Nickfromwales

You may be able to rebate a 20mm steel plate, and stand it on 9x 3” steel tubes, placed to avoid the pipes but to land on the substructure. No matter how deep in the shit you are, there's always a Welshman with a way out lol.

That’s as helpful as……… Well, it’s just unhelpful.

The cavity

Inner for draught proofing, or you’ll still have a cold room.

What he said. Just use FM330 foam, as that wont bridge damp etc.

Yours is borderline unrecognisable as a quim. I attribute this to ‘costal erosion’.

I genuinely wish I knew WTF you just said, but it’s way above my pay-grade lol. I will continue to peruse and hope to be unwittingly educated (somehow); a bit like how boiling water has to accept being infused by a teabag. “Continue” ☺️

Not really, just needs someone to bite down and make the 1st fix robust enough to adopt whatever is to be fitted downstream. I have had to do this on the current job; now a few days into being ghosted by one ‘Daikin specialist’….. Quite a few one-trick ponies out there, sadly. Two rounds of being passed from pillar to post after calling Daikin UK design / support, then sent back through the process again by further clueless fcukwits, for someone to lift the phone, say fcuk all, and then hang up on me. Took all my might to not bite the corner off my iPhone, and wrecked my mojo for the rest of the (then more) difficult day. (expletive deleted) Anyhoo. I am currently sailing along on my own compass, and have put pipework in that will suit all scenarios, conduits vs cables (so whatever communications are needed, these can be pulled A-B with ease, downstream of plaster-boarding and plastering), and the world will continue to spin without a sweat being broken. All pipework insulated and joints and seams taped with neoprene self adhesive ‘insulation tape’, and no stone left unturned. I decided to raise the topic of hydronic air handling via a duct heater, and the client is happy to concur; I will just spur off the flow and return from the nearest FCU (22mm F&R), leave a pair of pipes in the MVHR ‘cupboard’ in abeyance, and have the option to integrate this later (if so required (and they’re not too broke to do so 🙃)). Then, on to solving the next problem.

Agreed, this is a melting pot….. Plumbing in a whole of house FCU install currently, and Daikin are bloody hard work to get info out of…. Going for an inline duct heater / cooler for MVHR + FCU’s over 3 stories + GF UFH (heat and dew point controlled cooling). Just finding out what cables to run is a circus, being transferred from one dead end to another, then on to a non-responsive approved installer. Like pulling teeth. All want to just fit AC, but I need a hydronic system for UFH and air handling vs adding another outdoor unit, more trenching and ducting etc. Mention room by room temp control, and the stare becomes even blanker….. The lads at Panasonic were infinitely better to deal with, vs Daikin.

A2A can heat a ‘cold’ space in a few minutes. Rads 15-30 mins, minimum. @Russell griffiths never strays far from his carp, so switching stuff on / off manually is fine.

Some have a cylinder (or store) but others simply don't let the plate heat exchanger go cold, and just pass heated water through it; no stored water as such, just far less delay getting premium temp DHW from device > outlet.

The Yin to my Yang The actual experiences of my many interactions, producing homes for folk to live in, and then them moving in, is at odds with how blissfully simplistic your post suggests, largely because ‘others’ were left to the mercy of ‘professionals’ that they trusted. You are very different, and are making better, own informed decisions, and have researched the shit out of it, and this will pay huge dividends.

Fabric first approach, but no stupid compromises to suffer is always a primary focus, considering this may well be the single biggest expense of your lifetime. Another current client has double-height glazing which at first glance would suggest they’ll roast to death, bit I’ve made the client(s) aware of solar control glazing, and with a few tweaks, and some input from the good folk at Norrsken, it has all passed muster and the fenestration all went in successfully last week. Knowledge is power, and anyone with comprehensive industry knowledge and (lots of) years of experience are defo assets; welcomed oil for the cogs. Start the planning as early as you can, explore every option / nook / cranny, and measure twice build once, well. Results will then speak for themselves!

Nope. Just a microwave, and sometimes the mother of all microwaves, but if fixed, always a dedicated cct. It is what it is, me no make-a-da-rules. I just follow them……most of the time (if they make sense).

