Iceverge

We had a separate DPC on the external leaf 150mm above external ground level. There's no need for a tray here. Just let the EPS beads fill to the bottom of the cavity.

Just saw now. Will have a look shortly.

I would get this right before going anywhere near a heat pump. I would rather chew my leg off than put PIR in a cavity wall or between roof timbers. Why the combo of EWI and cavity in the new build? I would do one or the other. Why so little EWI? The insuation is a small cost vs the install and render. Wait.........do hear a greasy haired white toothed kingspan salesman boarding a plane..........I think he's off to Marbella for a jaunt on the kooltherm sales he pawned off to you via your architect......

Then you'll have a breeze blowing around the sides of the PIR freezing your floor. Or you'll have a breeze blowing around your bank vault where your bullion used to be that you had to liquidate to spend on gapotape.

Get the best match you can. Dry lay them. See if you can tell the difference. If you can rip up the rest of the old tiles and finish it with the new tiles.

Tape them up and all is well!

You can use airtight tape. Just cut it into lots of little strips.

You could substitute in some walk on glazing.

Lol. I did actually stick them in the kitchen oven pre zinc coat . Cautious of off gassing pre top coat and fearing the wrath of my family I just stuck them into a cardboard box with a small fan heater (closely supervised!!!!) for 15mins. Seemed to do the trick, they only need to be warm and dry.

If it's galvanized you may need to etch prime it to get a key for the paint. It'll peal off otherwise.

Fine until the foam shrinks and the PIR falls out. There was a case of this on Greenbuildingforum a while back .

I had no issues but then I am near a provider. (Ecocel) I've thought about this before. I-joists ripped up the middle would work well. Nail them sideways onto the joists. You could drop OSB/PLY/Hardboard to rest on the flanges to carry the insulation. This would be a great option if done from above. However very tricky from below. I toyed many times with the idea of strips of rigid insulation sandwiched onto studs. Turns out it already exists. However on a renovation of an old property the tiny gain you would have is never worth the hassle.when you do the heat loss sums. It just might get you across the line in a passivhaus project or something.

Correct. Double correct. Plug in fan heater.

If it's mild steel I made some brackets recently. Gave them a run of a wire brush on the angle grinder. Then some brake cleaner as a degreaser. Then put them in the oven to get them up to skin temp and dry them out properly. Then 3 coats of zinc primer. Then 3 coats of an enamel oxide brushed on. They're in a fairly corrosive environment so I hope they'll last ok.

The kingspan salesman gets another trip to Tenerife. 🥺 I'm guessing the spec for the insulation came from your architect? Who i expect in turn copied and pasted it directly out of the Kingspan book of details that "someone" dropped on their desk. Before committing to this I very much suggest you have a look at some other methods that will be easier to build, much cheaper, and perform better. My suggestion would be something like this. Better still ditch the mineral wool and use blown cellulose fibers.

None of the above! Screw timbers ( thickness space dependant, more is better) under the existing joists. Staple a good breather membrane like VP400 underneath. Tape all joints and seal to the walls. Screw 75*25mm battens or similar underneath to keep the membrane in place. Then blow the cavities full of cellulose insulation.

Yes, keep the gap behind the ply facing. To stop screws penetrating the airtight layer. Also it may allow you to run wires more tidily to plant even if you've still got everything else surface mounted. No. A screw in a hole is airtight from the purposes of house building. We didn't make 0.2 as above but 0.31 and we didn't tape any staples or screws. Keep your Ply facing spaced off the airtight layer for this reason with a service cavity. Have a tube of sealant and caulk the holes on blower door test day.

Can you shift your demand times or change to a supplier with TOU tarriffs that match your demand.

Hahah, I'm going to have to apply for an extension for my house to fit my ego after that! Beware I'm probably far more disappointing in person than my ~online dating~ build hub profile suggests. I do like EPS, but mineral wool batts in the wall would be fine too..... However..... Are you dead set on cavity walls? They work well in simple structures however not having full planning drawings for yours I don't know if something else might be a better fit. Can you post your full (deidentified) planning drawings, to let the collective masses decide here how to best make this project work for you.

It's worth investing if there's a leak there. Is the rafter wobbly in any way? It might be worth propping it if it is.

No problem. I'll give you 50p but I must subtract the cost of the stamp from that.

HURRAY!!!!! Interesting, I would love to stick frame a house. Mainly because I just love hammering bits of timber together. There were large aspects of our masonry house I hated with the dust and the hardship that TF avoids. What other method would you like?! Good people are always worth paying. Bad people are worth paying to keep them away. Depends on how fast you are blockwork. One mason built out house with no labourer. Icf Always stuck me as the wrong way around.nsoft on the outside and hard on the inside. Like a Dime bar when what you really need is an Armadillo. TF or masonry I think are the best.

Chimney?

Based in your design constraints a section like this would be much more buildable. No steps in the upstairs. 45 deg roof into a 3 deg section in the middle for sanding seam. likewise with the dormer. 400mm allowed for the walls and roof for plenty of insulation.

In general once stuff is inside the main insualtive layer then it's not worth worrying about extra minute thermal gains like insulating padstones or the like. As i can see you'll have 150mm EPS beads outside your UB so any gains would be very small. I would stop the inner leaf of the wall 100mm short of the external wall and allow the 100mm PIR to oversail the wall and meet the wall EPS beads. This will make a thermally very nice junction. In general I'm not a fan of too much steel work in domestic construction. It's hard to finish and fix to with typical builders tools. I would prefer precast concrete or on site poured lintels for the blockwork sections and gluelams for the roof. They're aesthetically quite nice in my opinion and leaving them on show may be cheaper and easier than building in a UB. In general the more I look at your house I can't but agree with @Gus Potter. There's a lot of obstacles to getting it to the standard you hope. It has the classic hallmarks of something that perhaps began more simple but had bits bolted on to satisfy a desire for something different or with a bit more flair. Then it sounds like planning appeared and imposed some limits that compromised the building. 1 went through 3 sets of planning permissions before we build our house. Each one simpler in turn and it was still a pain as a first time builder to get anywhere close to the standards I wanted with efficiency etc. Would you consider returning to the drawing board and designing out some of the trickier bits like reverse slope dormers and hidden guttering?