Redbeard

@Tricky wrote: "Thanks for the comments. The 100mm celotex insulation was installed last week so no option to change now." Maybe not... Without an outside pic of the insulated shell I cannot be certain, but I guess you have a 37 x 38mm gap on the outside of each stud, and perhaps offcuts filling that gap. If you mark carefully the positions of the studs you could run another layer of PIR on the outside (unless the 6m and 15m dimensions are maxima under Mobile Home law - (later note, just seen a sugg'n that 6.7 x 20m is max so you'd be inside that). Then batten, then clad. I am sure you had checked this already (though I had to check it as I did not know for certain) T'internet says Mobile homes are not required to comply with the Building Regs, with the exception of certain groundwork and connections to mains drainage. Nevertheless it does not mean that insulation to, or in excess of, Bldg Regs standards isn't advisable from a current and future comfort point of view. Accepting that it is too late to do anything about increasing decrement delay you could still 'engineer' significantly more insulation.

What will the roof be? Structure, covering and insulation. Ditto the floor. Do those battens suggest that there may be only 50mm of PIR? I worry that you have a long time to be cold.

Maybe I am missing something, but it seems simpler to me than you feel it is. The WC is forward of that spigot, so there is room between the wall and the connection going into that spigot. Would my idea of elbowing within the wall depth not work? That way the 'Cold water feed for the toilet coming out the wall' won't be coming out of the wall until it's where you want it to be.

Cross-posted with @ProDave

Maybe I am being simplistic or misunderstanding, but if that is a stud wall can you simply not elbow up inside the wall and come out further up?

@AlshamalIf your roof ventilation is at the eaves consider getting your installer to staple some air-tight membrane (best) or scaffold netting tightly under the rafters at low level, so that they can then shove the insulation in to their heart's content without risking blocking the eaves ventilation. It also helps prevent 'wind-wash' or thermal by-pass - cold air getting in between the layers of insulation.

If you are on the wrong side to get to the 'slopey bit' of the latch then that suggests the door opens out towards you. Yes? If so why can you not get a thin wheel in an angle grinder and grind the latch off? Your 'explorations' seem to suggest that the latch mechanism is dead, so no net loss.

Green Building Store fully glazed external door U = 0.85. Cost incl VAT and delivery around £2000 supply only.

Agree with @SimonD. I would definitely go for adhesive *and* mech fixings. Make sure the adhesive is either full coverage or full perimeter bead and 'dobs'. I had a job done for a client and had had the full spec and method statement saying adhesive and mech fixings, only to find the fitters half-way up the wall, 'dry' (mech fixings only).

Sit it on pads, then, even if it is not post and beam. The copy is not great but have a look at http://www.ianwhite.info/THE_SEGAL_METHOD.pdf for the principle. If you are having stud frames rather than post-and-beam you can just span the pad footings with a horizontal 'foundation timber' situated above the splash-up zone. I have built a lot of Segal-style structures and am a rubbish photographer but I may be able to dig out some pics if that might help.

What's the build? Masonry or timber? If timber I'd do it post and beam and sit each post on a 'Walter Segal-style' pad, which could be anything from a paving slab to a paving slab with lois of concrete/crushed rubble below, depending on ground conditions.

What do you mean by a 'regular boiler'? You refer to a difference between a 'regular boiler' and a system boiler, so I think by 'regular' you must mean a combi (instant HW; no cylinder). As a lot of solar-water-heating exponents found in the past you can 'de-combify' a combi, effectively by telling it that the cylinder which you install at a later date is another radiator. As long as the sizing will be right I would, in your position, install another combi now (if I am right that it's a combi you have now) and use it as a system boiler if you want a HWC when you have refurbed.

As ProDave says pics would be good. I'd be looking at height of dpc above surrounding ground level, typical 'splash-up' height in the area (look for 'tide-marks' on neighbouring properties), 'softness' or 'hardness' of the surrounding ground. Have you been in long? Was it fine for years and now isn't? Have any other 'building circumstances' changed recently?

