Nickfromwales

How long has it been like this?

Hydraulic resistance is a law of physics though?

Sorry. This is poor advice. Hydraulic resistance, aka the path of least resistance, play a huge role here. Leaving them all wide open will leave the issue to remain. It needs to be balanced, end of. I suggest the OP tries my suggested cure and reports back.

I’ve done a few projects with these cathedral type aspects, and have supported the clients with lighting design / electrical installation etc. Check out plaster-in up lights; I’ve used Tornado lighting and the results have been great. Lots of light but no obvious source or offending lightbulbs to stare directly at. For this client I installed 4 small surface mounted uplights at the base of each ‘spine’ and then you’ll see the pockets along each wall which is where I fitted the plaster-in units. Some other examples for your information.

@Gus Potter Just got to the hotel, pint of Neck Oil slipping down a treat. Thanks again for providing my bedtime reading. If I can stay awake…..hell of a long day today but getting there now, thank feck!

Happy days

Stainless from Telford, ditch the hideous suggestion of sacrificial anodes (🤢🤮) and enjoy a long happy life, you and your UVC. I’ve only ever seen one stainless UVC ‘pop’ catastrophically, and that was installer error. Your installer is a wise man, reward him with hot bacon and cold beer.

Cut some strips of XPS to give some thermal break? https://gb-home.co.uk/products/insulation-boards-xps-under-floor-heating-thermal-6mm-10mm-20mm-30mm?variant=39814976995405&country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21193699419&gbraid=0AAAAApWtJjx38HziVW3HhIEbeXyiDe0yZ&gclid=CjwKCAjw_fnFBhB0EiwAH_MfZngO4IA5zvonhpp8uS3AgAxJJrg1r7kJT4xwhIwhEav0kHkFrMzqVhoCR-IQAvD_BwE

If the WC pipe drops down, and then disappears underground, then you may have to provision for rodding access at the rear of the WC, if the BCO is the most pedantic git on earth. Just tell then the lid to the boxing in is removable and you can rod down there, by using a T with a rodding eye at the outlet of the pan instead of a bend. Then box the lot in and enjoy your life.

B Regs will tell you that you 100% defo do NOT need an AAV, if the invert is <1300mm from the pan outlet to the bottom of the manhole it connects to. Furthermore, you wouldn't benefit from fitting one anyways, as the long horizontal run is a natural air break; this means no vacuum can occur so no air needs admitting.

Just close down the 2 or 3 rads nearest to the boiler, by around 20%, and see what results that yields.

Ah, yes! I read it as they are creating a warm roof, but you're right it's already warm. Well spotted chap!! 50 lashes for me.

Tried moving them about on my phone. Will tidy later on the desktop 👍

Because I am super-amazing. You can thank me with beer. 🍻

Delete it and put an AAV on that stack. There’s a deviation you can call upon, if your BCO is amenable, for 1:5 or 1:10 rule, where if you have neighbouring properties which all vent the network to atmosphere, then you can be given a green light to not have to also vent the network. The SVP isn’t for you, it’s to vent the network btw.

You delete that DPC and run the DPM up the face of the skirt insulation upstand. Basically just treat the job as if that inner leaf of masonry had never existed. Remove the lot, down to the same level as the B&B deck, and fly the insulation all the way in to meet the outer leaf of masonry. If UFH, don't forget the 'thermal' expansion skirting that goes on to absorb expansion of the screed.

Similar to this job.

You remove the inner course of blocks. Place insulation vertically up against the inside face of the outer course of blocks (as an upstand) and then run the insulation and screed to meet the upstand.

5 screws per 600mm board along the joist, so with joists at 600mm o/c you'd be using 20 screws per 2400x600 board.

For the sun-baked sides you could cover with visqueen.

Hell no! 👎👎👎👎👎👎

I do 5 of 5.0 x 50mm. One each end, about 50mm in, one in the middle, then one in each gap in between. Fully threaded screws can leave the deck boards and the joists separated, but still allow you to countersink the screw head in, thinking they’ve pulled together. If you look at the tip of the screw you’ll see a self cutting slot in the threads, which acts like a pilot cutter. A bit of weight behind the impact and these will shoot in with ease. I defo wouldn’t use 4.0 screws as they’re very skinny and can snap easily.

They over-egged the shit out of a project of mine previously, and cost the client a lot of unnecessary expense. The issue is that these 'giants' stomp about and stipulate things and folk just take it for granted that their requests / demands are kosher, but sadly the majority of private are pretty hopeless. I'd stick with LABC as they're usually more grounded as it's not about self-preservation or perpetuation of their companies commercial future.

You have to grab hold of both the negative and the positive of the same string of the DC feed to get zapped btw. But if you do get zapped then there's no coming back from that, as it will be a one-time pass to Jesus-land. Fitting the aux rotary isolator will always be my default, but it is also handy for changing cable disciplines; from strings off the roof into SWA for eg, where the DC needs to travel some distance internally to get to the plant room / inverter location. We have these in attic / eave spaces on most installs. In the real world, this is a very isolated risk we are discussing here, and you pay less attention to the tumble drier which is more likely (statistically) to burst into flames sporadically.