Nickfromwales

I demand to know who you've been talking to ! The panel looks good, but be honest, how long did you waste thinking about getting the word AQUAPANEL to go around that corner intact? Be honest..... Bond the life out of everything and then tank it. It'll be bombproof then. Get the goop of choice into the joints / corners etc prior to the next panel going in so you've got goop IN the joint as well as over it.

Only just

Do try and keep up lol.

Like your hubby by the sounds of things PMSL Enough now, we'll both get banned.

Ebay is good for bags, 20 packs are cheap enough. Get the cloth ones ( white ) not the paper ones.

And an even longer thread.

Admins..... wheres the 'puking my ring up' emoji ? Jeeee-fackin-sus. Thats the shits. Good on you for getting stuck in, but thats something else.

Its going on my bucket list

Never EVER speak ill of the Henry. Guys a legend and would suck a golf ball through a hosepipe. The amount of shit that gone in mine is ridiculous, but it refuses to die, and the suction is as it was the day I took him in. Buy one asap, used with warranty is good off eBay. Dont buy used without a warranty.

Maybe she's looking to inherit the house off you when its done

Here we go again......

Bacon heals all wounds After doing the Swansea DIY SOS about 2 years or so ago, I can vouch for that lot. Outstanding folk who wouldn't accept any gratitude, instead Mr Knowles told me that they did next to nothing other than put flyers in the merchants / media etc and we all just turned up and did all the work. And there were plenty of bacon rolls. Lol. You broke many, many boundaries. Like Roy Chubby Brown and Bernard Manning had a baby

I had thought of the camber. May be able to sort that directly over with a builders screed / SLC, but also why not do away with the B&B and go timber if there is no requirement for transferring loads to founds? One steel in the middle and string the rest of the span with treated joists. Just punting some ideas out there If your paying for an insulated system for block and beam then wouldn't timber be cheaper and better ? Is this 2- storey? Steel/s can go in to suit the stairs or any other critical point if necessary? 8"x3" joists at ~400mm centres would be rock solid, perform better thermally and accept the aluminium spreader plates directly.

Theres no I in team M'dam.

Why not do away with the concrete layer, change to higher performing 200kpa insulation and go for an overlay UFH solution integrating it into the 200mm? Would save you 75mm. The insulation can all be bonded down so theres no bounce, and the stud work would sit quite happily on bonded 22mm P5. Why the structural element to the concrete layer? Do you have to transfer weight down to the subfloor?

Doubling up with a thick DPC should suffice. Excellent point though as nothing could be worse than coming in the following morning and saying "where the hell has the concrete gone?!?"

Tell them to Fack off.They've been less than excellent, but if they wanted to build or extend they'd be the kind of folk who would expect you to put up and shut up. Crank up the drum & bass ( google it lol ) and leave your lights on all night whilst shouting loudly every 15 mins "Damn its too bright in here!"

Game, set and match.

Git.

Ok. With regards to screeds then I think you may get away with just screeding the lower floor ( kitchen / dining / living space iirc ) as there is little room to insulate AND screed. The subfloor is iirc 100mm concrete / B&B and we have about 60-70mm to play with on top. As @Hecateh is retired i'll favour turning that into a big storage heater seeing as the house will be 'lived in' rather than 'visited' eg not empty 9-5, this would be a better approach IMO. A nice comfortable background heat which will lend itself to the entrance level via the open staircase. Tres Bien. For the entry level floor I'm going to suggest either an 'overlay' UFH system or possibly ( cheaper option but still effective ) to lay battens, UFH aluminium spreader plates ( with 25mm of rock wool sat underneath to make the plates distended for good surface contact with the P5 ), UFH pipes, 18mm P5 flooring and then final covering ( Tile / Vinyl ). No wet stuff and no drying time = flooring down in record time. For the screed downstairs it'll just have to be left to dry, but we can use a semi-dry S/C ( sand and cement ) screed so drying time is minimised. My screeder is ok to travel so ill pull a favour and drag him out for a day . Not a huge problem as the kitchen will need fitting and finishing after screeding, during which the screed will be drying out naturally. If 3 or 4 of us go crazy I recon we could first fix the wiring in a day tbh, so just a team effort for that and job done. 'Start at 8, pub by 8' should be the drill me thinks. What more incentive would one need eh? Plumbing will be a doddle as its not exactly Downton Abbey lol.

Depends on how smelly you are when you get in from work cockles

Yup. Some vital bits of info missing from the OP Deffo a good choice for B&B imo. Certainly WAY better than what I've seen to date. Any additional depth under the void where you could add more insulation to the underslung element ? I recon these would largely be down to poor fitting / failed observations of the basics. With a thicker screed ( concrete would be my preference ) you could easily fit a 6mm mesh into that layer to mitigate against cracking and also to give it some serious weight for the laying and compression aspect. Dry S/C screed wouldn't really cut it at such a thin layer as you could only fortify that with fibres and hope for the best. So. @Russell griffiths whats the depths / heights etc please !! Edit : you could possibly use a stainless mesh with thinner screed maybe. Are you having UFH pipes in the 'screed'?

It reads ( to me ) that hot and cold pipework is customer supply, radiators already known, flow and return pipework is customer supply, and same with soil stacks. Everything should read 'supply and first fix' as all other supply items are stated clearly where its encompassed in the quote. Where there is a supply element its clearly and repeatedly stated. Time to double-check and get that re-worded accordingly?

What are your fabric and ventilation heat loss figures? Two I've just spec'd have worked out better going all elecric via PCM58 cells. No ASHP to buy / install / maintain / replace, no noise and no antifreeze to dump and replenish every 5 years or so at ~£500 a go. Oh and you don't have a big wart on your outside wall either. The SA are still a very good option if you compare closely what you get for your money. They're recent removal from sale of the PCM34's is a bit of a game changer for anyone with / intending to fit an ASHP I agree so they need to get that crease ironed damn quickly, but the PCM58's are still ( to quote a member ) "a very elegant" solution. 3-4 times the capacity for size compared to cylinders. Far lower losses. Modular boxes ( the 9kW and under fit under a kitchen worktop ) and no moving parts / components. 38,000 cycles and 3.8% degradation is bloody good from where I'm sitting. @Simplysimon Get the calculator out and see what your figures would look like if you needed no ASHP and could manage on E10. Reduces the cost of the SA units then to . You can buy a lot of E10 with the total savings !!

What size units did they quote / qty ?