Do you think they leak air? If so do you perhaps have some claim against the manufacturer or installer, and if not, why do you think you need another set? I suspect a channel near the outer edge is more about shedding water tan being another place for draught-stripping. I have windows with a single draught-strip which do not appear to leak, and 3G units with 2 seals on te opening lights which seem tight as a drum.

Sorry @DavidG, the query re location was for @renovator123. Glad the cost comparisons were useful.

Hi, What area are you in? My GBS 5 windows and a door cost £734/m2 supply only this year. Compares with £635/m2 installed in 2014.

If you want permanent I'd have suggested something similar to @Roger440 but not splayed. Cut the slabs in front of the door in line with the joints in the last slab leading up to the brick paviors. Pack up the slabs to meet the cill-top and fit a little upstand (could be stone; could be 'sacrificial' timber) for the edges. Stop the upstand 20mm away from the wall and there's no interference with the render. Agree the temporary fixes will work too.

When I built my shed the Planners wanted the heights measuring from the lowest point - the opposite of some others' experience but perhaps tying in with that of Tough Buttercup. I had to get Planning Permission. They were adamant that my plans would not fall under PD. In my case the higher ground was held back by a retaining wall. Maybe that makes my situation different to others'.

I dream of 18 degrees! Lots of pullovers, and fingerless gloves. Definitely +1 to no silly temps, but at the other end of the scale for less mobile people there is the matter of safety, and potentially hypothermia if they cannot move much. Another argument for proper, sensible schemes of thermal improvement carried out by properly-trained contractors.

I agree with @ProDave, I wonder if you mean Building Control, not Planning. Certainly a list of outstanding works sounds like Building Control. That is, however, as much help as I can be as I don't know about Scotland and Building Warrants. The 'universal cure-all' this side of the border seems to be an indemnity insurance with a one-off premium. Perhaps the biggest risk, if the 'cure-all' exists in Scotland, is that the buyer may see an opportunity to ask for a price-drop as well. (But I am a hardened cynic, so perhaps ignore that possibility if you wish!)

1. Almost certainly 2. No. 3. Yes. And perhaps ask them why they thought it was reasonable to leave the job unfinished. Was there no damp *whatsoever* before the window swap? If that is the case you may wish to get a quote for remedial work and forward that to the window co. I am not au fait with attaching pics on this site but probably shrinking them as much as poss will help. Edit: Just realised this was 3 years ago. Had you not noticed the gaps till now? The installer could (a) say 'too late', (b) argue that had they been informed immediately after the installation the damage you may now ask them to repair would either not have occurred or would be less severe

We tried 3 of the things for cats, and perhaps some of them were deaf as well as incontinent, but no obvious sign that they ever worked. I never heard the device but my kids did!

Agree with OP re WF and parge coat, and would encourage you to get a WUFI calc. I would encourage you to get a WUFI calc even if you were going for PIR/anything else IWI. My 'route to wood-fibre' is based on concerns re long-term integrity of VCLs. If I use a method without a VCL the vCL cannot be compromised and fail to do its job. Of course we don't have to agree with it (there are certainly parts I would not agree with) but the latest BEIS Best Practice guidance on solid wall insulation recommends that where 'hard-to-the-wall' internal insulation is done a vapour-open insulant must be used. Where a vapour-closed insulant is used they recommend a ventilated cavity (which, if the cross-ventilation is good, makes the wall behave like a vented loft, where a 'howling gale' purges the space behind into which any errant WV may escape).

I.C is generally more likely with IWI. PIR is not used so much for EWI, although I know some have used it. Have you thought of using 70mm graphite EPS? The issue you could have is condensation on the inside of the outer skin, as you will have cooled it down with the 100 Rockwool. What you could end up with is the wall equivalent of a Hybrid Warm Roof (some insulation between the timbers and some on the outside). The rough rule-of-thumb with hybrid warm roofs is that 66% of the R value should be on the outside and 33% between the timbers. Your 100 Rockwool and 70 gEPS would not cut this particular mustard.

No wonder they call that lay-up 'super-advanced'. Read the first 3 lines: 1,120mm of PIR will give you 0.09W/m2K... Not as good as I thought, and a possible interstitial condensation risk?