Nickfromwales

Did you ask Samsung how the TV works, or do you just switch the chuffing thing on and watch the nice picture?

yup. and yup.

Turning the rotary dial should be set to master override ( temporary override to be precise ) and will kick the system in regardless of the timed setting. That's so you can boost the heating sporadically and not have to interfere with timed settings or the current program. Understanding the A-Z of this at this time is a little over the capabilities of most as it's not a regularly discussed topic and nor do I think does anyone else have a split. Mention of this being quiet....how would anyone without a split know?!? Mention of a nigh time setting.....doesn't have one, just a set primary temp for 'heating' flow and a set temp to achieve on the room thermostat that it will use that primary temperature water to achieve said set temp eg by running that heated water through the radiators. Simple. If you want a night time setting aka set-back, then just manually set the dial to that temp and the ASHP will take over the thinking for you eg it will give little flow on a reduced curve and be of less nuisance. If the heating return stays cool and the stat doesn't get satisfied then the system will adjust and the ASHP will be told to up its game a little until internal conditions are met.

Just turn it up when asked....... Yup, aka 'weather compensation'. The ASHP will increase it's output to compensate for the lower temp / lower it when milder. It's so the heating curve is more palatable. @zoothorn that translates into cooler running rads when it's not baltic outside ( basic terms ). The outside unit and inside unit talk to each other, and if the system is struggling to get the house up to temp the controls will take over and the outside unit will be told to 'get it's finger out and "dump in more heat". The controls are sophisticated beyond most people's comprehension, so explaining every nut and bolt is just impractical. Hence the request for some rudimentary commands being given to cut to the chase.

You're being told asked to do something so that the folk helping can ascertain how to help / what could be at fault. Turning it up to 22-23oC will put the system into a curve that makes the heat pump ramp up. Peter wishes to see what effect that will have on the system performance so that he can continue to help you. Prob best to do as people ask, or how are they going to be able help you?

Is there a mix of UFH and radiators? Any other zone valve / heating zone(s) / controls involved? Just one household thermostat / Ctrlr? To answer you actual question ( lol ) there will be a need for a live core and a CPC ( earth ) in the same cable minimum. Therefore you will need a 3-core flex, 1.0mm2 in size, PVC / PVC type. You will use the brown and the earth, the blue can be a redundant core. If you buy 2-core flex you won’t get an earth conductor, just blue and brown The earth MUST be connected if it’s carrying 230v. You could use a smaller cable as you only need to be = or > the amp fuse rating in the fused spurs 3a or 5a should be in them max.

You can’t change to all 2-port !! Oil boiler needs an always open overrun path. Good point. Isn’t the air separator where the F&E tee’s in? Forgot about that.

FYI, those types of valves I rarely fit on heating systems unless I’ve specifically ordered full bore. Use hundreds on potable water ( mains pressurised systems not gravity ) as on pumped or gravity there should be little or no resistance. But, if the heating was working before, it should work after too, so a bit stranger. The pump you changed out, that was a different head pump 25 x vs 15/60 ( 60 denotes 6m head ) so I doubt the replacement pump is up fit much as it’s an UFH circulator and knows it will never be asked to pump one up one down etc. Google the spec as the pics are blurry.

If that’s a 22mm valve, then maybe a regular bore as full bore tend to be ‘fatter’ at the valve body ( usually wider than the nuts on the end ). That appears to be about the same ? I’ll dig one out of the van tomorrow to have a comparison.

If the pipe failed anywhere they’d look to point the finger of blame anywhere. Being sure the Hepworth insets fully seat and seal into an alien manifold is another consideration. I won’t be mixing and matching for anybody if I am going to be liable for a catastrophic failure. Water causes a LOT of damage, and that’s if you’re home to stop it. If not, it’s humping out until you discover it. Save a couple of hundred quid elsewhere.......?

https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/hep2o-brass-manifolds-c661/hep2o-four-port-valved-manifold-15-tm-tf-fp-p21691 Remember you can’t mix JG Speedfit manifolds with Hepworth pipe. Has to be like for like for manufacturers warranty to remain intact.

What fittings?

Just a Friday one where the sweat shop orphan missed it.

It’s a Rolls Royce bit of kit with all the stuff you’d have to fit externally all set into one unit. What more could anyone possibly want? The isolation valve in question is a pump isolation valve so you don’t have to drain down / get air locks when you change the pump. Jeeeez......tough crowd ?

