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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    For £350 for the one I linked, what you waiting for?
  2. Nickfromwales
    My makita planer is nearly 4 years old, does a 25mm rebate with 4mm cut depth. It's still going flat out and never missed a beat. Things a damn animal. Tres bien ??
  3. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Flat faced so won't take a nut and olive. Got to be a flexi or tap connector.
  4. Nickfromwales
    Hang on Shirley, you'll get a bent tap connector on that outlet. Take the frame out, PTFE one on and carry on sucking down that tasty ale ? One of these maybe?
  5. Nickfromwales
    Drill at an angle with a 35mm bit and a flexi will go in there without re-writing the book. Bets are on that your already re-writing it as I type ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    That's stretching the imagination a bit too far there im afraid. ? A 2hp pump blasting through the pipework is chalk and cheese to the boiler pump doing it, plus, the PF machine is flow reversible so you get to send water through in the opposite direction to lift more debris out. The magnetic filter soon becomes saturated and overwhelmed by crud, so some of it has to go back in. With a PF machine you have a clear vessel so you keep flushing and reversing, emptying and refilling until the water is clear. That takes all day in some jobs as PF'ing isn't quick and easy by any means if your going to be thourough. . Checking and cleaning the magnetic filter every 3 months in the first year is good practice, but a proper PF is in a league of its own.
  7. Nickfromwales
    I'm not so sure about having to change ALL the rad valves, but it IS in the benchmark certificate that TRV's a room stat ( temp controls ) are fitted accordingly with one rad always being left without a TRV for system bypass. I always do that one by the front door / entrance hall as the uncontrolled heat soon disappears upstairs. Plus you need a rad on bypass to service the air space where the room stat is located so it always has a reference temp available. Changing the LS's isn't mandatory afaik, but not changing them is just bad practice imo as a system that's only ever seen a bit of gravity pressure will soon start leaking when you get to 1.5 - 2 bar operating pressure. Combine that with the flow from a new 6m head pump and you get to where we are here . Leakville, Tennessee.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Tell me about it ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    With 15 rads and a new sealed and pressurised system, it begs belief that they left the original rad valves on. What usually happens is the o-rings / other seal on the valve stem ( bit that turns ) go brittle and allow small amounts of water to escape. They're very difficult to diagnose as there is usually little or no visible evidence of them leaking. The reason for that is when cold they seal, but when warm / hot, the metal expands slightly and relaxes its grip on the stem seal. That allows water to leak very slightly into the valve head, but it then simply evaporates as it does so, so no tell tale drips on the floor. Multiply that by 15 and it's game over. Taking the heads off the lockshield valves may show evidence e.g. corrosion and green oxide sat around the valve stem. I'd bet that this is either the cause, or very much a big part of the pressure dropping. This can be easily solved with leak sealer, but only on the understanding that you can never turn these valves again ( or you'll break down the leak seal that's formed there ). A bit like the old 'chucking an egg in the car radiator' trick. Can you check all the LS valves? They should click off or have a screw in the centre. DONT LOSE THE SCREWS !
  10. Nickfromwales
    Don't use diamond Use a thin metal cutting blade often referred to as a 'slitting disc'. Link
  11. Nickfromwales
    I think the mention of power flushing as a routine part of a new installation, and power flushing as a resolve to a blocked pipe need separating out. Paying someone to PF dry pipes won't do a thing so would, afaic, be a waste of money, time and effort. When retrofitting a new boiler to old pipes and worse, old rads, a PF is mandatory in most cases. Bump : Are the rad valves ALL new?
  12. Nickfromwales
    I only ask about the filter as it's a 5 min job to dose with Sentinel with one of those ? Eliminate the PRV and come back to us re the leak sealer .
  13. Nickfromwales
    I'm all makita for everything except my chopsaw. I bought the Dewalt DWS 780xps shadow line and it's been a beast. I'd instantly recommend a Dewalt unit but you've got to love this makita one for the price and 12" blade. Im putting that in my wish list. Time to sell the other kidney ?
  14. Nickfromwales
  15. Nickfromwales
    And welcome to the mad house !
  16. Nickfromwales
    If the pipes are dry then they're disconnected. There's no way a blockage would be tight to 1 bar on BOTH pipes It may well be that this was the old heat leak rad that was plumbed in parallel to the hot water cylinder so, worst case, will need to be teed back into the flow and return. Is there a magnetic filter at the new boiler location? Oh, and don't forget to make sure rain can't fill the clear bag
  17. Nickfromwales
    There's a general 'rule' down my neck of the woods. If at least 1 in 10 properties in a terraced run ( or run of properties known to share a sewer ) have a vent to atmosphere then they'll give you the ok to not vent and use AAV's. If your end of run then I'd endeavour to vent it TBH, only retro capping it if the stench ever becomes evident.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Remember to use a 127mm core not the smaller one for the actual soil pipe as the knuckle of the tee won't go into the recess left by the smaller size core. . Saves you having to chip it out from inside and out. Remember that for a clip to go onto a standard soil pipe run externally, the knuckle of the fitting outside ( if you are having a fitting directly outside of course ) will need to be recessed slightly into the wall too. Mock up a piece of pipe in 2 clips and hold it against the wall, measure the distance and compare it to the fitting, and you'll see what I mean.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Can't go wrong. Pampers and site boots. That an early shot of you @Declan52 ?
  20. Nickfromwales
    Good idea. Silicone is the anti-Christ when your looking to glue or paint something. I worked in an autobody repair shop for 2 years, prepping and priming damaged cars. I also got given the splenderific task of sanding out and machine polishing ( mopping ) any evidence of 'fish eyes' ( where silicone had somehow got into the booth from the valeting bay next door and caused the paint to react / not adhere properly ) which was a soul destroying job on a good day. Even worse when it's outside. Oh and don't keep the mop still on a freshly painted, plastic, Rover 216 door handle either Oops. Another day I was working for free
  21. Nickfromwales
    Yup, but only M-S if there's any excess crap to remove, like old silicone etc . If it's a relatively clean pipe then Meths will do the job on its own.
  22. Nickfromwales
    Only advice to add to this phase is to add one or two automatic air vents ( bottle vents ) instead of the manual ones. Will make commissioning a much easier job . These will screw straight into the empty holes ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    I did an entire oil boiler job once in around 400mm and less crawl space. Fitted all the central heating rads, pipes down into the 'basement', then under I went to extend, clip, and insulate it all from 10mm to 15mm to 22mm. And a poxy favour job Just resign yourself and crawl around until you love it. Then start working. Enjoy ?
  24. Nickfromwales
    Then drink the vodka
  25. Nickfromwales
    Meths. .
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