Nickfromwales

Your doing fine, remain calm. Grout WILL save the day I get my kegs in a twist on nearly every job before grouting it. The mitres will be ok after a whiff of grout. Chill winston.

Quite simple. Just T out of the cold main AFTER the softener and run a large bore ( 32mm ) MDPE out to where the garage / acc’r may end up. Just cap that off and leave it for later.

Agreed. Just goes against the ( my ) grain to have the 15mm restriction in 22mm line. A changeover setup to make it an ( emergency ) diversion device would be ok and I believe a lot of 24 hr fast food restaurants do so. My ex apprentice used to do that in KFCs. They accepted low flow during duress eg until the UVCs could be repaired, but meant they could keep trading. I’d say for a couple without children etc it would be fine, eg no different to a decent combi.

The only problem is the low flow rate ( 15mm connections ) vs the very high flow rate from the UVC that would be feeding it. A bit like someone standing on the garden hose and you see the drop in flow, except it would be permanently there.

For cooling you just arrange the motorised valves so that they align the ASHP flow and return solely and directly to the UFH manifold.

Last one I had issue with was a non return single check valve on the hot return. As it was directly after a 90o bend the water was causing the valve to oscillate and just moving it a few inches further from the bend made it go silent. Funny thing, water ( or hydraulic dynamics ? ).

The SA units are very simple to plumb in and wire up, its just that initial sense of the unknown. I imagine it was the same when UVC's and TS's arrive on ones doorstep and folk look at the many controls and various tappings and think WTF are they all for / where do they each go etc, so just a case of a better bit of understanding is required IMO. The sticking point is deciding which of the range of units, and what size ( kWh capacity ) and temp range ( PCM 34 or PCM 58 ) is best suited to the application. After almost year of being 'interested' in the product I have now got a good understanding of how to specify and install these units, but its taken a while to fully grasp what they do and how they do it. Its vital to get the unit type and size right, but again, no different to specifying an UVC or a TS tbh, other than the fact that the latter have been around for a long time and there are plenty of knowledgable fitters out there now. Lets remember that the SA is still a very new product to the market, another 'problem' if you can call it that. The SA manual shows the different applications but they really need deciphering to convey whats going on and how its happening, and even I have to sense check things with the folk at SA so make sure I'm on the right track. If its just for DHW then it couldn't be easier. Cold water in, and hot water out. A cable to connect to a 13a fused spur and your done. The complication arrises when you wish to do space heating AND DHW from SA's, as thats far more complex a calculation. @Big Neil what is it you want to do ? I've no problem PM'ing you my mobile number, but it'd be a shame to keep the conversation off forum as thats not how a library or discussion board works. Take 5 and type out what you want to achieve and we'll do out best to explain here, for the benefit of yourself and others.

Slate or porcelain tile ?

Ok, gotcha.

All or fcuk all mate I don’t do half measures.

I hope NAPIT aren’t reading this lol. ?

When my mate was running a big PA and lighting rig we made up 2x 13a plug to 1x 32a C-form splitters to max out the double sockets. Yes, I shudder.

Whichever you feel right with I do it so there is a slight lip because ceramic isn’t as straight as the trim is.

We’ll struggle to get Jedward tbh ?

The deed has been done. Up front fees paid to NAPIT, after talking to the very helpful chap on the phone. Laid it out bare, zero quals, mostly self taught from the school of hard knocks. 45 mins on the phone and after some questions ( 3 were trick questions I’m sure, designed to separate the wheat from the chaff at the outset ) and my 1st basic competency course is booked. A day and a half first to let me show them I’m not a bell-end hoping to chance his way through, which includes wiring a power and lighting circuit and testing it in front of an examiner and then they’ll give me rights of passage to fast-track my 18th edition. They said I could probably pass the one day, but I opted for the 3 day with the idea being that 3 times more will sink in and for the extra ~£200 for the extra 2 days I think it would sensible to, and possibly arrogant not to. Ill update after the first day and a half. ? Bonjour!

I’ve tried lol. The rip at the back will be covered by the endless quantity of crap that you know 100% will live there. Cut the tiles, stick them on, and crack the FCUK on spongebob. ? Xmas is fast approaching ! ?

I cut the bottom piece and bond it to the top of the tile. Then the left, then right. Top last. Watch they're not leaning forward or back otherwise the mitres won't be parallel.

Heads usually die because the valve bodies are gummed up and difficult to move

Run it into the ground and dont waste a single penny on it. Drain down and throw a couple of these in. That'll stir the crud up and then drain down and refill in a month ( a month of heated use ).

Timber frame is lighting fast. Turnkey ( from slab to rainproof shell ) is relatively stress free in comparison to you organising individual trades. Also one person for liability and warranty then too. No brainer AFAIC.

Work from the ground up, one elevation at at time. Silicone isn't far behind it tbh.

20p sizes blobs of Sikaflex at 3” centres would be ? Prime the ply with the flexible tile primer. 50/50 and soak it.

Not gripfill or it’s hard setting non flexible friends ? Needs to set relatively hard but not unforgivingly so like gripfill. Nothing water based / soluble.

Every day is a school day my friend ?

See your kebab, and raise you a king prawn tandoori masala ✌️