Nickfromwales

200 mile drive for some battens? Is Nicole Shirtswinger the seller and you'll get an autograph???

There's not much overhang though, so water will run down that constantly with no drip left. I think hack off render and use the decorative slips id the most robust and maintenance free solution, with a colour / pattern that suits the surroundings and won't show any 'lines' but can be pressure washed too.

I mean just using the legs as a stay to stop the floor walking, but when you get to the far doorway it'll be held there too so doubt you have anything to worry about here at all tbh.

Thanks. You only need expansion at the edges, so the rule is not to have this shoe-horned into the 4 opposite walls for eg, otherwise it lifts in the centre (pillows up), so with the flooring pressing against the legs and the area being so small, I'd just have it captive left and right, and then lift the legs and shoot under where the plinth heater is, as the worst expansion (negligible anyways) will be lengthways there.

Indeed. Some are described as extra deep, which puts the bottom deck of the bath closer to the floor without making the bath much taller to step into. Lots to decipher tbh!

If the flooring isn’t tight up against anything then it can expand all it likes? The only issue here is whether the floor will ‘walk’ eg start to move when you’re walking over it daily. Do the cuts work out that it’s just under one plinth but then further under another? A pic would help, plus how wide and long is the kitchen floor area please?

5/1/1 sand cement lime. You adding lime or not? Also if the blocks are dry and dusty they should be getting a quick dunk in a barrel of water before laying. @nod?

All my work here has been in vain. Upvc cladding is a sin. lol. ”No!”.

What? I'd rather lower my scrotum into an upturned petrol mower than see UPVC installed there. "New balls, please".

Thanks for confirming. I doubt they want to go around shooting their toes off, lets be honest, so nobody would say that in reality as no two tests/treatments will ever be the same. The solution is great for anyone with an overly complex or DIY build, but also I will consider them for any projects where I am coordinating/consulting on M&E (and have made sure the manual AT measures are already super-robust/identified and addressed to suit) as for the price I think this is an excellent set of braces to compliment the belt. Something to make your house more comfortable (for the rest of your life) and that also makes the MVHR efficiency max out, is a no brainer afaic.

Every member here feels for her......

No point in tickling the sides imho. Slap it on mate.

@craig may be able to advise.

If you hack that off and get it prepped correctly, tile adhesive is cementitious so won’t degrade, so it’ll stay put. You’d fit cement boards with corrosion resistant screws and dab with same adhesive, and then tile to the boards. Render outside for this kind of thing you see failing everywhere, just look at some walls when you’re driving the ‘burbs and you’ll quickly notice it.

Same thing with cars and shopping centre parking spaces!?! eBay / gumtree if you're stuffed and have to have that model, or a mind-bending amount of googling to find an alternative. Or bite the bullet and dress an integrated one in.

That's a perfectly fine and normal bath.

That salesperson was a dick. Others from the land of the hot-press will be along to comment, just sit and wait for the magic to happen . You'd be best off sticking to UK based suppliers so you can get robust after-sales service, but there is some lovely stuff coming from abroad, and iirc Velfac and Rational manufacture in Europe, so this is not uncommon.

Not seen a section drawing like that before. The entire external leaf and all your façade cladding etc hanging over a 10mm gap with some comp'band seems odd to me; most are sat on the insulation, and that is flush to the masonry or Marmox. If you can get to all that area currently, then I would set that insulation block in, against a fat bead of 330FM foam to act as a shutter and better seal the gaps under the twin wall. Then to fill the gaps I would drill down into the soleplate, using a handsaw blade inserted above the DPC to ensure that it doesn't get punctured by the drill bit, say at 10mm dia. I'd then introduce about a teaspoon of 50/50 water/pva primer and then the same qty of D4 PU flooring glue into the same hole (500ml bottle have a nozzle that you can push into the hole and the glue is reasonably 'runny') but less is more with this so do some trial and error before you squirt too much in and it goes crazy. If the undulations are over say 1000mm, then I'd drill every 200mm, dead centre of the sole plate, and repeat as necessary. Youll need to hoover out the sawdust or use a blower, so the hole is clear for the glue to drop down. The D4 glue will love the bit of moisture from the priming and cure/expand like nobody's business, and it'll go off very hard to give you the result you want. Normal builders foam will be quite soft, and a waste of time here if you want strength as well as gap-filling.

Fit and forget. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/casterton-natural-stone-effect-split-face-tiles-100-x-500mm?s_kwcid=AL!15853!3!!!!x!!&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=20251729566&gbraid=0AAAAAD_SoLZYaExfpwqgPobeUWA1xyGaK&gclid=CjwKCAjw49vEBhAVEiwADnMbbByUNPEnFP30c3GhHEddga3YkEmBorrhHWfYMFRrivJMaE7iQpj74RoCuIgQAvD_BwE

How many places need packing, and by how much? Some pics of the main offenders would help, and also what’s the other side exactly, where you can’t get to, to gauge the impact of an expanding product going that way.

PS, if airtightness is dealt with meticulously, then a lot of these 'problems' evaporate. Ventilation heat loss is the biggest wallet/occupant comfort killer, fabric one can be almost set aside if you get AT + MVHR with a good spec.

Ok, so what you need to do is grout and grout again, and then check it over to ensure there are zero gaps for cold air to even attempt to rise through. Then with cold air infiltration dealt with you don't have major issues to deal with. If your ok with the cost go for 2x PIR, but you can go for 100mm EPS and then 100mm PIR over, as the cost benefit vs your lifetime will be negligible tbh. Then the ~86mm on screed. But............. If you want long term cost savings, not short term ones, then have ~100mm concrete slab on top, and go all PIR for the residual build up; so 111mm of concrete and 175mm of PIR. It'll swing the maths around to long term lower running costs, comfort, and open the option of batch heating up. UFH design can be tweaked to sympathise with this option to squeeze every last drop of juice out.

If you’re worried about combining the ease of escape with protection against accidentally falling out (perhaps in a children’s bedroom), you are still allowed to add accessories that help prevent this. Fire escape windows are allowed to have both key-locking handles and child-proof stays. Simply, the stay must be releasable, so you can still be safe and secure. We believe it is worth considering the complexity of combining a key-locking handle and a releasable restrictor on the same window. Whilst very secure and child-proof, some windows can require both hands and perhaps some practise to be able to unlock and release the window quickly. Not ideal in a stressful situation.

Amen. Can they also use some of the stuff I am utterly convinced about or just "feel in my bones" too?

There are lots of surveys to choose from! Big one for me is geotechnical, to ascertain soil/ground conditions well in advance, in case you need a 6-figure foundation which blows the project cost into orbit. Whilst they're there at it, add to it a ground contamination survey so at least you know what it'll cost to get out of the ground and that you don't need a huge volume of muckaway and new material imported to replace it.