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So it's ok to replace the filters with a different type? In which case I'll not be concerned if a machine is supplied with G3's. Though presumably each machine and installation may be a bit different...

MVHR is another area that I'm starting on the steep learning curve of, and have been absorbing lots of great info from this forum and browsing MVHR and duct specs. So, first newbie question, how important is the filter type supplied with MVHR units? Most I've seen are G3 or G4, some with F7 optional. From googling, G4 is a finer filter, but is likely to be more restrictive than G3. But in practical terms which is better, or does it make little difference?

So, if I understand this right.... there seem to be lots of gullys like this one (rectangular one below) where by the tanking/tray is sealed onto the flange around the outside. I understand that if the grouting between tiles fails then the water is contained in the tanking, but it can not drain into the gully over the lip. Unlike in this white mcalpine one ( 2nd image), where the tanking seals onto the round flange. Is it ok for the stray water to be contained and just evaporate out in time, or worth fitting a gully designed to drain the water away?

Yes, you've explained that we'll enough for me to understand, thanks. Yes that's a shower. I had given some consideration to what would be needed to convert to a wet room in the future, so may as well put a wet room gully in from the start. AAV. Ok, I'll put a fitting in for one under the bath, or does it need to be higher up above spill over level? I think heights should be ok. 150mm from FFL to outside ground level, then min 300mm to top of pipe, 110mm dia pipe gives 560. Need 450 so there's some allowance for fall and depth of gully.

Direct to IC more like this. By the way, is a rest bend needed if just for sinks and basins, or can an ordinary elbow be used? I know regs say 200mm rad min, but that's shown on the bottom of a stack.

That's a good point about collecting crud. However, if I put in BIGT's they'll end up like this with pipe through floor slab (110mm shown here, but same effect if 40 or 50mm):

I think the original plan was to run the waste through the wall straight into the back inlet of the back inlet gully (so not exposed), but looking at my section and detail views this is in the middle of the slab, which makes BIGT's even less appealing. 110mm to the IC it is.

Folks, can anyone shed some light on whether a BIGT is really needed? Seems simpler to me to just run 110mm straight to an IC. Am I missing something?

OK, good point re the stub stacks, though i'm happy enough to get everything aligned. Yes I agree on external 40mm pipework, don't want any visible. How about this for an alternative? As before, blue line are 110mm below slab, green 50mm in insulation. 50mm connected onto toilet 110mm with a short boss connector. I take it's better practice to run 110mm below slab for the WHB, bath etc than 50mm in insulation?

So I'm trying to figure out the neatest and easiest way to arrange the waste drains from one part of our build from a bathroom and ensuit. I'd like to minimise the IC's in the lower part of the drawing below as they're in a driveway, and like a lot of folk on here I'm not keen of exposed external pipework. First drawing here BC happy with, but I think would require an additional IC as four inlets coming in on one side? Two alternative options here, there are probably many more, maybe betters ways to do it. Green lines 50mm buried in the insulation, blue lines 110mm. By the way floor make up form top down is: 50mm screed, 170 PIR, 150mm concrete slab, DPM, sand, hardcore etc Please let share your thoughts and suggestions on these or other options, what's the best way to do it? Thanks.

Ok thanks, I'll price up the spray foam. So any recommendations on purlin size, 5m span, 1m pitch.

Ok. And then seal the edges at the wall plate so there's no ventilation? These sound like gd options to price up.

Hi folks Planning ahead my garage which will have a curved corrugated roof, but wondering about a couple of aspects. Below is the concept, purlins at approx 1m pitch, with a 5m span. 1. How best to avoid condensation on the inside? A membrane could be installed under the corrugated sheeting, above the purlins, though presumably a sarking board would be needed to stop it sagging between pulins causing water to get trapped? Is a vent at the top possible/necessary? 2.Any suggestions purlin sizes? Thanks.

10kg/m2 did the trick, BC happy with that added in. Thanks for the replies.

So is there a max distance for an external vent to be away from the house/toilet?

Hi folks. I need underground rainwater drains to cross over the foul water drain in a few places, which is at the same level . Does the below suggestion look ok or would it need additional rodding points? Could be up to about 15m to the next inspection chamber. Thanks.

How about foamglas, would that be acceptable?

Hi Temp. Are there official rules or laws that can be looked up to verify this: For example, on a government website etc, do you or anyone know where these 'certain rules' can be found?

I've specified the following on my plans regarding stud walls, of which there only a few in our otherwise block build house plan: • Where stud walls are provided between a bedroom and kitchen / utility / bathroom / en-suite or living room then provide a min 38x75mm timber studs at 400mm centres with minimum 25mm mineral wool quilt suspended in void. Building control have come back asking me to 'specify density of mineral wool used for stud walls'. Any advice on density to specify? Thanks

Hey folks, I'm pondering whether I should buy a cheap laser level. Primarily for setting levels while on my own outside for sheds and out buildings, range of up to about 8m (I've borrowed an optical level, but this require 2 people). I've no experience of these devices, so a few questions: -Can a 'interior' rated level be used outside at all? -Do the cheap detectors that can be bought for £30 on ebay detect the cheap internal lasers? -Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.

Thanks folks, I'll put a key on drawing and list out spec per room.

Just starting into doing the electrical plans so that I have something to give electricians to quote on. I've found these symbols in t'internet as free CAD downloads. Are they the current correct ones to use for UK electricians? Thanks,

If a property has planning permission granted for a replacement dwelling, what is the situation re capital gains tax if the property (which is a the sole PRR of it's owner) is gifted to a close family member? I understand that without the planning permission the situation is relatively simple, but with valid planning permission does this change the situation at all?

Certainly sounds tedious to get a gd airtight layer... Would a sprayed in foam insulation along the yellow line help, either in addition to a membrane or work on its own?

So, would a silver sand/snowcrete/lime render need any maintenance or re-coating?