MikeSharp01

As it says on the tin really but somewhat thought provoking. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2024/sep/28/heat-pumps-future-hot-air-labour-home-upgrade?CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other

Very tidy - what nut inserts did you use and are they just press fit?

Hmmmm... not sure they got to the bottom of it either - interesting watching them work through it though.

I guess whichever way you look at it the limit is the limit not the target and the sums also work to tell you that you will be stopped from 29 mph when the 30 mph car is still going.

Hi and welcome to THE forum for people like us. Civils is often a hot topic here but not in the big end of the market: Runways, Motorways, railways etc but rather the smaller end: drains, soil technics, foundations.

Is that two MVHR extracts in the light square? If so why two and not a single large one - is it catch air from different areas or is there another reason?

Hi, and welcome to THE forum for people like us.

Sounds about right to me, scales nicely with the install portion of our supply and fit cost.

Get a 4 mppt inverter

Yes - hob on the island makes sense with a downdraft recirculating extractor so you don't clutter the ceiling. I would also break up the pattern of lights in the ceiling - it looks like you are coming in to land at Heathrow as it stands perhaps use a 4 - 3 - 4 - 3 scheme with slightly wider angle bulbs in the 3 lamp groups.

Looks like a tidy job.

For each window location the combination of glass functionality might differ, your supplier should know what the rules are, assuming they are certified (FENSA etc) I am not sure how the middle pane needs to behave in all situations and don't forget to decide how the glass responds to sunlight if you want to control solar gain etc.

I would look to see if you can use the Illbruck Compriband tapes to seal the outside then inject the foam from the inside behind the compriband this is the way ours are fitted.

I don't have a horizontal cylinder but the only disadvantages I saw / found when looked at one for here were: 1. Structural they are not really single point loads so you need to be sure you get them put above a suitable supporting structure. 2. Stratification of the water temperature is harder / impossible to achieve - this can be an advantage as well. 3. They loose heat marginally faster than vertical cylinders do.

Yes- this was the guy our daughter employed to tile her kitchen - complete rubbish. Had to strip them all off and do it ourselves.

Feels about right - in the ball park anyway and scales almost exactly from our rebuild cost.

Yes its a mine field - we just renewed ours for 12 months and it was in the ball park of a grand! (We are at 2nd fix now so they tell me there is more to insure at this stage, which I suppose is true!)

On ours I designed it and have set the flow rates. I am using the attenuators to give me flexibility, of the pipes, as much as sound attenuation. The main distribution box will have its own silencer and the two other distribution boxes will also be baffled and internally covered in acoustic foam so I am hopeful it won't be too noisy - I also have a until that has the twice the capacity needed even for boost so am expecting it to run at about 20-25% of its capacity most of the time which should keep the noise down. I can then also use a high boost for cooling via a heat battery in the bedroom distribution feed - which will be noisy but then so are fan coil units of my acquaintance.

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for people like us. We are doing most of the work ourselves except the roof slating and fitting the 3G windows. Ours is 150m2 , so not huge, and expecting to be a passive house and so quite technical. I think we will come in around £1 - 1.2k /m2 but only just for the build itself. Although if we go high end for the Kitchen and the main flooring will maybe push that over a bit. If you think about it on 150m2 build every £1000 spent puts slightly over £6.50 on the per square meter price so you need to watch the pennies.

Going to be tough until you get the cladding on and can seal the frames to that. I would just run bead of silicone round them all until then.