Iceverge

It's 's a waste of effort insulating any pipe that is only occasionally heated up like pipe runs to basins etc in my opinion. Anything that's permanently hot like a hot return loop or pipes attached to a cylinder need to be well insulated. As for cold, it depends, if you are showing no evidence of condensation on them I wouldn't bother.

I wouldn't paint it, you'll be stuck painting it forever. Work with what you have is my opinion. Before going anywhere near EWI let's start at the start. 1. How to you currently ventilate the house? Extractor fans and tickle vents? 2. What's the airtighess situation? Is the house very drafty? 3. Insulation. Do you have attic insulation and cavity wall insulation? Sort things in this order.

Too late.......... Probably.

A2A here. It's working pucker. You can hear the fan but it's not bad. Estimate cop is 3-3.5. cost €1500 installed, eBay and cash to a mate for Fgas. Daikin FTXM25R.

There's a sniff of some other axe being ground here. My gut feeling is that some egos were bruised about the moderate success of ED outside the BBC and tightened the leash to reassert authority.

Excellent. Step 1: Accidentally burn it to the ground.

Use some geotextile fabrics to wrap the stone in too to prevent them all silting up.

A quick run of sketchup copying the above idea. Stud out the end to make a bath fit tightly, Have a wetroom shower adjacent. Bidet + Bog Vanity. I'd put a few cabinets above the toilet/bidet for storage. I would probably opt for a sliding shower door as my children are feral and maybe a 1700mm double ended bath as I'm tight with using too much water. As for shampoo storage, I reckon a hook in the ceiling for a basket to carry shampoo etc is the best way to avoid scum in niches etc. I'd prefer to keep the toilet away from the door for the sensibilities ( and tender ear drums) of other house occupants.

Should probably ban anyone who exhales CO2 as well, or buys or uses any petroleum products, or any renewable energies too for that matter. Or anyone who deliberately avoids using oil based products, or people who refuse to breath as they're hardly independent.

Thats timber for you. It does that. A good joiner will be able to plane it or somehow otherwise magically straighten it for you.

Agreed. Get a consaw and neatly cut a track along the perimeter of the house, and lay a gravel bed say 200mm wide around the house. If you could I would make a full french drain. If you still notice you are getting water wicking up the bricks from splashing then I would consider applying some silicone brick cream to the bottom few rows. In any case I wouldn't worry about the inside of the house getting damp as you have a cavity wall.

Let the timber sills inside the house for 3-4 days to acclimate to the house first. Then glue or pin nail the sills in place.

Just what I was going to say. No need to make it expensive. Just rig this up to your wet rooms. All those stoners growing weed in their lofts had to come in for something useful in the end.

By the way. That’s exactly how I did that………. Be afraid……BE VERY AFRAID!!!!

How about that…….

I doubt anyone would even notice it if you put one of these fancy covers over the top. Mounted high on a wall? One bill, no gas standing charge, no prospect of gas leaks, solar driven cooling. No need for a gas registered plumber to tinker if you need to. There's lots to like. Principles are good I suppose but be careful of dieing on any particular hill. As someone who pours a chunk of concrete regularly, flies often, has lots of kids, farms beef and occasionally looses patience with stuff and sets it on fire in the yard, I'm all for principles. Principles prevent environmentally savvy types drowning me in my own juices for the good of the planet.

I'm not a fan of putting an ASHP so far away from the house. It's UFH for your garden even with the insulated pipes. Can you not put it closer to the house. They really are not that noisy. If you can get a 300l cylinder in place I would do that. They're only fractionally dearer than a 250l and offer about the best bang for your buck. Remember the larger the DHW cylinder the cooler you can run it, less electricity, less noise from the ASHP.

645 is fine. I would consider putting the shower head on the long wall rather than the short one. It would feel much more comfy to use with the extra elbow room.

Could something be made from insulated metal cladding? I've seen examples of composters as elevated drums on an axle so they can be rotated frequently for agitation.

I had no interest in MVHR initially. It was only when I sat to do some sums on the energy lost through ventilation that I was convinced.

I would consider splitting the wall plate into say a 100x50 and a 75 x 50. You could put the 100x50 directly onto he wall following the bricks and making it level. Then put the 75*50 on top of it. You'd have 25mm wiggle room to ensure the whole lot was square. You could lap joints easily too for more strength.

It's polyethylene foam I think alright. https://www.macropackaging.co.uk/product/closed-cell-polyethylene-foam-polylam-plank-sheets-1200mm-x-2000mm-x-50mm/

Centre each wall plate on the walls. Sit your ceiling joists on these. Sit a second plate on top of the ceiling joists. You can make it dead square to take any irregularity out of the roof. It also makes a very good junction thermally as you won't have to pinch the insulation at the wall roof junction. This is a variation. You don't need the band joist and you will need to strap the top plate or the rafters to the wall. If you are tight for ridge height you can move the top plate further left to drop the rafters.

What was the benefits of standing the studs off the walls? Services?