Nickfromwales

Yup. Tile the vertical wall all the way up first and then mitre bond the trims on so you can set the mitres perfectly. Then do the two side tiles, then the base tile, leave to set and do the top with stilts to hold it up off the base tile.

Big nasty gun that fires short nails into steel. Dont point at your foot lol.

Also, wtf is a coat of paint going to actually do in a fire? Heat will twist the steel into knots, paint or not, and by the time you’re going to be asking that question you’ll be rebuilding the house anyway so just whack the paint on, enjoy the 30mins ‘get out safe’ time the PB and plaster will afford you and move on with that option if BCO is ok with it

Ever build Stixall was what I used on Mermaid panels and you get a good 5-10 mins to apply and position / reposition vs the solvent grip fill types of adhesive / sealants. Gripfill is quite shit to use on anything that takes more than 20 seconds to apply and set into place. I’d avoid GF completely for this job.

I’d do away with the UVC and fit a TS with a solar coil. Your additional standing losses would negate the effort IMO. Would the buffer be situated where the waste heat from it would lend itself to space heating ?

6mm x 400mm auger bit in the cordless drill. Zoom zoom, squirt of finest tree assassin solution, tap a piece of cork in the offending hole and wait. If push comes to shove. ?

Re, tank. It dries fast.

These are quite pleasant.

You dont have to use Wundas stats Find out if theyre 230v signalling or 12 / 24v / other and then you can look at stats you like the look of and mix n match. What your looking for is called a 'programmable room thermostat' btw.

God, its even worse if the plumber hasn't wired it I make a lot of money wiring up systems for my mates ( gas safe plumbers ) who can just about wire a plug If the sparky has been left with this task then I feel sorry for him tbh. If he wants to ring me I can talk him through it.

Id say the 2 courses under the third row were too far to the right rather than the third too far to the left? That would close up the 'pencil' gap too. You should find the adhesive isn't yet fully cured so they should be reasonably easy to get off. If you have to break a tile remember that it'll grow in size when it breaks so beware of it expanding and damaging the adjacent 'keepers'. No-one said it was going to be easy. Stick with it. ?

What do you need from each stat? Temp only / temp + time clock etc ? Are you having a central hub to set times etc ?

Its a wiring issue. Its simply not been wired up correctly, as if it had the motorised valves would be opening and allowing flow through. Theyre not, eg its not operating correctly. Get this nugget back to site in the next few days or get someone else and bill him.

No defence to SA here, but the unit is worth the effort imo. They need a new ambassador SOON as I’m also struggling to get any sense.

Some say IP20 and others ( the one I linked ) say IP40 Zone 2 + 3?

They are 12v ( S.E.L.V. ) from a separate transformer so no need for the IP stuff afaik. @ProDave @Onoff ?

I'll just check with And................FECK.

Could you perhaps update with regards to how your getting the SA units 'signed off' as member @mike2016 is struggling, ( more with his architect the with SA I imagine ).

You really wouldnt want to put the hot water tank outside ! If you have a garage or similar where the elements could be kept off it at least then id consider an airing cupboard affair with a good bit of rock wool insulation stuffed inside to keep it wrapped up and minimise lost heat.

Yes indeed, an ambassador I think they could ill afford to lose. I shall invite their sales director to participate and pick up any questions here, but I fear he's now a very busy chap !

The hot water version of the SA unit ( the eHw ) has one pipe in, one pipe out and a 3-core flex. If you can change the spare tire on your car you can fit one of those.

Hi all. Just a heads up, that member @AndyT has announced his retirement from Sunamp, and is now no longer with the company. I am going to meet up with Andy soon for a social visit and will ask if he wishes to remain on Buildhub as a private member, but in the meantime please do not call on him for SA related questions as you will not receive an answer. I'll update on Andy's wishes as and when I get to speak to him. Best wishes to him for a long and enjoyable retirement.

Sadly, AndyT has recently contacted me to announce his retirement. He has subsequently handed in his notice and left SA. He's being missed already tbh

@JSHarris, what constitutes a SA registered installation? Im still none the wiser as to what you need to "be" to fit and commission a SA. Is it as simple as abide by the Manufacturers Installation Instructions? There's no G3 so apart from an electrician making off the power supply, what gives? @le-cerveau how did you achieve this status?

IIRC the SA eDual is a high SAP rated appliance, so may get you off the hook vs the Steibel. Ask your assessor and maybe ring SA to see what points it gets ?