Construction Channel

It sounds like you want to do both 2 and 3 to me so why not give it a bash. Have you considered using home grown stalagtites somewhere in the build?

Why would you do 2 or 3?

Not really. Assuming that is the look you are going for.

Whatever look right. Whats going on the reveals? (cladding/render) Don't forget whatever you put on the reveals will make the "horns" look longer.

Would that make Clive a turpituder or a turpitudist?

My guess would be about 2 foot ?

Agreed. In the past we've made a batten that screws into the faceplate holes. Screw that batten to the wall either side to keep things flush and level. Then foam it

I take it Debbie was at home at the time then

That does seem to tick most of my box's......

I suppose the last 2 responses lead to the question. Could anyone reccomend a stand alone boiling tap?

I was going by the item description on ebay. Which I just re read and it looks like it's only a 1 Yr warrantee on the boiling unit if the filter is installed but a 10yr on the tap itself. I'd never considered drinking softened water if I'm honest. We've always had a separate hard drinking water tap at home

You need to add the £42 filter if you want the warrantee.

I would have said that's a marine fish. Lots more expensive to set up and maintain. But if I were to keep fish again its definately the route I would go.

Just before it happened. Did you think "I bet that's going to slip and go through my finger" but carried on regardless...

Unless it was labelled it could just be a crease on your photocopy. ( no one in their right mind would assume that but without annotation your argument is weak) Listen to a bosh. Go to the pub. Talk to the barmaid about her holidays. You're not in a good frame of mind right now and venting your frustrations on us isn't going to help anyone. Deal with the Dpm and ffl line tomorrow with a hangover. Best of luck with the builder. Don't forget it's your wallet that is really in charge.

EVERYONE IS TRYING TO HELP! (with the possible exception of Onoff that is clearly just winding you up but I'm sure he did try in the beginning) I have read most of this thread and I really don't understand what's going on. If the empty footings were passed by the BCO then I'm sure they will be fine. I assume it's the top of your footings that you think is the wrong height? If so I still wouldn't worry as this can be corrected by laying more courses to bring it back to the height you were expecting. Same with the oversite (the area inside the footings) this can easily be altered by adding more or less hardcore. To help accurately we need either photos of whats worrying you or accurate diagrams. I'm not fussed if your builder is happy with what you provided. To try and help from the other side of a different country I need more details, preferably all referring back to a fixed datum. (existing FFL is usually a good one) and it would be even better to have a photo of the whole area so we can see if things in the surrounding area may be affecting it. The bit about not being able to have a conversation with the builders really does worry me. Although you don't want to hear it. You need to get things pinned down now. In writing or preferably on a drawing. If needs be it will be cheaper and easier for you to get another builder to carryon the work from this stage than it will be later on in the build.

Have you considered coving?

Those footings have been there for a long time and probably arnt planning anything drastic in the next few weeks. A lot of these questions could easily be solved by just asking the guy doing it. I wouldn't worry yourself about the concrete. It's not exactly holding up much. It's also common practice to add a lot more water than you've had if you need to mix to flow anywhere.

I would probably reschedule if I could

I still have that logo as the background on my second monitor ?

That's like saying I only found Jessica Nigri's channel because I wanted to make cos play outfits but no one ever seems to belive me

I was taught to put the rolls of lead in the groove the other way round, horizontal as such. Then beat them in with the side of a raking chisel so they expand. Could be wrong but it's how I was taught. Other lead things would be 6" of lap and max of 1.5m sections but it looks like you have that bit under control Also you can get "lead mastic". dunno if it more flexible or why it would be better than others but they do make one and it's probably cheaper than Ct1

I'm sorry but most of that is wrong in so many ways. There is no reason that foundations would be any different for TF over brick. Foundations are technically just a gap filler to get down to stable ground. TF with a brick skin is what I built because it's maintenance free outside and allowed me an almost normal wall thickness and allowed me to easily exceed regs. A TF being digested by microbes will only happen if you build it badly. Climate change smimate change. Its all about how much you want to spend up front/ on bills indefinitely Weather tight before winter is rubbish. You just need to cover it up. It took me well over a year to get mine water tight TF is a lot easier for amateurs than brick and block. Any idiot can cut sticks the same length and point a nail gun at them. Laying bricks is a skill

IMHO there are 2 issues with brick and block if you are not house bashing for a profit. 1- it takes a while to get good enough to lay face brickwork at any sort of speed. Which means you need to employ bricklayers. 2- apart from having to have a huge cavity to get a decent u value. You will be expecting the aforementioned brickies to put in your insulation to a good standard. Its different for block and block as both faces will eventually get covered with something so the finish is less critical and could possibly be taken on by an amature if they have the time and basic level of skill

- lead - 20mm