaster board reveals round and plaster from there, assuming that is your build up.

Just in case I am not happy with my drywalling skills. Did the garden room OK but the house has much bigger expanses and on 10m long wall directly to your left when you come in the front door so you will see any undulations I worry. Base of plaster boards is dead flat and all vertical joints are butt joints with tapered edges - it's just I wanted to be sure I had a get out if I need it.

I am wondering if it is OK to plaster over an easyfill filled drywall?

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Ask away.

Neat idea, must remember that when we install ours.

Looks very good, assuming 25p day rate and 17p night rate your energy cost you: £599 which is £50 PCM all bar the shouting - bloody good.

Sorry. What I meant was that the smooth continuous operation gets interrupted by the demand for DHW so that needs to be factored in - does higher temperature operation, or changes to from, impact noise levels.

How does this relate to the need once / twice a day to run up the DHW temp if PV / Solar not available?

Only by having camera's in places you shouldn't - I dimly recall your being knocked back across a rubicund you were thinking to cross in this regard.

Yes 96 + outlets does seem a lot for a house.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Ask away for advice and support.