Nickfromwales

lol. I suggested similar to a client once, when younger and even dumber, with glass mosaics. It was a never-ending punishment to lay, and then the grout just refused to dry as I’d made it a bit wetter than usual (to give me some more open time)…… Then, whilst stood in the bath grouting and buffing like it was my last day on earth, I bent over and head butted one of the sharp copper pipes I left for the shower (with no cap end) and still have the Harry Potter scar on the top of my forehead; I am now ever-reminded of that “fantastic idea” I once had. ffs. 🤦‍♂️. Long live the large format tile!

Another for the KISS approach

Yes. Stop listening to the manufacturers and go with the bonded XPS (Wedi / Jackoboard) type material. You’ll need to self level over them as they follow to subfloor, but that’s your opportunity to bury the electric UFH. 👍 Then tank and tile.

You're either floating or not. Fixing the chipboard to the battens would cause a conflict. Why floating? Seems added uncertainty with a mixture of bedroom > bathroom wetroom flooring.

Thanks for that, as nowt beats a bit of raw data! Interesting to see how it's still performing admirably, even immediately before deciding it's time for a defrost. The ASHP that's just gone in at one of my current projects defrosts by using some of the buffer volume, I believe. When we had the bitter cold snap recently it defrosted in probably 30-45 seconds; just a big cloud of steam and an almost instant runoff of water from the melted ice. A few minutes at not much more energy consumption doesn't seem to be the worst thing, so your graph offers some assurances, so 👍. The hat's got a few holes in it, may not have taken another hit tbh......

As a blanket yes, but after 3ach not so much. People in affordable of HA housing will switch MVHR off and happily choke to death, whilst drying wet clothes in 3 rooms and typing out a complaint about the mould and condensation issues. You can’t educate pork, but also there are some terrible handovers conducted, or none at all, so what people don’t know they simply won’t know. MVHR and airtightness are both the best things since the slicing of the first loaf, but it needs to be done correctly, in a dwelling that sympathises, and be owned by an informed occupant / end user.

Absolutely. Most contractors feel they need to fear, or hide away from the BCO. Engaging with them to keep the cogs oiled is often far more beneficial overall, and prevents such feckups. Depends on how far you let the builder go before provoking a visit from building control.

It can prob be derived here, better, for free. These pro’s are just annoyingly expensive and underwhelming. About to get another new clients architect placed into the nearest bin, which actually happens a lot when I’m involved and demonstrate the long list of faux-pas. Current clown hasn’t actually followed the approved planning application, so that chat I had with the client to highlight this last week was “enlightening” to say the least. Then that moved quickly to being infuriated. Operation lead balloon was in full effect, yet again.

With your love of buffer tanks, what’s the method of defrosting in the absence of one? I’ll go get my tin hat ready……

A metal “bell” strip would be the junction between bricks and blocks, to kick the drip / rain away. Different types / sizes, so ask £20k boy to go draw something quick and simple; as if it was coming out of their pocket not yours for eg.

Stick with us, kid

A man of distinction. I went to price a flush in a large 3 storey town house and just told her straight, all the GF rads are skip fodder, and that doing her the disservice of flushing them would be of zero value, probably the opposite when I make all her valves leak. She said it was nice to get some truth as the last guy said £400 for the day; one assumes he would have hooked up and then gone on Farse-book to pass the time. I said we could do a good job, where we take each of the FF rads off, bring them outside, and flush them one at a time at full wallop, turning them up on end and upside down etc, which removes a load of crap. We ended up installing new rads downstairs, and whilst they were removed and capped off we flushed the top floor rads in situ. We then gave the whole house the new TRV’s and lock shield they were screaming out for. Client said the GF had never been so warm, with all her nice new oversized double convectors (Stelrad to the rescue with some nice looking rads with slight curves to sides and top covers), so happy days all round. There is an interesting gadget available…. which you use to rattle the shit out of the rads during the flushing process, particularly where the valves connect. I’ve decided to dodge this method as tbh most of the much older rads would probably piss themselves on the spot if you actually decided to go with this “initiative”. ”Springers final thoughts”…… You can’t really cheat your way around 30+ years of mild steel sat in water. Nothing lasts forever. The massive uplift in efficiency you’d get from new convectors is well worth the investment in new rads for the GF vs putting good money after bad. @Dee If it’s a matter of needs must, then just put some sludge remover in there and let the chemicals do whatever they can, aka putting a band-aid on it. Flush it all out in accordance, and then see if it’s good enough. Cheap simple DIY option. If you do go for a flush, take all the GF rads off and get them done one at a time.

British Gas are just legalised thieves. Their signature move is mugging old people for huge sums of money to fit the cheapest Gloworm Boiler as quickly and shoddily as (in)humanly possible. Utter shower of shit.

@DRT if you haven’t noticed that thread is a year old too. No probs blowing the dust off as every bit of additional info is of value, just in case you were hoping for some immediate feedback. This looks like it’s time for a new inverter from a more robust manufacturer.

Adding the wood (TF) section does complicate this, seemingly unnecessarily. Plates for ceiling rafters and roof rafters can be done quickly and simply to connect those.

Just thought it best for a quick sanity check. One can get quite lost going down various hypothetical rabbit-holes, when it’s all you keep staring at.

She seems way too happy about ladders. Do you get much snow?

Yup. I’ve allowed to insulate the flow and returns along the lengthy landing area, to ensure any heat we introduce is going exactly where I want it to.

What areas are you using it in?

Not had great experiences with Nu heat previously either. And pricey.

Not assuming anything, simply answered your question Its not a small one iirc.

I’m working on an MBC PH project atm and we’ve had this chat. Defo going to install UFH on the FF, but I’ve spec’d it for only 70-80% of each of the room floor areas to be heated, due to the anticipated minimal heating requirements. I’ve asked MBC to make some changes to the upstairs construction to allow me to get alu spreader plates in as quickly as possible when they get up to wall plate height. Planning that to happen on a Thursday / Friday so we can ask MBC to stand down so the install of all the ff UFH can be done over a long (bat-shit crazy) weekend……I am well aware that MBC will be champing at the bit again at 07:00 on the Monday morning(!!) so I’ve got a few good people lined up to help out as it’s quite a big (400m2 iirc) house. After the slab detailing for ductwork, my next joy is going through heating and cooling / plant etc, and have planned some fan coils to blast the FF landing (full height, fully glazed gallery aspects each side) to scavenge unwanted stagnant heat away. Some powered Velux windows will step in early for a bit of passive purge, so the reliance on cooling or more specifically cooling under duress is mitigated against at the design level. Hopefully it all works at the end or I’ll have to move house. Lol.

Because upstairs are bedrooms, and each are individual…..to the individuals in them! Why would you not zone, and then rob yourself of any degree of control? The swing from north to south is considerable, and this cannot be rubber stamped from one project to another, particularly if there’s any discernible glazing featured.

Done. ✔️ Editing ability times out btw.

Get over it lol. They’re very good bits of kit for not much money tbf, if you can survive off fairly rudimentary controls. Anything complex, get yourself into the Stiebel Eltron stuff. The controls are just inarguably good for more bespoke stuff with multiples of different temp zones etc. Its annoying that someone doesn’t (appear to) do anything off the shelf (and manufacture coordinated in one instruction book) for a more middle of the road price tag.