Nickfromwales

Absolutely. Thats the reason I reside here. The fact that folk share experiences is utterly priceless and thats what helps others to refine their choices. I scour eBay daily for a second hand crystal ball, but alas the unicorn lady seems to snap them up before I can get a bid in.

Oh, and all the photos of the pipes / timbers / intersections will be invaluable for the ongoing trades. Top idea.

It heats up a lot quicker so is more able to match timed heating events. With 22mm of P5 over them, then 6mm ply, then tiles and adhesive there was no problem with the heat output at all. Only complaint I got was it worked too well so I dropped the flow temp down a bit. £175 for 40 plates here. So £4,850 in total to use pug mix. I think plates would have paid for a holiday ! Wowzers. Oh well, think of all that lovely thermal mass youve gained More pics as you progress please

No masking, water, or fence. Just more almonds Dusty, yes.

Marine ply most would shout, but just wbp for me.

It all comes out. That's the design. Have a single voddy and then revisit it.

I still don't see the attraction of the pug mix for UFH when spreader plates are so quick and simple. And not a bucket or cement mixer in sight. Plates, pipes and boarded in a day and a half. Agree though, neat job and a good clean workplace. What's the intended floor covering over the pug mix?

Take pics for what came from where. The main flush assembly quarter turns like changing a lightbulb.

No need for decoupling then IMO as the last floor I did over PJ at 600c was around 35m2. That was 22mm P5 ( D4 glued and screwed x5 per joist run, 2" No.10 screws ), 6mm ply glued and screwed at 120mm centres ( that needs to be observed religiously ), tile adhesive and 600x600 porcelain on top. Not a squeak and it also had wet UFH in spreader plates so goes through heat / cool cycles too. I know the dicks who fitted the joists too, so I doubt any strong backs went in or the joists were fitted properly either.

What's the m2?

Its 2018 mate. Where have you been? My 18v makita grinder with a diamond blade vs you huffing and puffing as you make squiggly lines ? Mine is serrated and flew through the 900mm x 450mm porcelain im currently battling with. Cut the letterbox out for the shower valve in under 2 minutes. Zoom Zoom.

Grinder across the bridge and then two wet cuts in.

Were actually taking shape now. "Praise the FU@@ing Lord".

Chain...... Yank......

Put it on and give it 5 mins to go tacky. Use a dry 4" roller to 'squeegee' the excess tanking out or it'll take ages to dry.

Tile adhesive should be after everything is fully tanked. Bed the blue flaps into more tanking.

Over 22mm P5 i use 6mm at 400c and 9mm over 600c. I've never laid a thicker ply that that other than to purposefully raise the floor. I put the glue down for ply over Egger with a vinyl floor layer trowel so the PVA has a 2-3mm notch. If there's movement in the Egger your screwed anyway as the tiles will still give. If the Egger has been gas nailed down they're usually 3 to a joist. I always fix 5 10x2" per joist so would recommend screwing next to every nail and ensuring there's 5 fixing to a joist.

Go grab the squelch mat from under the redundant hot tub. .

I don't ever use the backer board, as in not once in over 20 years of bathroom fitting. The Egger is a stable interlocking floor already glued and screwed / nailed so why backer board is even in the equation is a mystery to me. If it were over crappy old floorboards then I'd half understand it, but not a candidate here afaic. Sticking a rigid board down on top of a gun adhesive is nuts. There will be loads of area where there is no contact between the board and the deck so a bad idea IMO. Hardie don't as per this vid Why not just glue and screw plywood down like I always do? Not lost a patient yet ?

Why are you asking about priming with something that doesn't say primer on the tub Sensible questions from now on please ! :-/ No need to worry about expansion joints / grout lines at the floor / wall junction. The tanking strip will take care of that for you Just run a bead of CT1 around to fill any major gaps before tanking and applying the strip.

+1 Slapping more over anywhere that looks shy isn't a problem, but you want to first do the walls where the adhesive filled the gaps which tbh you can get on with now. The wetfloor area needs tanking through the day whilst you arse around elsewhere and then tiling the following day. As your on a slab, it'll absorb any water from scrapes or dings, so get the tiles all cit, honed and dry laid, number them up, and get a chuffing mix on boyo. "It is time, my young crappprentice".

Some just price loads of work and wait 'until one bites'. I hope you didn't ask the other guy for the £2 change ??

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Piece-Diamond-Knife-Tools-Sharpening-Stone-Set-Fine-Extra-Fine-Coarse-Grade/311816827397?epid=1642502886&hash=item4899bb3205%3Ag%3ASKoAAOSwU-pXvxHh&_sacat=46576&_nkw=diamond+sharpening+stones&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l2632.R2.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xdiamond+shar.TRS0

Looking good TBH. As these are ceramic you may need to paint the upper part of the cuts as the grout wont stay flush or proud after sponging back. You don't want to see the terracotta. Car spray paint, and it'll cover the bits of breakout too if you mask up well enough. Most instances don't see two cut edges butted up with a groutline so deffo worth considering IMO. "we've come this far !"

Good lad