You are correct! As you’d then not need the BS that accompanies PH ‘compliance’; windows and doors reduced to manage excess solar gain, locations moved accordingly (often not giving the views you may have wanted), list goes on. Then there’s the PH product list that you MUST not deviate from, with the inflated price tags, or the 4 horsemen will come and behead you. Constraints such as under and over heating, for another example, where one current client (building to PH and getting certified) was essentially a passenger on her architects journey. No time given to consider how she wished to live, and nothing conveyed as to how hot the house would be in summer; when I provoked this conversation the client was told nearly 35 days of the year her PHPP showed an infinity sign, which iirc means >25°C internal temps. Not 25°, above that, and when further provoked by the concerned client, it was estimated that 14+ days would see >28°C “without human intervention”. Similarly the winters would require portable heaters to be brought into rooms to heat the rooms, but “they must feature accurate thermostatic control to not then overheat the room it’s in….. oh, and you’ll need more than one heater too”. Comfortable? My arse! The above ‘design’ meant cross / purge ventilating the whole house, proactively, over the 2 stories all summer, and whatever you do, don’t go out fir the day with the house locked and secure, as that needs babysitting…… Btw, she found this out after the house was in production and door and window locations (restrictions) were cemented. Not happy bunnies, and no longer serviced by said architectural practice. Oh, and charged a feckin fortune for the ‘privilege’. I continue to be underwhelmed by most (not all) architects I meet along the way, as it’s all too often about adding to the trophy shelf.

If it’s fixed / integrated, it needs a dedicated cct. All my sparks on site have stated this, but could all be making stuff up I guess. Doubt it though as they're all very highly qualified and ‘current’.

The internal leaf of masonry should be a continuous ‘layer’, so draughts can only travel through the cavity. What we’re seeing is typical ‘builder quality’ work for that era.

Cheap as in simple and cost effective? COP is 1:1, but you’ll be nearly 100% efficient doing direct electric > hot water via immersions.

Defo A2A AC for heat & cool, almost instant hit vs panel heaters, cheap to run as COP will typically be above 3. Unvented cylinders with 2 immersions, for failsafe, as you're letting these to fishermen and hot water is critical.

BCO and warranty provider (private, combined) walked past a load of faux pas, totally focussed on a few things. Council guys seem more focussed on the project, but also seem overworked. Double edged sword for council vs private imo.

This is prevalent…..”all the gear, no idea” The number of jobs where I’ve corrected the architects, even PH certified ones, is just astonishing. Flashy websites and zero clue…..last one I beat by 1% in PHPP and I’m not qualified lol. I find the higher ranking / higher qualified ones often deliver the most underwhelming results; I find the pretty picture and concept for the dwelling is the sole focus, and the clients are a second thought. Not just a blasé statement btw, factual feedback from my many, many interactions, and real world experience. Hi Gema (and other half). A really comfortable home will be difficult to achieve if you comply with the many constraints of a certified PH. I have helped folk create homes which exceed PH levels, without certification, complimented with total focus on the folks who will then reside within. Beware the info that is often left to be discovered, when the decisions have been made and the house then built and occupied. Many instances of happy home builders on here, most without PH certification (so the maths have already been done for you ).

Ok, is this a system or combi boiler? You say cylinder so assume there’s an unvented hot water cylinder? If its in the garage, make an insulated boiler cupboard and reduce your latent losses by a fair bit (sounds expensive if you’re heating a cold ventilated garage!). Need as much info as possible, and a picture of all plumbing and the cylinder plz.

A hell of a lot more than you (x3 eg 30+ years of it). I appreciate the title though, quite catchy If a wall isn’t skimmed, then its bare plasterboard, so either way you’d need to call Tanky McTankface. Absolutely zero issue to have skim on the boards. “15 all, new balls please!”.

This is completely inaccurate. A single failure, once, is no measure for the rest of the trades and how they deliver work. If the tiles leak then having hardie board wont save you, it'll just delay the inevitable. @Lincolnshire Ian, why are the walls white?

Not heard this, and I would not be doing 4mm radials unless someone had a gun pointed at my last beer in the fridge.