Nickfromwales

Did you find out any info about the pros / cons of the two different sized coils? From what I read the HP likes the return as cool as possible so the bigger coil should win the day. Im still getting to grips with the science of the HP's so by no means an expert.....yet. Im booking myself in for a few HP training and product awareness courses shortly so that'll soon change. Knowledge is power, so im roughly 37% powerful, 66% bacon, 41% Tunnocks teacakes, and the remaining % im leaving for beer.

IIRC Telford manufacture for Joule.

Are you saying he's fitting electric UFH on the entire 1st floor, and setting it into SL compound? There are foil mats that go down without SLC to do this, thus saving several hundreds of pounds. Can you get as much detail on that environment of works as you can plz? Cost of UFH components and the supplier? Cost of electric UFH and the supplier? ( argue in both cases that you want good warranties etc if you need a cloak to go with the dagger ) Does that include manifold/s? Does that include manifold pump/s and blender set/s? Whose designed the UFH layout? eg number of loops per zone and the pipe spacings. YOU MUST KNOW THIS BEFORE THE SCREED GETS ANYWHERE NEAR THE HOUSE!! It cannot be rectified afterwards. UFH controllers and room thermostats? Does he think the boiler fitter will be "sorting all that out"? eg then you get another bill for change of £1k for the controls. You say the boiler will be supplied. Price and EXACTLY what boiler? If its a combi then you'll need a buffer tank to drive the UFH, so factor that into the airing cupboard so you know up front that you'll lose a bit of space in there but the heat won't go to waste, but most importantly that you get quotes from plumbers to do the correct job rather than 5-pipe jockeys who will bolt the boiler to the wall and scarper. What is the depth of the ground floor screed, and what is the M2 so I can get you a price to compare?

tool porn

No dopy, its so you can isolate the aav and remove it without draining the antifreeze out.

Go make some.

What are you waiting for then? .

Or....

All you need is a small gap behind it and then you go for a full foam jacket. Foam the lot, with the chrome parts masked with the supplied covers / shrouds and its job done.

I would have knee-capped you if you put curves on them.

It was like a facking beaver had attacked it. The thing to watch out for is the horrible twist grip thing on the arm that you swing to change the angle of the cut. Who the hell invented that piece of crap.? The Dewalt has a castellated ring where you just slide and it clicks to lock into place using a finder tip catch under the flip down secure lock 'tab'. That means switching from one angle to another takes seconds. The secure locking tab doesn't need to be used for the preset angles as the click stop is rock solid on its own, so you only need to drop the secure tab if you've gone between the clicks to an odd angle. With my other mates ( expensive ) Bosch there was still that twist lock thing that took an age to loosen and then re-tighten EVERY time you need to move it which is just such a PITA !!! D E W A L T

There is a tool that you won't regret the drive going to get. The rage are horrible for anything other than chopping up firewood imo, and the Dewalt is just a Rolls Royce in comparison. I borrowed my mates rage to do a bit of skirting, prior to buying the Dewalt, and I couldn't justify another cut after the first. Yuk. The Dewalt will see you through all the major stuff with just effortless ease and most of all, control. Then with a fresh blade, will see you through all the skirtings and architraves, kitchen plinths, cornice / pelmets etc as if a laser has cut them. I'd not be looking anywhere else at that money, and maybe the seller will chip a bit...........oh, no they won't, it's just sold. Gumtree near you? Worth a ring?

I'd use a circular for the I beams too. + 1 on buying a top notch used saw and then selling it afterwards. Get your chequebook out.

I kew we should have sent little Willy up the ladder

It'll just jam them further shut imo. EDIT ( lol ) that is 'it' not 'they'

All jokes aside, my Makita angle drill driver is one of my favourite purchases, even at 10.8 v. I will grab the 18v one as soon as I see one priced to suit my budget of zilch ( want vs need )

But then your short length wouldn't be an issue then I remain, as always, ungracious in defeat

Probably best to get a second opinion

@Construction Channel And for the 1st prize..... The welshman takes gold Dont let the door hit you on the ass on the way out

Its a TS so there is no variable load. The boiler has one of two targets to attain. In DHW 'summer mode' we've set it to heat the top of the TS to 65 iirc so the boiler ( which is now a dumb box on the wall set to do as its told and nothing more ( practice differs slightly from the theory as its logic tells it to modulate as it hits the drop off point )) and therefore should just go at full wallop until that stat clicks to satisfied, where it should go into overrun and then standby. Likewise with the lower stat, just it takes longer to get there., but its set to a lower temp as its all UFH eg lower grade heat, plus we wanted the solar to have some input as soon as possible. A big kick in the C@@k is the DHW pump, when running, fires the spillover heat from the DHW PHE directly into the lower 1/4 of the TS ( even when in summer mode ) so lovely roasting hot water is forced into the TS and causes the swirling that gave us the previously posted temp readings of hotter in the middle than the top. Go fecking figure that design I was half tempted to redirect that return back into the midriff but there weren't enough days in the window we both had. TBH we could have stayed there another 3-4 days yanking and tweaking, but it wasn't worth the "investment" as it will never be right without some serious 'material' alterations. Without picking this apart for its failings, it works, so a result afaic. But its still in the back of my head that we walked away without hitting 100% ( instead we left more than reasonably happy that we did what we could with what was there ). In a PM I called it "polishing a turd", guess ill never make it to the parish council "More tea, Vicar?"

Boffins corner for you two please?. I left school nearly two decades ago, and I'm not going back .

It's quite a clever boiler with 6 stage triac based heating output from 0 - 100%. It measures flow and return and indeed modulates quite ( if not too ) well.

If heating is called for, even for one room, the TS will take instruction from the lowest of the two cylinder thermostats eg 'winter mode'. The boiler will fire and go straight to max output as its trying to now heat the whole TS whilst heat is also being drawn out of it simultaneously. The reason the boiler sometimes lights and modulates quite quickly is that its in 'summer mode' ( DHW only ) and taking instruction from the upper cylinder stat, therefore the return temp gets up much much quicker and allows the boiler to drop its output accordingly, exactly how it should operate for the months of the year where space heating isn't required plus ST is generating too. If your drawing heat then the boiler is doing exactly what its been told to do eg replace it as quickly as it can, and as its not a gas boiler we don't need to worry about the temps of the return ( no need to maximise condensing efficiency therefore ). Another reason we've purposefully set the boiler to come on at full wallop at the first hint of duress is that the boiler is only 24kW and is, in my estimate, at least 50% undersized, so it needs to stay ahead of the curve to stand a chance of allowing the TS to do what its been asked to. In reality it should have had a ~35kW gas or oil boiler instead, or possibly the same electric boiler but its big brother ( 40KW iirc ) as the boiler thats there is definitely going to struggle if it gets dialled back from max.

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The HP installation kits seem very expensive for what they are. What did you pay and what was included if you don't mind me asking?