Construction Channel

all ordered, I got a bunch of spare fittings aswell just to get free delivery also went for the AAV in the end as it was cheap and I saw it on the list....

as I said at the beginning, you need to make answering the easier option, text them at 8am explaining what you want to talk to them about, then ring every 20 mins, if they haven't answered by lunchtime they have blocked you and you need to either find someone else or knock on their door

Mine. It came from bp plastics.

good enough for me, I'll get it ordered tomorrow, Thanks for your help

Done....Easy will that glue be ok to use on the current fittings I have if I rough them up a bit or do I need to change them to solvent weld fittings? it's not anymore, that stack will be getting boxed in next to the throne now all the way to the ceiling so access can be easy from the cupboard under the stairs or the boxing. on that note whats wrong with this? http://www.drainage-channel.co.uk/category-6092/SD200.html anti-vacuum trap...done

Tbh we’ve never pointed between them, just laid them as described above with a dry joint. I’m not saying it’s right but it’s what we do.

Well Faye has come home and everything except the shower head and the stair wall has moved no need for the bend in the shower waste pipe now. Also I assume it will be ok the have the bath and basin on the same 2” pipe? If so I might as well bump the shower up to the same 2” so I’m not messing about with different pipe sizes. women hey,...... TBF she only said could we make the entrance wider so I moved everything to accommodate ?

I haven’t got that far yet. I don’t want it to be pothetic. But I also can’t afford that much so a nice middle ground will suffice. Just so you know there will be a separate non rain head as well but I’m a long way from messing about with those bits at the moment. Thanks for your help.

Ok. But what about never being able to get back to the adaptor? Just user the rubber adaptor, box that section off so the concrete stays away from it, and make it accessible from under the stairs/ behind the bath panel? Or swap the lower section for a true solventable boss. And concrete all around it? Also 40mm ok or stick to 50mm. It’s only a 2 m run?

That isn’t the actual fitting but they both have that size hole. Do they not make a solvent reducer for that sized hole? this is the actual fitting at the bottom that is pushed directly into a swept bend from the underground pipe tbh it doesn’t need to get concreted in as it’s all behind the bath so I could box around it but I’ll happily change for solvent if it’s easier. Next question why 2x 45s. why not just turn the trap?

The time has come where @Onoffis about to get some competition on duration of a thread I am finally at the stage where I need to get my shower waste pipes in before I put the mesh down for the UFH. So far I have painted on the floor where the walls waste and shower head will go. Iv also marked out where i will be forming the “shower area” my question to you all today is what size pipe would you recommend for the shower waste? The branch I have sticking out of the insulation has 63mm holes in ready to be drilled in the sides of it. Should I just stick with that size or reduce it down? If so why? also where I need to put a bend in the pipe would you recommend I put a 45 which will be closer to the trap. Or put a 30 further down the run? Once again why? Iv Iv got some pretty dark pictures where the yellow is the shower area. The lower red dot is the waste. The higher red dot will be a ceiling mounted rain head. All the red hashing and tape at the bottom will be “under the stairs” hence why the head is so far out in the room. Any questions please ask. Obviously any help would be appreciated. ground floor plan dimensions.pdf

I told my carpentry teacher that he couldn't do much about it as he already had me marking other students work when I completed the course just over a year early...... now he's a flat roofer, TBF my paperwork isn't worth the paper its written on, that's also the reason I have no respect for other "tradesmen" until I have worked alongside them.

I think the issue is in the building world most of the time the customer won’t see the work completed until they get home from work. At which point they think it’s a good idea to call the person running the job and discuss things (I used to run jobs but not any more for this exact reason.) I used to get calls at ridiculous times. They generally don’t understand that we have lives too and finish work at 5 like everyone else. By all means send me a text and I probably will reply that evening but I will do it when I’m not eating dinner/ watching a good bit/ having a bunk up,....... or call me within the hours you are paying me for. The other difference would be that “usually” white collar workers have got a secretary/PA to fob people off until they are ready. We don’t. We just have a misses that moans at us for never stopping work when we do rarely answer the phone out of hours.

Bit late as always but 25mm is nothing. We often gain 100mm just to make it work bricks. If we were building in 9” blocks we would think of gaining 225mm. As above it’s the ridge that matters. But then again it depends where you measure the ridge from. There is a good chance my house is higher than it should be but I forgot to take a picture before I took it down so I just tried my hardest to make it look sensible

8. That’s shed felt not piggery felt 9. The roughness will trap water behind your counterbattens and rot them 10. The lap will cause a lump in your roof. 11. It will make your slates a complete waste of money 12. The sweating in point 3 will cause condensation inside and damage all your valuable tools along with rotting the ply 13. Everyone that sees along with everyone here will know you’ve done it and think less of you 14. Because peter told you not to 15. Because I’m telling you not to

FWIW this is the one we use. Can’t complain but I assume most are much the same. https://www.screwfix.com/p/p-c-cox-ultrapoint-pointing-grouting-gun/79243 other retailers are available.

Well I missed this one. The answer when pointing bricks/slabs is to use more feb and less water and whisk the living crap out of it. Also empty the tube and refill. Don’t just put more in on top or it just keeps compacting and will jam. But In this case you probably do want to use resin. Heavily whisked mortar will never be very “strong” no matter how much cement you use as you will have introduced so much air. Sorry if I’m too late hth Ed

Lol I meant Faye. First thing I do on a job is find the customers number and block it. ?

Another point to make about text/ WhatsApp is it gives the recipient a chance to construct a response. The main reason I don’t answer the phone after 5 from anyone related to work is they almost undoubtably want me to do something. I find it very hard to say no, so on phone calls I used to find myself getting into things I don’t want to do just because I don’t want to be rude. By text at least I get a chance to ask the boss / think of a nice way of saying no.

You need to make it easier for them to just answer the phone, E.g pester them enough that they give in, In this case, you are lucky, you try getting in contact with labourers / apprentices, I would add in my case you need to call between 8-5, 5.01 its text or nothing at all.

My money says it’s ipa. Jeremy is the man to ask about chemicals.

I think I went for roofing superstore in the end. What are you nailing into? Essentially you want as long as possible without piercing the felt. I had 25 mm battens on 10mm counter battens so went for 32mm

If you put sticky flashband on your house I will never talk to you again.

I think F&B is one of the only paints allowed for use on listed/ heritage work. Which is why they can charge what they like. But between you and me. Our old decorator used to keep one can just for this purpose. He just kept filling it up with cheaper, easier to use alternatives.

Every decorator I know hates the stuff. I have never understood why anyone would want to pay so much for the name on a paint can. The decorator we currently use uses a dulux alternative iirc and he said it’s better in almost every way.