Nickfromwales

"I'm not a smart man, Jenny"

FFS

If I’m buying an HRC pump, and fitting it, with power and controls, then I’d be using it to its fullest advantage. Not just using it for one single outlet (if a new build and you can get insulted HRC pipework in with ease anyways). Get the basins and kitchen sink on the HRC and you’ll never look back.

It’s called trying to help. Can’t say we didn’t try.

Ask the stair company to encompass this so the interface with the stairs is seamless?

“Use the force, Luke……”

Yup. I use it all the time, totally different beast. The only control you need with foam is your trigger finger. Part fill voids, walk away, add more as necessary. After a few trial runs you’ll become one with the foam and wastage / trimming will be minimal; don’t expect to not have to do at least some trimming etc, obvs.

just cut it after it dries?

Yes, he gave an interesting stab at us over that foolish assumption. Who’s have known the cooker and cooking utensils lived outside. I was going to post this, but I fear someone may like it and then I’ll get bullied for that. He has a heating system, it works, it won’t get used. At least the house will dry out in the summer. 🤐

Can be cleaned as you go if just using PVA?

You won’t see the ply as the rest of the floor covering comes up way higher than that. You’re very brave putting SLC straight down onto the chipboard, but if someone says they’ll warranty the job without even a 3.6mm (aka 4mm) ply binder then it’s on their head I guess. I’ve never laid anything directly onto particle boards, ever, but I have had lots of insurance work from others who did so.

Have a look at the Grundfos Comfort pump folks. "Most", maybe, which means you need to spend more time looking and reading Manifolds at the plant room only. This is how you delete the large bore dead legs at source. If you have "manifolds everywhere" then these will need to be fed from 22mm and will be the opposite to the solution of reducing dead legs.

Slow down..... This. Easy roof are another. Panel sizes change faster than the tray manufacturers can keep up with, and then they have to go for MCS certification which takes even more time. If you want contact details for a very good installer, ping me a PM. He can tell you what fits into what etc, and then you can go decide.

Another one for the free 1hr chat I offered you, lol. You are a tough cookie to crack....aka stubborn. Same here.

This is what pays my bills. So few people get this properly aligned before breaking ground. Grab this with both hands, it's just so much less stress. Watch the in's and out's, as most fill the space with pipe and forget it has to get back to the manifold somewhere.

I can't even imagine relying on the self adhesive to stay put during the pour. In the pic above, I gas nailed the feck out of each and every rail, and then went around with some P-clips where the pipe still refused to stay put.

Ok, so you may want to go for 12mm plywood everywhere else upstairs, and drop back to 6mm at the threshold of the bathroom doorway. That'll allow you the 'good job of it' plywood layer, and then a 6mm deficit for you to install a mat and some electric heating mat, submerged in SLC (use Mapei LINK as it has fibres), and then your LVT will be flush from the hallways to the bathroom floor. Everything needs priming, expect @Pocster, he's already primed to the hilt. Brush some primer / water solution over the floor and UFH immediately before mixing the SLC, as you need to lay 'wet on wet' here for success. Add 1/4 pint of water to the SLC right before you throw it onto the floor, after you mix it to their instructions.

He's a man of many words, mostly curious ones...............perhaps he should lay off the Stella's a bit

That cut was sheer laziness!

Great minds lol.....

I've lifted quite a few failed floors, and the most I've seen is some darkening of the foil, nothing more severe, as the side effect of the screed going down onto bare foil covered PIR. I assume any off-gassing would be happening only during the curing process, with maybe a tiny amount thereafter (if any). The biggest benefit of using the membrane with dry screed is to have markers to use to lay the pipe to. Makes life a lot easier, but I use the PIR that comes with the 100mm lines on it mostly, and favour dry screed, so not really needed afaic; (if liquid, then it's needed, yes).

https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/ultra-tile-fix-proprimer-advanced-polymer-primer?msclkid=9ae67650c99f1ca414e81ff48b4305ea&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%3A Pro Tiler Tools&utm_term=4585925567009231&utm_content=1.1 All Products - Pro Tiler Tools Most tile places will sell this or similar. Use it neat on the underside of the try, it may take a lot, and then on the floor dilute by 25% with water and get the deck sopping wet. Leave for 15 mins for the surface to saturate, then buff back off any excess with a sponge or tea-towel etc. Don't let it dry completely before sticking the tray down, tacky at most. Butter the floor, butter the underside of the tray, and then apply a notched bed to the buttered floor, and away to go. Aim for a consistency like clotted cream. What's the make up of the rest of the bathroom floor around the tray? Plywood and tiles? UFH mat to go in? Best result would be if you glue and screw 6mm plywood down onto the entire floor area, and then stick the tray down on that. Is it exposed particle board (caber) or Egger? If Egger (laminated) then you'll defo need to ply first.

I've begun insulating everything, just for belt and braces, but just 9mm thick wall on colds. For any long-ish runs, it'll always be tepid as the amount of water to run to fill a glass will be the same as the dead leg of cold from the stopcock to the outlet. The only way to get cold drinks is to run the tap until your tepid is all down the plughole, insulation won't do anything for this.

Why did you say "almost certainly"...... Living this way will shorten a persons life.

Shhhhhh. You'll spoil the surprise.