Redbeard

Sorry @DavidG, the query re location was for @renovator123. Glad the cost comparisons were useful.

Hi, What area are you in? My GBS 5 windows and a door cost £734/m2 supply only this year. Compares with £635/m2 installed in 2014.

If you want permanent I'd have suggested something similar to @Roger440 but not splayed. Cut the slabs in front of the door in line with the joints in the last slab leading up to the brick paviors. Pack up the slabs to meet the cill-top and fit a little upstand (could be stone; could be 'sacrificial' timber) for the edges. Stop the upstand 20mm away from the wall and there's no interference with the render. Agree the temporary fixes will work too.

When I built my shed the Planners wanted the heights measuring from the lowest point - the opposite of some others' experience but perhaps tying in with that of Tough Buttercup. I had to get Planning Permission. They were adamant that my plans would not fall under PD. In my case the higher ground was held back by a retaining wall. Maybe that makes my situation different to others'.

I dream of 18 degrees! Lots of pullovers, and fingerless gloves. Definitely +1 to no silly temps, but at the other end of the scale for less mobile people there is the matter of safety, and potentially hypothermia if they cannot move much. Another argument for proper, sensible schemes of thermal improvement carried out by properly-trained contractors.

I agree with @ProDave, I wonder if you mean Building Control, not Planning. Certainly a list of outstanding works sounds like Building Control. That is, however, as much help as I can be as I don't know about Scotland and Building Warrants. The 'universal cure-all' this side of the border seems to be an indemnity insurance with a one-off premium. Perhaps the biggest risk, if the 'cure-all' exists in Scotland, is that the buyer may see an opportunity to ask for a price-drop as well. (But I am a hardened cynic, so perhaps ignore that possibility if you wish!)

1. Almost certainly 2. No. 3. Yes. And perhaps ask them why they thought it was reasonable to leave the job unfinished. Was there no damp *whatsoever* before the window swap? If that is the case you may wish to get a quote for remedial work and forward that to the window co. I am not au fait with attaching pics on this site but probably shrinking them as much as poss will help. Edit: Just realised this was 3 years ago. Had you not noticed the gaps till now? The installer could (a) say 'too late', (b) argue that had they been informed immediately after the installation the damage you may now ask them to repair would either not have occurred or would be less severe

We tried 3 of the things for cats, and perhaps some of them were deaf as well as incontinent, but no obvious sign that they ever worked. I never heard the device but my kids did!

Agree with OP re WF and parge coat, and would encourage you to get a WUFI calc. I would encourage you to get a WUFI calc even if you were going for PIR/anything else IWI. My 'route to wood-fibre' is based on concerns re long-term integrity of VCLs. If I use a method without a VCL the vCL cannot be compromised and fail to do its job. Of course we don't have to agree with it (there are certainly parts I would not agree with) but the latest BEIS Best Practice guidance on solid wall insulation recommends that where 'hard-to-the-wall' internal insulation is done a vapour-open insulant must be used. Where a vapour-closed insulant is used they recommend a ventilated cavity (which, if the cross-ventilation is good, makes the wall behave like a vented loft, where a 'howling gale' purges the space behind into which any errant WV may escape).

I.C is generally more likely with IWI. PIR is not used so much for EWI, although I know some have used it. Have you thought of using 70mm graphite EPS? The issue you could have is condensation on the inside of the outer skin, as you will have cooled it down with the 100 Rockwool. What you could end up with is the wall equivalent of a Hybrid Warm Roof (some insulation between the timbers and some on the outside). The rough rule-of-thumb with hybrid warm roofs is that 66% of the R value should be on the outside and 33% between the timbers. Your 100 Rockwool and 70 gEPS would not cut this particular mustard.

No wonder they call that lay-up 'super-advanced'. Read the first 3 lines: 1,120mm of PIR will give you 0.09W/m2K... Not as good as I thought, and a possible interstitial condensation risk?

With similar misgivings I laid some for my son at his request. They looked quite ... OK. He was very happy with them and I guess I could learn to live with them! Ours were from Wickes, and I think I have a box over, so I'll take a look and report back on details.

Until the latest revision it was very clear. The roof U value target was split into 'at rafter level' and on top of first floor ceilings (cannot remember the exact wording for the latter). At rafter level it was 0.18 and 'on the flat' 0.16. Now there is no distinction made so one has to assume that the target for both is 0.16. The fact that a ceiling at rafter level (a skeiling) is a ceiling has not, in my view, changed.

@Russdl, what was the minus 12.6 degree 'item'? How cold is it in Salisbury at the moment? Had a guess or two but the siting (above a bedroom) seems illogical for my guess.

Lots who aren't lads too! SE = Structural Engineering.

For fiddly little cut-outs you can do a lot worse than a bread-knife. The special insulation (hand)saws you can buy are effectively just that. You can buy insulation blades for reciprocating saws but I challenge you to stop the blade waggling (i.e. your cut looks great on 'your' side of the board and is say 50mm out at the back!). I gather Festool do something wonderful but I am afraid i have no details. Yes you can fill with expanding foam, but the lambda value is not (AFAIK) the same, so keep it to a minimum. However if you try to fill really narrow joints (say less than 3mm wide) you will probably find yopur foam only goes a few mm deep. Do some test-pieces. Good luck!

Very much agree with @ProDave. While the buyer may accept that it complies (or more correctly is exempt from some bits) it does not alter the fact that the thinking behind an exempt conservatory is that it is effectively 'outside' (hence the external doors between it and the house and the separately-controlled heating (so that it does not act as a heat-dump for the C htg). It will still be cold/expensive to heat and (depending on the orientation) possibly blazing hot at times too. Yes, it does not fill you with confidence when a seller does not know the difference between a lambda value (W/mK) and a U value (W/m2K).

It may not be that great, as there are other views 'out there' on t'internet. Someone I know had this done, although they also had no separating doors, which was definitely non-compliant. As I said, *as far as I can see* there are no stipulations, but others may have other views. I hope you can get it sorted to the satisfaction of your buyer.

Hi and welcome. Your BCO is right. All you need is here: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/conservatories/building-regulations There is no stipulation AFAICS as to what you can put in a 'conservatory'. Therefore the presence of kitchen paraphernalia is immaterial as long as you have the compliant doors, glazing, elecs and independednt heating 'system'.

Ah, sorry, read that too quickly. You are saying they have ignored the spec of 120 and fitted 100? If so ask them to fit as per the spec which will get you 0.18. 100mm won't, unless there's something else not listed.

** Ventilation externally of course if you do *not* insulate the flue! We did both insulation to the flue and IWI.

Yes, I poured it down and capped the flue. You could ventilate externally and apply IWI to the full chimney breast.

Most PIR insulants are credited with a lambda of 0.022W/mK. 0.12(m)/0.022 = R = 5.45. 1/R = U = 0.183W/m2K. You can also take into account any othere elements which don't have cold ventilation air flowing through them, so that's the ceiling, deck board, EPDM, internal and external surface resistances. All that should just get you 0.18. Assume you already have Bldg Regs approval (prior to the June changes (if you are in England).

If you are happy that it is dry you could insulate from the top with vermiculite or EPS beads. I did this for a client 5 years ago and no issues. The flaw I find with ventilating unused flues as per DIY guides is that you introduce potentially warm moist air into the flue where it can potentially condense as the flue cools near the bedroom ceiling line.

Got one in Sheffield a few weeks ago. Search IBC Sheffield Ebay. Co. is in Darnall. Not *that* far from Chesterfield!