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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    I know it's wishful thinking that our own internal infrastructure could manage this without it costing unnecessary £b of taxpayers cash. Ho hum. ??
  2. Nickfromwales
    Yes to the y branch as that's what I would have done TBH. Youll prob have to order one as not many merchants / sheds stock them.
  3. Nickfromwales
    I mean government driven and non negotiable. Set installation costs and no room for pickpockets. The councils could take on the task of installation and maintenance or have we forgotten such simple tasks don't actually NEED to be subbed out all the bloody time? By the time 3rd party pickpockets ( who invariably do the shittest quality lowest integrity work which ultimately creates maintenance and reliability issues & their subsequent rectification costs ) get a slice of the pie it'll be at least a decade before any benefit is felt. Its something that should be a not for profit drive, managed by the government and undertaken at cost. It would also create some jobs for life.
  4. Nickfromwales
    Why can't the government fit a pair of pv panels on every uk home / building ? The DNO's can be made to reinforce the grid out of their 'marginal' profits and that gargantuan area of m2 of wasted space will be utilised to reduce / slow down the destroying of the planet on which we've selfishly decided to suck dry at any cost. Wouldn't that be a better way to spend the money being tossed into the nuclear pot?
  5. Nickfromwales
    My old vinyl floor used to get destroyed by my sil's high heel boots. They give ridiculous point pressure Funny how folk won't wear shoes in their own house but will not take them off in others .
  6. Nickfromwales
    tell you later
  7. Nickfromwales
    +1. Even purpose laid plywood will need what the layers call 'smoothing compound' to get the joints and screw holes invisible. Its like self levelling compound but much finer and can be feathered out to nothing and 'sanded' with a carborundum block.
  8. Nickfromwales
    It's nice stuff ?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Just pulled up 15 / 20 year old Karndean in a kitchen diner knock through and it was still looking exceptionally good for its age and the fact it was in a high traffic / adverse environment. I think it's naturally warmer underfoot too, plus offers some impact sound absorption. The Amtico I saw was still too commercial - hospital feel / look for my liking.
  10. Nickfromwales
    Ring them and arrange your own courier?
  11. Nickfromwales
    The "brown" is UG ( underground ) stuff, so if you want to glue it you'll need to scratch it thoroughly with coarse sandpaper and clean with pipe cleaner. Then use solvent cement which comes in a metal toothpaste tube, commonly referred to as gap filler which is the bigger brother of the normal waste pipe solvent weld.
  12. Nickfromwales
    That run with the brown branch id have done differently tbh. The far left where the AAV is should be held up tight to the floor with all round patent band and the far right packed down as low as it could go before passing the bottom of the joist. If there was a reason for not being able to get more of a fall, I'd have out a Y branch for the WC, rectified to vertical with a single socket 45o bend, so things are already heading in the right direction. A regular branch isn't meant to be on a horizontal run, particularly when taking a WC and more so when in a near flat fall. Solids will be going left and right with that arrangement, and as you don't have any water coming down past it, just the AAV, I'd do it differently. Also, I'd be suprised if the BCO doesn't pull you over using UG fittings above ground. I've done it in the past, but made sure they were hidden or covered up before any inspections
  13. Nickfromwales
    You should only balance when every loop / actuator is fully open. I'm guessing you know that.
  14. Nickfromwales
    Yup. Can be done if you've got a good local glass supplier ( who can toughen the glass ).
  15. Nickfromwales
    I got fully floating bofolds ( shown in that pic I posted where the shower is 45'vd into the corner and a bifold either side which close to make the enclosure ) from Novalleni ( spelling could be e not a ). Rise and fall hinges so they stay folded or fall from 45o to the open position and pretty much stay there.
  16. Nickfromwales
    The flow gauges don't usually turn out more than 2 revolutions . Any more than that and your off to Wellies R Us ?
  17. Nickfromwales
    ? If you find your shoulders start to ache and your backs getting stiffer by the minute, "your doing it right" Crack on !
  18. Nickfromwales
    So it's safe to assume there is no parge begind the wall plates or end joists ? Eg a lot of unsealed blockwork and junctions that it'll be damn near impossible to get to. . Have you already had the blower test done ? You may be better off just foaming behind each of the osb sheets or buy the green air tight osb and use that. The foam needs to be continuous around the very edge of each sheet so nowt can get through. Use foam then between the block work and the end joists prior to plasterboarding the ceiling. Foam and a rubber tube to inject it where it's needed will be your friend here I think vs any spray product.
  19. Nickfromwales
  20. Nickfromwales
    Haven't ever seen that before TBH. Is it part of the locking mechanism or is it deffo altering the position of the pin ? If the latter, changed them all to the fully recessed position and try again. Can you post a link / Google the manufacturers blurb?
  21. Nickfromwales
    Mmmmmmm......sausage. ?
  22. Nickfromwales
    Possibly, but if you turn on one zone at a time then then 100% of the pump potential is sent to that zone so any air may get forced through a bit more effectively. Do you have flow gauges on each loop ? With everything open the pump potential is divided .
  23. Nickfromwales
    Agreed. I can't see how spraying alone would deal with any complex junctions or 'shoddy' bits. They'd need to be either caulked or taped first, or better if done after an initial spray ( a first spray so you get a good surface to tape to, if its block for eg ).
  24. Nickfromwales
    Switch all of the stats off bar the kitchen and see what gets / stays warm. That's the quickest way. Switching everything on wont show divisibility / correct allocation . Once that's done switch the stats on one at a time as heating a zone that's cold is the quickest way to see what's what IMO. Edit : do you have a digital laser thermometer ?
  25. Nickfromwales
    Just remove and refit the actuator head / s for the kitchen as sometimes if not fitted / seated properly ( fully down ) they could allow very slight flow. You don't need much flow to get detectable heat in a well insulated slab BUT if there are two actuators and two loops in there I'd say there's more to it, like controls / programming etc.
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