Iceverge

Yes we have it. Cost about €2500 in 2020 to DIY. Running costs are about €40/year on electricity and the same again in filters. About 2hrs labour per year I would say on average for cleaning and servicing the unit. I DIY it and my unit is very accessible, not tucked away in the corner of some attic On a new build on £££ alone won't stack up against dMEV or DCV unless you use the energy savings to omit the central heating from the budget on day 1 like we did. I would do it again for the comfort and quietness. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who was unlikely to spend the time or money on correct maintenance. For them a few Greenwood dMEV fans and humidity sensitive wall vents would be a far better bet.

For speed an insulated metal panel kit is probably the fastest. https://www.insulatedpanelstore.co.uk/garden-rooms?srsltid=AfmBOoqRKgKk5A49VJzAw4UAI0A1Qrr_WqlDy83VP-C2g0KhavY7zK4x For cost you'll stick frame it on site yourself a lot cheaper. Liam has some tutorials here. He does a DIY metal insulted panel recently too which looks economical. https://youtube.com/@thegardenroomguru?si=F75UkGxu67eeS0py I wouldn't use PIR between timbers ever though, too fiddly to get right and lots of waste. Mineral wool is a better option in my view. What people forget to do is. 1. Add appropriate ventilation. I have a dMEV fan in my office. About £70. Same as @JohnMo. I couldn't recommend it enough. 2. Appropriately Airtight the building. If you do these things you can heat such a small room warm very quickly with a fan heater. I did a suspended timber floor in my office. Wouldn't do it again, everything rattles. @Nickfromwales did an insulated slab I believe although it was shrouded on secrecy........

Why not just fill the cavity with bonded beads? https://www.greenwood.co.uk/continuous-extract-dmev/unity-cv2-gip For air quality and humidity control I'm a big fan of these.....er.....fans..... eBay has them for handy money regularly enough and they're very effective and near silent.

PREACH!!! I'm going to have this tattooed on my forehead.

Do you have access to a trailer with a ladder rack? In any case I think the battens would only be 140kg. Assuming you tie them to the towing eye and rear hitch it should be fine.

https://www.obadis.com/en/villeroy-und-boch-rechteck-badewanne-ubq180lib2v-01-180-x-80-cm-weiss.html It's made from "Quaral" whatever the hell that is. It's fine but standing in the narrow end is of limited enjoyment, too narrow. It holds a fantastic quantity of water too. I would just get a normal acrylic bath with a flat middle and put the shower head along the long wall next time. Bracing it properly underneath is about 90% of the battle of any bath I think.

Should be banned! Infact ban toilet paper too. Bidet, bidet toilet seat or shattaff and a day of sewer cleaning for anyone who blocks it subsequently.

I would sway towards the crane contractors side on this one.

Or put a large concrete block behind a few doors in the house to limit them to 400mm opening. See how it goes down. We have one much like yours above, 1500x900mm. A 300mm flapper panel on the gap of 400mm. It's forever wetting the bathroom floor. I'd opt for a complete enclosure door and put the shower head on the long wall which we did down stairs. Much more elbow room and you can splash to your heart's content and no wet bathroom floor.

I gave up the news entirely, except the FT occasionally and some economics and political podcasts. They're without exception tremendously boring. My worrys have decreased proportionately. I check a weather app ( or aviation weather) with plain numbers and no other sensationalist garbage. The world is determined to feed out fears as it sells but you can opt out of you choose.

I'm out of ideas. Polyfilla?;

Where do these pipes go and why are these slabs lower? A miss directed pipe might wash out the fines under a foundation faster than you think.

Outside pics please. Something tells me this is a "bottom up issue rather than a "top down". Is there bad guttering or drains eroding under the foundations?

True, I reckon you could literally scrub it off the walls if you had a scourer.

As above. Mineral wool between the joists, not PIR. Otherwise dig it out and pour a new floor on as much insulation as you can fit. I like EPS. Better still knock and rebuild the entire house if it's a big renovation.

I'm a fan of this for allowed walls to dry. Resembles a thin layer of chalk almost when dry. Easy to touch up too and it's dirt cheap.

It's possible they forgot about it and/or run out of money. In any case of it's not causing an active nuisance I'd forgot about it, lest they actually start lighting it. Perhaps take the time to gently remind your mum that she doesn't own everything she can see from the kitchen window, no matter how much of an arsehole the neighbour is.

I wish they did a mobile version of ubakus. It's my favourite game.

It could be a "I'll finish this later" job with no wood burner connected inside or they went entirely overkill on a kitchen extractor. Unless it was at risk of setting the house on fire or activity causing a smoke nuisance I would leave well enough alone. You may not improve the situation

Correct, no gap. It's a bad idea as it will allow internal air to circulate freely and condense on the internal face of the existing wall causing damage. Espically at joist ends.

I wouldn't get too hung up on WiFi or any other modelling tool. It is powerful software but it is only as good as the build of the house. The golden rule is that a building must consistently dry faster than it accumulates moisture. In priority order: 1. Eliminate bulk water infiltration from gutters, roof leaks, driving rain, high water tables etc. 2. Establish proper ventilation to control internal humidity levels. Mechanical is best, eg DCV or MVHR. 3. Airtightness. Drafts carry moisture laden internal air into the structure where it condenses and causes issues. It out weights the effects of diffusion driven moisture by over a factor of 100. 4. Take care with layering vapour impermeable materials. They really hinder drying if done incorrectly . Permeable and "breathable" materials are not a Panacea. They will not compensate for ignoring the above principles.

The scaffold appears to have no cross bracing and the nearest leg is a stiff breeze from slipping off the footpath and see-sawing on 3 legs or falling over. It's a serious hazard to the public. I wouldn't them play with my Lego. There's a worrying lack of the fundamentals. It's really disappointing and I'm sorry it's happened. Can you tell us more about the contractor? Do any of the following apply? 1. Avail at quite short notice. 2. Cheaper than any other quotes. 3. References were in writing or over the phone, not in person on site of an existing project. 4. They dismissed the need for independence oversight from your Architect or Engineer as unnecessary. I fear they'll disappear into the ether when challenged. For now the utility connection is a very small priority and I would prepare mentally that this debacle may set you back the full cost of the roof and months of delay. Again, it's unfortunate to see such unscrupulous operators out there chancing this.

Are you sure and certain that you entirely own the wall? How about the existing footings? Surely they belong to your neighbours on their side of the wall. In any case it's a technically simple(ish) problem to solve. I'd remove the existing wall and footings, pour a reinforced concrete wall tied into a L or T shaped foundation. Then face it with whatever you want on your side. The tricky point is deciding who will pay for it. My suggestion is shake hands on 50/50 and stay well away from any legal disputes which will cost much more.

Hand in your "real man" card immediately. f0e7ca71-76c0-45df-9b70-5857ffdba13a.mp4

@CJO welcome to the site. Always nice to see new blood coming in and good luck with your build. Sometimes about the phrasing here made me think "here we go, someone else shilling their wares". I imagine this is what @Gus Potter picked up on. I had a look at the channel and clearly you're just two more usual victims for hardship like the rest of us. Internet forums are a blunt comms platform and giving the benefit of the doubt to the other posters works well, not only in posting but also in retort. Hopefully we can carry on in that spirit.