MikeSharp01

Make the application and be realistic about expectations. We got what we asked for on a single phase, 6kW. Pretty sure we would not have got 12kW but optimistically we might. The only risk is that they worry about future applications so squeeze yours at this stage to protect the medium term.

Is the material magnetic? It looks like oxidised Aluminium to me, so won't be galvanised steel.

Calibration not needed, I did ours with an dust extractor unit a relatively cheap anemometer and a length of plastic tube to make a manometer ( I also used a high end differential pressure meter as well but the manometer gave a reliable result.) I got within a few % of the official test. Builhub has an anemometer in its loan system.

Cripes - @ 24.5p per kWh that is approximately £24 a day or close to £700 a month. Something is wrong somewhere - but I guess you know that.

Not really because the ring system is 24V at 500mA AC by the looks of it. Your transformer is 8V at 1.00A so neither has the power output needed (12W needed 8W available) or the voltage (24V needed 8V available.)

Yes - assuming it was done in some way under the MCS scheme as that requires the installers to account for DHW.

Very hard to get anything like airtight.

I thought the fitted appliances where VAT allowable - have I got that wrong?

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. People will be along shortly I am confident @Gone West has not dissimilar challenges for one.

looks amazing, you are right to be proud.

Is the BTW unit a twin tank or does it do its cleaning in the middle of the night and is this not wasteful?

Real curved ball that one.the

Great to see you back, sadly Hertfordshire, " it is so long since one has been in Harfordshire." is not my patch so can't help on the ask.

Yep I will dig it out.

Yes I built it using my go to device - the RPi pico, it worked. Logs to a MQTT dashboard- that was as far as I got. Only any good for one way flows though.

We have one of these: https://www.offgridrenewables.co.uk/products/growatt-spm-e-single-phase-smart-meter?variant=49293197705484&country=GB&currency=GBP&gad_source=1 it does need to be spliced into the supply but it has RS485 connection so does not need cloud connectivity.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

We have always had Neff and we like the slide-away feature on our oven. We have done the rounds for the new build and have come down again on Neff for the Hob (integrated extractor), Cookers & dishwashers. We like our Bosch fridge/freezer at millstone manor and so we are having one of those in the new place. The washing machine has been a harder choice and still to be made. All our appliances are built in so that also squeezes the options a bit.

Clicky pipes, when pipes expand and contract, have until today been quite a comfort. You know things are happening - the central heating comes on the pipes click, it goes off they click, click, click again, you dump a whole heap of hot water down the kitchen sink and click click click. So it goes on. Last night we stayed in a hotel and everytime anybody did anything, our room or others, the pipes went clickety click - and it finally got to me. So, although we have done first fix plumbing, I am going to work out how to prevent the clicking and rework it all. The problem is I don't have a clue how best to do it. I assume the clicking arises from / at the pipe clips - where else can it be. How have other people overcome this or am I really over thinking this?

Sort of agree but I guess it depends how smart your controls are, it was only an idea and it would need to account for consequence loops if implemented and if it went into defrost while heating the DHW alone the risk you mention is still there so switching the UFH into the circuit perhaps on its own at that point could mitigate the risk although then you would be drawing a small quantity of high temp water into the UFH which might not be healthy. PS all this on the assumption the HP does not reverse the flow in defrost if it does then that might be a complication. Just run the immersion off the battery to make up the loss.

Sounds topologically like Y plan then. We won't have the two wired together as I am thinking to switch both the to open position if the ASHP goes into defrost so as to max out the heat available although we have around 50l in the UFH and if that is at 20⁰ there should be enough heat, it weighs 44T, in there, even if it goes round a couple of times, to defrost the heat pump, if not bring the DHW tank pipework into play.

I just thought I would ask MS Copilot to give me an overview of the sizing views here. Worked out OKish and this thread featured. Prompt was simply: "Hi, what is the consensus on buildhub.org.uk about sizing a heat pump to a house please." (I always include the Hi at the start and the please somewhere because I don't want to degrade my attention to such things in other parts of my life - IE I want to avoid assuming that everybody I talk to are automata.) Result was simply: " On BuildHub.org.uk, there's a general consensus that accurate heat loss calculations are crucial for sizing a heat pump - https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/42699-heat-pump-sizing-sense-check/. Users emphasize the importance of considering ventilation losses, insulation quality, and the specific heating needs of different rooms - https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/42699-heat-pump-sizing-sense-check/. Many contributors suggest that over-sizing a heat pump can lead to inefficiency and reduced lifespan, while under-sizing can result in inadequate heating. It's recommended to size the heat pump to handle 99% of the heating load, ensuring it can cope with the coldest days." So this thread features as do others. EG this one:

So all you need to do is reduce down to 6mm at the very end, making sure the cable is clipped direct - ref method C. While scrubbing the 2.5mm spur and going another way with that. Alternatively you could discuss the definition of "dedicated" and spur the 25mm at the very end of the cable at the EV charger. I am dedicated, and vice-versa I hope, to my wife but we also have two kids🤔 to whome we are both dedicated.

Won't you need to split and re-fuse the 2.5mm line - switch fused spur in a weather proof box. Otherwise you could draw 40A through the 2.5mm cable which could turn out to be a very bad idea.

Makes perfect sense. I think provided I make it properly, no corners cut, use common building blocks, document it to within an inch of its life and don't demand any cloud connectivity I hope to be OK. I will also take our kids through it so they can help their mum if needs be. There should be room in the panels (2×600×700) to go proprietary if needed.