Nickfromwales

47mm boxes screwed into the green OSB boards for current MBC project; 35mm battens, ~16mm PB + skim, so the box is bang on. Were doing 15mm PB everywhere here, so a bit shy of the painted surface, but much better than fast-fix boxes tbh. These have their place, like when clients can’t make such decisions ahead of boarding / skimming etc, but metal boxes should be used where you can.

The 135 spigot connector may well be an odd size, as some have a Euro spec outlet on the trap body, then an Euro > UK adaptor to get you to 40/42mm metric waste pipe. If you can pull the spigot 135 out, try fitting a 40mm compression nut onto tye thread to see if it’s Euro > UK, or simply a conveniently supplied UK > UK offset (that can be discarded if superfluous. If it’s a UK fitment then you can just replace the conical rubber seal, but if it’s a Euro fitting then this may need ‘more research’ to get the correct replacement. If you want a simple, robust solution, CT1 the male spigot, put the existing rubber back onto the spigot, apply a bit more over it, and crank the bastard home. Leave for 3-4 hrs and test. Also check the body of the trap doesn’t have a crack in it.

What would you like to know?

You can disassemble the top of the white elbow, reclaim all the internals and reconstruct, then just push a fresh bit of copper into it. Fingertip of fairy liquid to lube the rubber and pipe before assembly will let it all pop back in with ease. Or, for insurance, just cut the pipe 100mm above the elbow and use 1x straight connector > copper > tap.

As @carlos21 says, just crack the compression nut off the tap, add a compression coupler, add pipe, make back off into the OS tap. Simples. Don't bother with isolators, just knock off the mains in the street and crack on.

The designer will follow the law, the BCO will enforce it. You would need to support this with written evidence to the contrary, do you have such reference material? I find it difficult to accept that a practicing BCO would make such a bold statement, post Grenfell, if it wasn't valid. I can accept this in principle, because at the point where these would become effective, circa 55-57 degrees C of flames licking around them, the sad reality is that the occupants (remaining inside) would have likely already expired due to smoke inhalation. Almost nobody dies from being 'burned alive'; they would have already succumbed to the toxic smoke. At that point, your external cavity fire prevention would be doing absolutely feck all for these lost souls. So, that being my personal opinion, the above BCO makes a valid statement in actuality, but I cannot say that it was lawful for them to say so, as I am not completely fluent with these regs personally. Common sense should prevail here; for my current and subsequent 2 self-build clients, I raised the subject of "automatic fire suppression". It wasn't "needed", but the client chose to adopt this anyways, at reasonable cost, to safeguard his family. In addition, I routinely add 2 - 3x the required number of smoke / heat / multi-sensor detectors for the best line of defence, aka 'early warning', as this is hands-down the one thing that saves lives. External cavity measures are borderline irrelevant for a regular domestic dwelling of 1 or 2 stories, in my own opinion.

Done it loads of times. You’ll likely need 2x 50mm to be effective, each teed separateky into the 110mm pipe vs teeing 2 off 1 x 50mm pipe. Needs the free volume of pipe CSA to function. You can also add an anti-syphon trap to the basin for a bit more AA. Does this drop a full 8-10’ down, eg first floor?

ASHP flow and return travel with the cold mains? All uninsulated??

It’s just a pretty crap valve all round. Having to use a screwdriver firstly, and then having to guess if it’s exactly ‘off’ vs passing slightly for another. These just do 360° spins vs the tap type valves which have positive stops to tell you you're fully on or off. The internal bore is tiny, and they are quite noisy if you've got good water pressure. Any bypass should have the same bore / lpm capacity also.

Firstly, if this is a bypass then you’d want to get rid of the screwdriver operated ballofix valve, and fit another 1/4 turn lever (butterfly handle) tap. It’s likely a softener bypass / kit. https://wrekinwatertreatment.co.uk/products/22mm-bypass-set-with-integral-tees?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=1e7714181&pr_rec_pid=10023003554121&pr_ref_pid=10023006011721&pr_seq=uniform

The pipe run between plant and outlet is defo getting heated by other influences, as at worst it should be tepid then cool then cold. 24° to 30° and then downwards means this is more of an instance of negligence methinks. @scottishjohn, you need to approach the builder with your concerns and intended path of HSE, and simply say you’ll accept him (re)doing the work as cost effectively as is practicable, under your immediate supervision, or he can pay for someone else to be appointed. Legally you MUST offer him the opportunity to rectify, do NOT touch a thing until you have your ducks in a row.

Nice solution. Shame these couldn’t be joined internally and one pipe existing.

Yup. You’re now 18th ed lol. Go get some stickers for the van

No point in insulation unless it’s back to back with a bedroom or other habitable space. You’re inside the heated envelope so just lag the hot and cold pipes.

Nope.

Yup. 👌

I just bought 30 blades for £15-20 and they’re dogshit. Teeth are pointing straight out so they don't clear the sawdust out. I have to keep moving the blade….. Just make sure the teeth are angled and after that you’re safe to go ‘budget’.

I’ve had this happen a number of times, where there is an overhead obstacle and the requisite head-height has looked even remotely questionable.

I thought it was just to water his plants.

Having the flow do a 180° u-turn is pretty naff, so I’d not do as your drawing suggests as it’ll always be a (very) weak point. If you install one of those access pipes immediately above ground internally, you can Y branch underground and you need ZERO other pipes / manholes / rodding points whatsoever. Simpler and cheaper, and bombproof.

And then realise your FPS is still crap, and then it’s…….

Yup. But in almost every single instance I can recall they’ve been hung like a kitchen cupboard, with a top left and a top right bracket. Vanity tops are typically 830-840mm off finished floor level, so a horizontal strip of 18mm ply from 600mm up would suffice. When ready for final fit, put 2 or 3 x 50p sized blobs of CT1 on the rear of the sink and also a few ‘dots’ along the top edges of the left and right of the unit where the sink will sit on top, and then press the sink firmly against the wall. Once the vanity is ‘hung’, I push 5mm packers under the bottom corners to swing the bottom out and then add 150mm long beads of clear CT1 (between the vanity and wall) and then pull the packers out. Push back firmly to displace the excess and then use the bracket adjusters to get it perfectly level, then clean off any excess with baby wipes, then cosmetic silicone wherever it is required. This stops any movement whatsoever, and completely negates using ‘basin bolts’ to separately fix the basin to the wall.

For this distance, sending DC back is nuts. Abandon this is my 2 cents, as you'll need huge CCA of the cables. Put the inverter out with the array and send AC back; same we did a while back on a ground mount some 135m away from the house, where the client wanted the array in a meadow vs the untouchable roof of his listed home.

Time to upgrade the machine then........

Contact stairpartsdirect or stairbox / similar and ask for a solution. The first or last tread can be different, but muscle memory is a bitch and it'll keep catching you out.