Nickfromwales

So you'll be looking at a 900 x 600 K1 ( aka single ) and fitting some oyster tails or an insert DOC to get the gap made up. £39 quid. Get in the car. rad valve drain off

Don’t know tbh. I just go and buy a radiator at that stage. Cheap enough to not f*** about. ? Link £60 for a P+, but you’ll prob be ok with a single convector. £45 or so prob. How much is your time and that kit worth ? And that’s if it works and the rad isn’t rotten out at the point where you drill.

Order a couple of each to get started and see which is the one with the plasterboard best bonded onto the PIR. I’ve had some where the two have separated and that’s bloody annoying. Storing these perfectly flat is paramount, and again some boards have arrived with a cup in them from being stored poorly, on a knackered pallet etc, and I’ve had to store them the other way around to retrain the board to be flat. Quality of the board is one thing, but discipline of the supplier is another key consideration.

Prob not at this time. It’s most prob the input T connector that is blocked, hence the long fill time. Prob a hole in the middle of the crud the size of a knitting needle. That’s a common problem with F&E and I often back fill with a hosepipe with a lad up the attic watching for levels in the header tank. If you can find that T, better to cut it out tbh but I wouldn’t worry about that until you drain down next.

I’m switching my phone off.........

Probably the tee connection where the F&E connects is crudded up. Quicker to backfill through a drain off but without making the F&E tank overflow!!

Snug.....

Up to 75% off if you're quick!!!

May the force be with you......

Add the cleaner after You can cheat that rad by lifting it off its brackets with the valves hand tight ( into the rad not onto the pipe ) and then run the system with the top of the rad as the lowest part. When full, lock off the rad valves, swing it back up onto the brackets and best you can hope for for now tbh. Top job with the rest of it ?

Stick with whatever is easiest tbh. It's not worth losing sleep over 15mm always to showers / baths, and 10mm to basins. WC's remain a bone of contention because some take an excessively long time to fill back up on 10mm feed. Geberit etc makes no odd's as the tiny flexi inside the cistern s about 6mm or 8mm so restrictions are present there anyhoo..... All 22mm. ?

Ok. Will need the LLH and another pump to circulate LLH > manifold.

No two cases the same. Depends on distances etc.

Yup, the 10mm works surprisingly well.

It could go above I think. Does that pipework head upwards to the manifold?

Every sizeable dwelling gets this discipline installed as standard. I never leave specifications to a client tbh. I make them aware ( at the quote stage usually ) of what will be installed and why. I don’t get into that degree of being micro-managed as people are asking for my professional opinion vs them wanting to go to a cheaper option due to bean counting. Clients could demand that I do it a certain way and I can then either cover myself with signed caveats, or refuse to do the job, particularly if I felt that was going to be more laborious for me ( what bean counters often decide to selectively overlook ) or to the detriment of the finished system and its reliable ( and robust ) operation. Hepworth manifolds have a good waterway and allow flow through with relative silence, but cheaper ball valves / other isolators can be both restrictive and noisy by comparison. For @Russell griffiths job I’d be feeding both ends of the manifold with water, so a bit like a ring. Costs aren’t a million miles away from ‘normal’ plumbing when you discount all the joints, costs of additional fittings, increased liabilities and the number of times you’ll have to drain down and refill during the course of an entire build. Ive had such good results with the manifold system why do anything else? “Tried and tested”. Members here with the traditional arrangement have given poor feedback on the amount of time it takes to get hot water out of the taps with the primary distribution having been in 22mm everywhere, or even worse, starting in 28mm ?. Not for me sir, no thanks.

+1

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-LOW-LOSS-HEADER-HYDRAULIC-BALANCER-25kW-1-INSULATED/293485375133?hash=item4455176e9d:g:5WAAAOSwmfhX4qyi Something like this.

Have you checked that the radiator valves are fully opened?

3 mins down the road from me lol. Sounds deffo like a small buffer would sort it, just down to having some ( more ) room to fit it. You may be able to get away with just a low loss header if the lowest base loads aren’t a million miles away from the lowest burner setting for heating. I’ll ask my mate ( who loves everything WB ) if that can be dialled down on that boiler. Maybe a call to WB tech support would get an answer quicker.

Don’t be scared about having a big one Will suit your build timelines perfectly with you being able to connect and test over time / as you go. ?

If the OP has 16 x cold feeds ( assuming 3 x WC’s / 2 x cold mains appliances ) that’s 11 outlets requiring cold supplies ( so also assuming 11 hot supplies ) then the cold supply would need to get to at least the first two bathrooms in a minimum poor size of 22mm. Same for the hot, but the hot more like starting off in 28mm, then picking up the first bathroom, and then 22mm from there forward, and then reducing to 15mm as seen fit. Really if a bathroom is the last item then you can’t drop to 15mm until you’ve picked up the shower & bath. So, a minimum of 26 x T connections if you don’t adopt a radial manifold setup and fingers crossed after you’ve tested initially and boarded up. Another benefit is that for a new / self builder, you can just bring on items as work progresses, so no need to keep draining down / connecting / re-pressurising each time you add a new item. And, the party piece is hot return and flow rates. With a large single bore series setup you’ll be waiting for a very long time to get hot water out of basin sinks in particular as they are low flow / high frequency use and by the time hot had got there you’d have got fed up waiting. Pressure and flow rates are as uniform as you can get too, so question has to be.....why wouldn’t you do it? Not having isolations on the end of every run / at each outlet is a no-brainer, as most modern bathrooms won’t have somewhere for such valves to be easily / practically accessed, particularly for baths and showers etc. Regular ( series ) 0 Manifold ( radial ) 1 ( well 4 actually ).

Not going to happen. My pissed tiling is better than your sober ones ✌️??

You know that if you hadn’t done that, one of us would have come there and done it for you. See, a night off, and now some clarity. Buy some new tiles and make peace with your inner grouting line self. And breathe.......

25mm2 4-core and loop it back on itself as a ring @ProDave? Equivalent of 50mm2 then so 16a would be achievable reliably ( given a consideration is likely here for diversity ).