Iceverge

Plus one. Just avoid any complex designs. Every corner adds £10k they say. Likewise a roof gets massively more expensive the more complex it gets. Try not to let the architect do the thing where they stretch the ground floor plan to be fatter than the upstairs. This means that you have to breach the thermal envelope to support the first floor walls and it's expensive to get right thermally.

Here's a bit of a gash suggestion. Fill the bath and cut and scrape out all the existing grout and silicone in place. Empty the bath. Take off the bath side cover. Cut battens to the right size for the width and length of the bath and push up from below as a dry fit. Make vertical supports to keep it pushed up against the base of the bath. These will ensure a tight fit. Next remove the dry fit batten and cover it in CT1 to seal the gap from below. Really heap it on there. Then push it up from below and wedge it there with the pre cut timbers. Put in a few screws to hold them in place if you can. Fill the bath. Apply as much CT1 as you can from above to meet that pushed up from below. Silicone later on. Beware it'll be tricky to put in the battens and potentially very messy with the CT1. It might get you through to a proper job when you can retile.

You could chuck in some rebar and pour one in place. Very cheap.

All the more reason to start thinking about it. For a future us, activity managing a planets climate will be no more complex than turning up or down the thermostat. Tiny tweets over several millennia will keep it "just right". At least in the climate zone of whoever's controls the dial. With the correct equipment I imagine we could probably do it now. I don't know where we're going to find a space mirror large enough however.

Long term, I wonder if we should proactively engage in some kind of climate management to keep the planet habitable, prevent ice ages etc. I wonder how this could be done, cloud generators, orbital dust clouds in space to shade the sun for cooling, maybe a provoke an eruption of a few volcanoes to block out the sun. For heating maybe maximising the water vapour in the atmosphere with huge hydro products with the aim of atomising water as a greenhouse gas. Maybe bio engineering some black fungus to colonise the ice caps and prevent so much sunlight being reflected back to space.

Impossible to know. It could be scraping across a sharp edge every time it moves or just banging harmlessly against the plasterboard. It could break today or outlast the house.

Why? Here's a detail from Knauf showing just this.

The lazy man in me says this is the best solution. However adding some kind of "shock absorber" to the pipe would be easier than pulling down the ceiling IMO. Others might be able to advise on the best products/methods.

If the world continues to warm we'll just have to move to Siberia and Northern Canada. However if the CO2 keeps rising we're in trouble. It's double the average for the last 800,000 years. https://climate.nasa.gov/vital-signs/carbon-dioxide/ Soon we'll all be idiots. Quote : In fact, at 1400 ppm, CO2 concentrations may cut our basic decision-making ability by 25 percent, and complex strategic thinking by around 50 percent, the authors found https://www.news-medical.net/news/20200421/Atmospheric-CO2-levels-can-cause-cognitive-impairment.aspx

If you have any light fittings that can be removed maybe you can have a look. Jam a phone with the video and torch on in there and see what you can see when you cycle the tap. Once you see it you may be able to jam a bit of foam or work a piece of string to stop it annoying you. If this doesn't happen when the two is closed slowly another option is to fit a hammer arrestor on the pipe near the tap.

It's approved for unventilated roof construction. However like @Temp says there is a risk of trapping moisture against the back of the tiling battens. This can be overcome with counterbattens above the membrane but if your tiles are on you don't have this option. If the roof covering is on then you're in this position an you'll need ventilation below the membrane. https://www.ikogroup.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IKO-Breathable-Membrane-A5-Nov22.pdf

Here is a suggested build up. Worst case as it's the roof with the impermeable EDPM outboard. There is some condensation but note the outside temperature of -5. I suspect you are getting some in frosty weather as is. As soon the outside temperature picks up to something reasonable any condensation dries again. This model will show that if you put an impermeable layer inside the studs there will be no condensation, BUT it assumes there's no moisture trapped there during construction, no pinholes in the EPDM , no tiny faults in the taping of the membrane etc etc. You appear to have first fixes the electricity wires, I would pull them out and put them inside the membrane in the 50mm service cavity. If you run the 45*45mm battens horizontally too you will eliminate almost all repeat thermal bridging. Here's one I'm going to get finished some time soon..........any day now.............. 150mm Studs @600mm cc with rockwool. Membrane, 45*45mm battens @ 400mm cc . Lessons learned. Insulate the roof before the walls, and maybe put the service cavity battens at 600mm cc for 15mm plasterboard.

