JoeBano

It’s a grey area in my eyes as long it complies with the MCS sound assessment. It doesn’t say you need a MCS certification. You need MCS certification for the 7.5k grant which I fully agree with can’t have every cowboy fitting them for what I’ve seen lately on new builds.

Are you planning on using the myson Ivector for cooling in the summer? Love to know how it effective it is, I’m planning a loft conversion hopefully end of this year. I’m going to need some cooling for the hot summer days.

With reduced flow rate isn’t your heat pump going to cycle a lot when just doing hot water? I’m no expect just learning as I’m going but I worked out you will need 44lps for that cylinder size? Noticed with my heat pump (grant aerona3) delta t is normally around 3c

What size cylinder have you got?

How’s the myson Ivector? Would you say it’s a good piece of kit?

I would definitely fit a temperature probe if I could do it again.

Don’t know if this helps, a flow temperature of 38-40c takes my 60mm traditional screed on 100mm kingspan insulation to a floor temperature 27c. I have engineered wood glued down. I sure someone on here will have a more technical answer. Have you got a temperature mixer on the manifold? If have a room stat you could fit a floor probe to override the stat when the floor reaches 27c

Will all my zone on Ufh heating on, the heat pump will my cycle will last 1hour 30mins - 2 hours. My kitchen is south facing with a lot of glass. You can see the solar gain on the neogen it will raise 2c within a hour but my living room north facing temperature will not increase in temperature, I have solid walls in between. I do have a 3 port buffer tank which allows me to heat the living room still, 2 cycles per hour. I don’t look too much at COP I look how much it’s costing me, I’ve averaged £3 a day so far this winter for heating and hot water.

I’m using heatmiser stats, Ufh I have it 0.5c as it take a while for the floor to charge up again. Upstairs rads 0.5c as my flow temperature is normally around 36-37c but if you have a high flow I would have it as 1c. My stats are really a temperature limiter, as my weather compensation is the lowest for my comfort level. With the neogen you can enable enhanced history and keep a tab on temperature levels

Is there a newish study into the effects of short cycling on an inverter driven heat pump short cycling? It’s more a question on my own heat pump. I’ve changed from a 4 port buffer to a 3 port buffer, now I get no temperature loss on the flow, as it stands still getting long run cycles.

You can always fit the UVC in the loft. Seen it done plenty of times

The dream units have been on eBay for the past 4 years. Last time I looked they wasn’t inverter driven so probably cost a fortune to run.

What size is the Ivector?

I was keeping an eye on that myson Ivector on eBay. They are soo expensive! I’ll be interested in the cooling as my house struggles to remove the heat in the hot summer days, I’ve been looking into these units for sometime.

Yes it does just a volt free terminal just been trying to find a switch that works with the IFTTT automation app that links to octopus agile. it’s just fitted a heatmiser heat and cool thermostat that does the switching for me.

I’ve done 2 winter trials with octopus. They tell me the day before when to turn my heat pump off and for how long for. I got £150 credit last winter.

Best thing I did move from a Combi to unvented cylinder, so much better. Most of the high spec houses I work in now days all have cylinders

Yeah rads upstairs. I would do but I’ve got an expensive wooden floor glued down, recommend it can’t go above 27c. I would rather keep it as fail safe incase my 2 port valve sticks open or the relay fail which shuts the heating 2 port valve in hot water mode. The hot water cycle will take this above 27c easily.

Yesterday it was -3c all day here noticed my heat pump was short cycling a lot not really getting any heat downstairs either. My mixer on Ufh was set to 35c and flow temperatures on the heat pump were maxed out at 45c. Set to max on the mixer seem to stop the short cycling floors warmed up nicely.

Low tariff mode is working great by boosting my flow temperatures by 4c in a 3 hour windows just before my octopus agile gets expensive (4-7pm) also have the thermostat set 1c higher while the flow temperature are higher.

I worked on a bungalow couple months back and was having a ashp fitted. The neighbour bedroom window was 2.5m away for the heat pump location. He paid £1400 for a sound assessment, fitted an acoustic fence (same as a normal fence just twice as thick) and fitted mitsubishi ecodan heat pump. The council accepted that.

Mine did this, I got a relay fitted so if the hot water was on it automatically shut the central heating zone valve. On the grant heat pump it does say don’t schedule for the same time.

On my own install, the hardest part was getting everything balanced Ufh radiators 4 port buffer (4 port buffer because my heat pump is oversized) but now it works great. I do most of my heating in the cheap periods using the low tariff mode which’s boosts my flow temperature super cheap and 21c room temperature.

I successfully did this by mistake on my heat pump 😂 was wondering why my hot water kept disappearing.

I’ve got a megaflow cylinder which I thought was a larger coil but I had to reset the integrated expansion tank inside of it the other day I stumbled the coil size inside. I’m sure it was 0.78 corrugated which is slightly different to your normal coil but I haven’t no issues of maintaining dt or issues of warm up time for my household. It’s 179L which is a bit small for my family size but now I’ve it set up for tank temperature it’s been perfect.