Really? If an installer doesn’t check all in line flow valves are open then that’s now the fault of a bit of kit is it? No, it’s not. ?? Not checking pump / gate valves are open is 1st year apprentice error. I’ve not had one yet which has caused any issues.

What’s the point if no UFH? OP also states a disability, and an already poured slab, so raising the threshold may be an issue?

FYI, @Ricardo64, you do not have enough floor insulation to even think about UFH You'd need about 140mm minimum of slab insulation ( on top of the slab you have now ) to get an efficient system. That is said with your comment about heating this 24/7, as energy efficiency will be of paramount importance here. You can use the wifi options on the air con units to "set back" the temps overnight, eg when unoccupied you can set it to a minimum of say 17oC and then set it to 20.5oC for occupancy. I REALLY hope you are putting a large timber section in the roof ( at least 150mm ) so you can stuff it full of rockwool insulation, and the walls need to be minimum 120mm, rockwool again, and then ( ideally ) an insulated plasterboard used throughout internally to keep the heat requirement down? £2k is a bloody tight budget to do the whole thing?? You can just fit the air con units ( heating AND cooling with those btw ) in a poorly insulated building if you simply do not have the budget, and they will work. You'll just have to pay the increased electricity bills for not having insulated sufficiently. The air con unit should heat for the equivalent cost of burning gas, if installed in the correct circumstances.

Whoa there fella!! Ground source for a garden room is a little OTT Change of £500 Link Change of £900 Link So +1 to @ProDave. Don't fit any screed, just put EPS 100 down and finish it 44mm short of your floor covering. Then lay 2 layers of 22mm P5 T&G boards on top of the insulation and that's you done and dusted I use that method for garage conversions mostly, and with excellent results. Don't forget the DPM!

Hot manifold adjacent to the water heater is best practice, and implementation of an HRC ( hot return circuit ) is always gauged on the dwelling. It depends on how far away your basin and sink taps are from the manifold tbh. You could shift the hpt manifold to a strategic centralised location and just have the ( HRC ) running between the UVC and the manifold and then leave as is.. Two current jobs for eg's; HRC to hot manifold at the hot water device, kitchen sink as last point of draw off on the manifold to promote flow across the whole manifold ( pre-heat ), HRC pump only pulling back from the kitchen sink therefore the whole hot manifold is warmed routinely hugely reducing waiting times at the other reasonably close outlets. Timer to be fitted for the HRC pump so that operation is in line with activity / occupancy.. HRC to hot manifold at the hot water device, HRC pump pulling back from the 2 upstairs bathrooms ( wash hand basins only ), manifold 'warmed' / 'pre-heated' as above, micro-PIR's to be fitted under each of the 2 wall-hung vanity units to trigger the HRC pump. Same PIR's to be used to also bring on ( automatically ) the night-time 'pee lights' under the vanity. Manual lighting circuit will be set to bring pee & other low-level lights on constantly for chilling in the bath ( so no overhead spots need to be on, and no disco lights from the PIR ). Timer to isolate pee lights during daylight hours if necessary. All depends on the layout of the house, so if you add distances to the basins / sinks from the UVC I can recommend something for you.

@Jeremy Harris fitted a neon indicator to his and was told ( iirc ) that it was responsible for the PCB blowing, and he was warmed off doing anything similar again or his warranty would be void....... The new UniQ’s have inboard electronics with a wealth of 4 x LED’s to show various guestimates. Think they’re more for silencing the crowd vs giving accurate data tbh.

I’ll learn you good, just you wait and see ?

Circulation or lack of it will be down to air locks most prob. Single pope is a da k of ? on a good day. Putting a cold mains on drain offs and firing short sharp 2-pints-at-a-time blasts of water in under pressure may help shift things a bit. The pump ‘hunting’ is knackered. That’s all the good news I can give you for today. At least until I’m pissed later and then I’ll let rip ?????

Don’t forget the big plastic storage tank that you’ll need in the attic to give you any kind of “reasonable” hot water pressure. Then the grief of getting mixer taps / showers etc that can deal with mixed ( unbalanced ) hot and cold supplies........ Then adding noisy pumps and complex plumbing arrangements to suit if you want a nice powerful shower....... C’mon grandad, it’s almost 2021!! ?

Are you putting flux on the solder as well as the pipe and fittings? With 28mm it’s good to re-introduce flux during the soldering of the joint. And yes, I could have told you that a few days ago, but I thought you were all trained up on soldering after the bathroom / other plumbing. ?

Perfect time to fit the new radiator ?