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Nickfromwales

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  1. Nickfromwales
    Quote :- Anhydride substrates After sanding and dustaspiration, apply PRIMER PU/ POLY ECO, PS39/ 3W, etc.. quartzide while is still wet and the next day after the complete curing, remove excess unbound crystal, then proceed bonding. Do the prep properly or lay the floor twice ( or three times if your my current client ).
  2. Nickfromwales
    +1
  3. Nickfromwales
    Solar ( Pv ) can be easily bolted on later down the line . Just get dual immersions on the UVC and one on the buffer and you'll be covered, not just for Pv, but you'll also then be able to survive short-term if you run out of oil. ( assuming you have oil as you mentioned an external boiler ? ). Ps, if you mention my username and the forum Trevor will still give you a discounted rate ?, but you'll have the slight recent increase to bear. They're still very competitive tbh, so not all bad .
  4. Nickfromwales
    Would be argued out all to easily unless a datum was given and signed off by both parties. He's laid a slab and that's enough to get him off the hook. @oranjeboom, how's relations with said builder? He still in comms with you about rectification / gravity of the situation and what's needed to put it right ?
  5. Nickfromwales
    ? If it's what I think it is then wait unti the grout is dry and we'll pop one together ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    Stop spitting at him and maybe you won't need to keep going back
  7. Nickfromwales
    Was up West Malling ( Laybourne? ) a while back fitting my B+SiL's bathroom. This one belongs to your builder. Maybe he laid the shat that I've having to deal with here I just cannot fathom out how they couldn't lay a bloody liquid screed level . It levels itself for crying out loud!!!!
  8. Nickfromwales
    Nope, it's some poor sods kitchen diner. A big conservatory company, who's name rhymes with schneverest, did a total botch. I get to put it right. Lucky me. Liquid screed over UFH and I think I've just got to grow a pair and dig the lot out, pipes n all. Feck.
  9. Nickfromwales
    Depends on what's left low after the grinding has been done TBH as only then will you be able to determine what's got to be levelled. It doesn't sound as if the whole area needs to be levelled so there shouldn't be an issue imo, but if it's over 8-10mm with any decent area then I'd probably change to the fibre-impregnated pourable screed / leveller so it can flex with the subfloor. That should stop the two parting company. Started ripping this out yesterday. Never seen a slab or levelling done so badly before. Shocking. Liquid screed laid so low by the doors that the first layer you can see coming up nearly half inch thick was used to get the floor raised. Then up to another half inch of tile adhesive to get the tiles flat. I still don't know how someone can get it so wrong TBH. ?? Neat flexiprime going on and then a decoupling membrane, then fibre levelling screed then adhesive. Imo it should be completely ripped out but it's got UFH pipes and I've only got 6 days to do it ? Get the prep right folks or you'll be doing it twice I promise you. .
  10. Nickfromwales
    Another 'hot press' ? ?
  11. Nickfromwales
    Oh, and if it was the promised 35 mix you'd probably not be in such a bad shape. Over working or over wetting the 25 mix would magnify the problems.
  12. Nickfromwales
    Repairs can only be over a solid substrate
  13. Nickfromwales
    How long since the pour, and you being able to mark the slab with 'text' ?
  14. Nickfromwales
    This guy has an unenviable task ahead of him. When is he due back on site as this removal needs doing sharpish before it gets much harder? That friable top crust is not good. Those areas will need to have copious applications of very weak primer / water mixes, saturating the area so it penetrates as far as possible BEFORE any levelling takes place.
  15. Nickfromwales
    ?✌️️??✌️️✌️️✌️️✌️️??
  16. Nickfromwales
    Oh, sorry, are you saying you already have the boiler ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    ? Oh dannyeeeeeeeeboyyyyyyyyy ? Sorry, been a long day Check out the blogs by members here, @TerryE, @JSHarris, @Bitpipe and more have oodles to say on the 'package build' journey in various guises. The blogs in general are gold dust, as their actual accounts from real,builds, and they're warts n all and you just can't buy that info ? There is a HELL of a lot to read here, so open a cold beer and start going through the library. Feel free to resurrect any older threads or indeed start a few of your own. . Welcome aboard, and enjoy
  18. Nickfromwales
    Indeed. This is, in fairness, not a typical scenario so shouldn't be taken as 'regular' advice.
  19. Nickfromwales
    Stinks a bit when servicing it properly, and a full baffle seeep isn't the cleanest of jobs. Utility at the very best imo. @NIreland what about buying an external oil boiler ( if we're assuming oil ) and leave it outside ready for relocation when you do have a garage. Then just use the digger for your founds to chop you a path for the pipework, and bingo. No noise, no smell, and can be serviced without entry to the property.
  20. Nickfromwales
    Gas or oil?
  21. Nickfromwales
    You can insulate them, with a good 25mm wall Armorflex tbh, and would be easier. No need for a 'tray', just insulation.
  22. Nickfromwales
    Brush marks will show through the spray so I'd leave the brush out of it. .
  23. Nickfromwales
    When you say water pipes, are you referring to hot and cold ? If so then I'd try and get the cold run under the heated slab, not in it. Hot is fine, but nothing worse than having to run luke warm water away to get a cold drink.
  24. Nickfromwales
    @Temp In the 'old days' they had a switch marked Sink / Bath and that toggled between a high up immersion and another near the base. As @Crofter is renting this out he can't really set times for low / peak DHW demand, so it's got to be ready to rock pretty much 24/7 in occupancy.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Normally I'd say yes, but as this is not a huge UVC in a nice rental I'd say stick with the lower for maxing the UVC out on e7 and just have the upper as boost ( eg you can put a sign saying "please press once before showering for continuous hot water" if it was deemed necessary of course. It ( the boost heater ) could even be triggered by flow to the shower via a flow switch and contactor, and a timer. Its just one of those things where there are a lot of eventualities that need to be considered. A boost switch is a simple backup / contingent.
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