I would be cautious of trapping moisture in the structure, especially at the roof with the membrane, so no to the impermeable layers inboard for me. No matter how perfect a job you do moisture will get inside a structure, the important thing is to allow it to dry. I would fill between the timbers with a batt insulation and use a variable control layer like Pro Clima Intello plus or Siga Majrex. Tape all penetrations diligently. These should allow all moisture in the cavity, timbers, ply etc to dry inwards only preventing a trapping of moisture. inside this you can put a layer of battens with batt insulation between and then plasterboard/osb. I would stay away from foil faced PIR in all cases her, especially on the roof.

I can't comment on the price,how big is it? There is a lot of work involved in this however. The spec for Insulation and airtightness isn't great . U value of about 0.5 with 75mm PIR between rafters. Do you know what the spec of the roof is at the moment? How deep are the rafters etc? Any pics?

No, it won't stick to blockwork. Membranes, OSB, Foil faced boards, metal all ok. If you tried to stick it to block it'd just pull off a thin layer of dust. With boarding you'll be depending on the board adhesive to seal around the edges of the boards and any penetrations like sockets etc for airtightness. I would tape a strip of membrane to the bottom PIR board and stick it to the blocks with some airtight sealant like this. Then make sure the boarders cover the joint between the blocks and membrane with a continuous bead of boarding adhesive, it's as important to prevent any damp air escaping from the house to your roof and rotting it, as it is for energy saving and comfort. It can be easier to leave the membrane too wide, then seal and then trim back to 50-100mm once done. This is the stuff. Wear gloves as it's like permanent chewing gum.

This is the stuff we used by another name but it was a bit cheaper. It was excellent. It was cheaper than the Soudal Equivalent and tougher. We used a little bit of tyvek too but it wasn't even close to being straight.

If it's the membrane you're speaking of then yes. Regarding the tape so long as its one designed for purpose it'll be ok. Maybe buy one roll each of a couple of types and see what you think. Its generally only as good as it is easy to use. Regarding sticking the last sheet of the PIR to the blockwork. What is your wall finish going to be? Boarded or wet plaster?

Welcome welcome.

It'd be easier to just install a post lift on flat ground and drive another car underneath I'd have thought.

+1 to the FM330. Maybe put some masking tape over any frame faces you don't want to get foam stuck to. Much easier than cleaning it off later. It looks a rushed job. Have you paid them in full?

Seems a strange method. Did you get the levels for the floor wrong first day? Have you done any calcs as to the benefit of the extra 50mm EPS Vs just a thicker screed and more heat capacity in the slab? In any case I wouldn't put another layer of DPM under the insulation. You'll end up with 4 X separate layers of impermeable plastic in the floor buildup. I can't see any justification for this.

What we really need is an option like buying a toaster. Pay one person, get one product. If you could find a good company this is a good route. Not terribly entertaining for someone like me who wants to get stuck in however.

The commonality between the failure of people to grasp climate change and ASHP operations is the delayed feedback. Take an instant feedback system like burning your finger on a candle. Instant result. Well understood. Similarly if it's not instant result but there is a good display of what's happening people understand it. Filling a bath is my example. ASHP for most individuals have no meaningful instant feedback. How about a face that tells you "hey I'm working on that 22deg you wanted, it'll be another hour mate".

Use a suitable breathable membrane then and go for it I say. Don't forget about the airtight attic hatch.

Why not an A2A unit. Instant response. If only they had some less complex controls.