Nickfromwales

@DRT if you haven’t noticed that thread is a year old too. No probs blowing the dust off as every bit of additional info is of value, just in case you were hoping for some immediate feedback. This looks like it’s time for a new inverter from a more robust manufacturer.

Adding the wood (TF) section does complicate this, seemingly unnecessarily. Plates for ceiling rafters and roof rafters can be done quickly and simply to connect those.

Just thought it best for a quick sanity check. One can get quite lost going down various hypothetical rabbit-holes, when it’s all you keep staring at.

She seems way too happy about ladders. Do you get much snow?

Yup. I’ve allowed to insulate the flow and returns along the lengthy landing area, to ensure any heat we introduce is going exactly where I want it to.

What areas are you using it in?

Not had great experiences with Nu heat previously either. And pricey.

Not assuming anything, simply answered your question Its not a small one iirc.

I’m working on an MBC PH project atm and we’ve had this chat. Defo going to install UFH on the FF, but I’ve spec’d it for only 70-80% of each of the room floor areas to be heated, due to the anticipated minimal heating requirements. I’ve asked MBC to make some changes to the upstairs construction to allow me to get alu spreader plates in as quickly as possible when they get up to wall plate height. Planning that to happen on a Thursday / Friday so we can ask MBC to stand down so the install of all the ff UFH can be done over a long (bat-shit crazy) weekend……I am well aware that MBC will be champing at the bit again at 07:00 on the Monday morning(!!) so I’ve got a few good people lined up to help out as it’s quite a big (400m2 iirc) house. After the slab detailing for ductwork, my next joy is going through heating and cooling / plant etc, and have planned some fan coils to blast the FF landing (full height, fully glazed gallery aspects each side) to scavenge unwanted stagnant heat away. Some powered Velux windows will step in early for a bit of passive purge, so the reliance on cooling or more specifically cooling under duress is mitigated against at the design level. Hopefully it all works at the end or I’ll have to move house. Lol.

Because upstairs are bedrooms, and each are individual…..to the individuals in them! Why would you not zone, and then rob yourself of any degree of control? The swing from north to south is considerable, and this cannot be rubber stamped from one project to another, particularly if there’s any discernible glazing featured.

Done. ✔️ Editing ability times out btw.

Get over it lol. They’re very good bits of kit for not much money tbf, if you can survive off fairly rudimentary controls. Anything complex, get yourself into the Stiebel Eltron stuff. The controls are just inarguably good for more bespoke stuff with multiples of different temp zones etc. Its annoying that someone doesn’t (appear to) do anything off the shelf (and manufacture coordinated in one instruction book) for a more middle of the road price tag.

Why not Panasonic? Cools out of the box, very good units and quiet too. Done a few of them (and some Stiebel Eltron units too) and I’m very impressed for the money tbh.

If you set off at 00:30 you'll be on site for 07:00

The crack is very likely to be installer error imho. They have likely screwed through the frame and into the masonry way too close to the corners; the effect of then overtightening these fixings just places huge force of the welded joints, forcing them to pop open. A way to prove (or disprove) this would be to remove the glazed unit and inspect where the fixings have been placed.

It can be set in behind the PB here as there's 60mm to play with to the back of the PB as above As for the adjustable lug, good point, but if you use a spirit level sat across some long plate screws you can get it spot on with near zero effort.

https://www.belmdoors.com Any takers here?

Not many would take the risk of omitting the secondary (industry standard) line of defence; the DPC at floor level. There are no guarantees with the subfloor DPM/DPC so it’s certainly not an abundance of caution, more a sensible, standard methodology which give you the obligatory belt, and accompanying braces Do as the Welsh fella says, and you’ll live happily (and dry) ever after. The end.

These do look very ‘cool’. All you need is a bloody good metal roofer who can fab these kind of things in their sleep.

PIR tends to need to be mechanically fixed though, whereas insulated XPS backer boards can be bonded on and won’t pull away. With PIR you’re reliant on the foil staying ‘fully stuck’ to the core, and that’s not always great after cutting it into small sections and the foils began to tear away. Any box would be better than metal here afaic, so if there’s > 60mm to play with then a fast fix box would work well too.

The kicker with leaving pipes exposed to connect to later down the line is preserving their condition. So add that to the list of reason not to go for the joints under the slab / screed option. But it is an option.

For a sanity check here, the 16mm couplers I have used a good number of times to do repairs (which have all been buried and covered over) are still A1 today. If these are made off carefully then there is no more reason for these to fail as the ones made off to the manifold; difference being the ones in the slab are never going to be subject to mechanical damage (being hit or pressed up against etc). You absolutely can do this, if it’s the only option. If you lift these out of the floor somewhere where you can then connect to them later on, you’ll have to make those upstands off so they are T’s with air bleed (vents) as this will be a trap for air. UFH pumps around very slowly, so these would airlock if you don’t have provision to routinely vent them (or you can fit automatic air vents which do this whenever air is caught). The pressure in the UFH circuits will never see more than 3bar, and the normal operating pressure is 1-1.5bar, so these don’t have the same as cold mains pressure or higher to deal with. How far is it from the break in the floor to the manifold location? You could fit flexible conduits and do more loops of a smaller (12mm) pipe which would easily pull through 25mm flexible conduit if you lay them sympathetically.

Great post, thanks for sharing here. Can you use the ASHP to cool? Doing that for a few hours in the afternoon to early evening may help knock off 1° which would be quite significant for having cooler rooms when you are looking retire each evening.

Just make sure you foam or mastic any gaps either side of the blocks so the SLC doesn’t just disappear down south.

Yup. CT1 to hold both the XPS to the steel and the box to the XPS. Don’t use bare XPS as it’s quite friable, get something like Jackoboard or tile backer board, the type with the grey gritty surface coating to accent adhesives, and that’ll hold up much better. I’d use a pvc conduit back box here, and defo not a metal one here. You can still bury that and plaster to the edges of it, so zero chance of cold getting any further from the steel than you want. The conduit boxes aren’t as fragile as the regular surface mountable back boxes, as they’re made from a different, softer plastic. Link Tbh the entire rising faces of this steel should be clad with the insulation material, not just where the socket box is.