Nickfromwales

Or to folk making a whole new home Who will then do £5k on worktops Value is in the eye of the beholder, so each to their own, ‘matey’

Plenty of options out there, these are what I suggested to the client for this particular project as they are far less conspicuous and the lighting plan doesn’t need anything competing with it for ceiling space / flow. £75 isn’t much money, and I only suggested these where they’re in the ‘eye line’.

Your detail there seems way OTT to me! Is that what your SE told you to do for a window?!

Levels of chlorine for a domestic pool are only a few notches up from drinking water tbh.

The image shows a deep recessed modular box which allows the lid to be shut with 2 items plugged in. You’re into 3 figures there I’d guess, as with these setups you buy a skeleton frame and then load in the modules as required.

HSE wouldn’t agree lol. 55v across for 110v supply, so a big jump to 230v and 🪦

Yes. And then you’d need the equivalent volume of incoming air available, via a transfer grille to outside, to allow that mode to be used effectively. The transfer grille can be a motorised damper which is used when the MVHR is in double extract mode, or otherwise it can remain closed to allow the MVHR to function in push / pull (normal) mode. What are your plans for space heating of the pool hall? Water usually sits at 30° or slightly above, so the pool hall will need to be higher than that to not make it feel cool or cold to bathers. UFH obvs not the best idea there. You need the garage and the pool hall to be two separate compartments, if using chlorine, and store the chlorine in an outside store and NOT in the garage.

I’ve fitted 4 Ergovent units for my current client, and I think they look the dachshunds danglers. We’ve looked at some slightly nicer ones (than the petrol station toilet ones that come as a knee jerk 🤢🤮👎) for the less frequented rooms. For bed 1, and the 3 in the open plan liv / dine / kitchen area, with nice new vaulted ceilings, I suggested we go for less conspicuous plaster-in units so the ceilings could lend themselves to lighting and have fewer wall (ceiling) warts to detract from that.

quoted from the link you provided. “This unit is speed controllable with the facility to reverse the supply air fan and provide 'double extraction' for periods when heat loss is desirable.”

On new builds we usually set up a load of festoon, going in and out of doorways NOT through studs, and flood the place with light throughout. Lost count of how many times I’ve returned after chippy’s and boarders have begun, and they’ve built over the festoon….. Would be different if they fecking paid for them I’m sure.

Architectural technicians seem far better value for money, and are usually sat behind the architect who’s fronting the show and commanding the money. Some are just SERIOUSLY underwhelming and others just dire. Some very good ones out there too, of course, but you need to apply a lot of filters and do the legwork to get to them; from a trail of breadcrumbs (recommendations etc). When I was cutting my teeth I used to look up to these folk, but now I challenge and push back (on my clients behalf’s) and it almost always bears fruit.

You need a better architect ffs !!!!!

Yup. There’s a blanking grommet on the end of the trailing tail, after the last light. Chop that off and make it off into a trailing socket

In summer I’d look at positively pressurising the pool hall and having a transfer grille to allow that air to escape (eg an openable window or slider?). Simple evacuation of the air should suffice, but only really y if implemented robustly. The link to that unit show text for ‘all out’ forced extraction, so the caveat there will be finding a way to offer up the same volume of air from atmosphere; this mustn’t ‘pull’ on the domestic ventilated space as that needs to remain in balance. Pools are a pita btw, sorry for the complex comments, but if it’s not done correctly you can have major issues develop slowly over time.

Ah. Just clicked that on that link (lazy Sunday, sorry) and that commercial unit is a very different beast! Sounds like you could just try the 4 seasons on that, and add stand-alone dehumidification if so needed (likely it will be, but that unit on max may just get you there).

Through-wall MVHR’s are generally crap, sorry. You’d need minimum push / pull (2 fans doing opposite jobs) to get the air moving. That deletes heat recovery of course, but it’s negligible anyways with a through-wall MVHR. Variable fan speeds is a must, as you have to leave these on 24/7, as they also take care of breathable air quality / humidity even when the cover is on and the pool hall vacated. Dehumidification is defo necessary, especially when the pool is being ‘enjoyed’, and water has been splashed about. Main house MVHR is neither here nor there, as these systems and ventilated spaces need to remain entirely segregated (ideally), so the house MVHR would have no impact or contribution to the functionality of the pool hall. Dehumidifier adds heat, so the negligible HR element of the through-wall MVHR can be offset there perhaps.

The 2x 10w tripod dual lights are crap. Bought a few for a job, just useless as you need to point them at what they are supposed to light. The festoon strings are much better, with 10w LED ES (not GLS as if you so much as sneeze they blow) and I fit a 110v trailing socket to the end of each one so you can plug the next string into the end of the first one, up to 4 strings is fine. Reduces the number of 110v outlets / spiders / extension leads needed. I buy the Defender ones from SFx. The only time you’ll need spare lamps is in the event of physical damage. Have 1x tranny dedicated to lights, and another for tools (if necessary). I made a bench and littered it with 7 or 8 230v 13a 2G sockets (over 3x RCBO’s in a temp CU) and they’re all used atm; a sea of different battery charges are now living there.

Would a parapet detail be more robust? Have you discussed this with the designer?

It’s not uncommon for these to be put in for inspection and completion, eg for the house to be ‘signed off’, and then burglars break in a week later and steal them, but sometimes the owners have a very poor memory and forget to buy new ones to replace the ones that went missing. 👀

We’ve been using Passive Purple again, on the current (now pretty much an EnerPHit level refurbishment of a masonry dwelling) and it’s good stuff. When you’ve lots of nooks & crannies to seal / tape, and a mixture of substrates, then this just seems to be a great product. This plus a boatload of FM330 foam, and some meticulous membrane and taping, should get us in good stead for the arrival (soon) of AeroBarrier to put the cherry on the cake. Anyone wanting to go airtight and are in need of a paintable solution, or one you can spray through a HVLP gun also, then chat to Adam and the team at Intelligent Membranes, and they’ll give you support and advice a-plenty. Great people who have bent over to help out with technical (and practical!) advice; both on and off site. 👍👌 They’ve expanded services and products a lot so worth checking out if they have anything to make life simpler / the job (and end results) better

Just supported with a full house install of Norrsken doors and windows. We used Bosig Phonotherm under the front door and sliders, very easy to work with and strong as a Trebor Extra Strong mint. Used liquid DPM under and over it, for belt and braces. A few days before they were due to go in I spotted some typos in the structural openings schedule. Bloody good job I did too, as the door and slider were different than stated. Door slightly smaller, and sliders ~35mm taller ffs. Pulled the head of the porch out and rebuilt it to suit, so even the big boys get it wrong.

We have Gordon Lewis arriving soon to pump 5.5 pallets of Warmcell. PYC are the suppliers. They usually send out orders every 4 weeks / monthly, so to minimise costs relating to delivery / logistics you need to fall in line with that. For this job the client has opted to pay for a unique delivery fee to align with Gordon’s ability.

Absolutely do not lay the tray over LVT! You need to primer the plywood and bond the tray down, usually done with flexible tile adhesive but you can check with the MI’s to see what they suggest. One key thing is to decontaminate the underside of the tray, as sometimes these have things like release agent etc or just a lot of dust from being refinished, and then nothing will stick to it. Set the tray in to the return walls with CT1 / similar and NOT silicone. Search in here for tanking / wet room / shower tray etc and you’ll see many of my ramblings on how to best achieve this. NEVER use a kit or other that has something that sticks to the tray, these are not a good product / idea imho, as you’re forever reliant on that adhesion.