Nickfromwales

Looks good ?

OK. Why is there a bathroom on hard and a bathroom / other stuff on soft? Why the pressure valve? I assume you mean PRedV ( pressure reducing valve ). One will come with, and need to be fitted to the UVC. That valve ( serviced by soft water ) will have a balanced cold outlet for soft feeds to all mixer taps, so would need to go to a soft cold manifold fed from the 'control group' at the UVC. The UVC must NOT be serviced after all the other cold feeds. It must have "cold mains priority" which means 22mm pipe feed from the cold mains direct to the UVC WITHOUT anything drawing off in between ( in an ideal world ). If this is being done from scratch then I would observe this discipline religiously. Outside taps should be outside off the rising cold mains, but if they have to be T'd off internally and taken through external walls then they need to be T'd in AFTER the stopcock, but BEFOFRE the 1st PRedV without exception. The above drawing needs to be scrapped sorry, loads of faux pas there. Ask questions, we'll answer them

Doesn't look 'novice' to me. Are you Tommy Walsh? C'mon.....fess up !!

Is it the Wedi stuff you've used? I've done a lot with that and never had a single failure. Good system with a whole family of complimenting products, but don't miss one out or you'll lose the warranty. ( Same with Impey ).

OK, so you've gone belt and 3 braces then Nice job ! Just lay an inch or so of clear CT1 where the shower screen wall profile hits the junction, and wipe any excess away with cheap baby wipes. Stops the water that lingers there becoming problematic, but in your instance is a mere insurance addition to the water-proofing that you've already observed. Pics would be nice if/when possible please.

Have you grouted the gap between the wall tile and the floor / tray etc? Silicone should reinforce that, not replace it. Also, have you siliconed the tray to the wall BEFORE fitting the shower screen, just where the screen profile sits?

Crackers?

Good point. You need to specify "non slip" or you may end up with a decorative tray not a functional one.

Were you very time-constrained? I've had textured trays in as little as 5-7 working days.

What do you have on the floors? Tiles? My bet is @Vijay will go for a good quality LVT for non-slip and ease of maintenance. 1000mm gets a lot of splash from the rainfall heads, done enough to know that if you 'throw some shapes' in the shower then it's going to be worse again. FYI I've done lots where the client has asked for a 1000mm screen, with the caveat that they are made aware by me, up front, of what to expect.... plus I would then insist on tiles and tanking throughout for longevity.

Errrrr, don't use a solvent I never have in over a 1/4 century of doing high end bathrooms and wet rooms. Wet clean sponge to remove dry grout residue, then a cotton towel to scrub it dry. Leave to air dry thoroughly and then seal away. If you fear any other contamination, the CT1 MultiSolve is a good product to prepare areas for siliconing, but do you really need this extra process?

Then you have to tank the floors as well as the walls. 1000mm of glass doesn't cut it for an open enclosure IMO, 1200-1400mm minimum. Bit heavy on the wallet, but this is nice...Link

Just tell SWMBO that you noticed her sister seems to have lost weight recently......

That shower is knackered. Do not repair and reinstate it !!! Water will get into the top and when it does it'll have a nice 40amp supply with which to fry you......... Seriously? I'd send that pic to Triton UK sales, and on their Twitter feed too, and ask what they suggest you do with the failed unit, giving how dangerous this is, and what could have come from it. Do NOT think about salvaging this unit, please. It's Donald Ducked.

aka F&E ( feed and expansion ) tank.

Raised WC's are commonplace. You can get some nice ones which are fully back-to-wall, which hides the waste / plumbing connections and makes cleaning a doddle. Example. No need to get complicated with frames / wall hung shenanigans Super low profile tray can be bought as low as 25mm, and a nice slider with a low / no threshold will compliment that 1600mm gap perfectly. Example

Looks a great plan, what are you waiting for lol?

Assume the soil stack is external so no issue moving the WC?

Those unions will wind out and go back in just fine. Use a PTFE tape like this to sort those deep thread valleys as PTFE tape will struggle. Bit of boss white on the internal thread ( not too much ) and don't over-tighten first time around. Pinch up later if they weep, but with just F&E there's not much more than 1 bar there I'm guessing. +1 on using the filter to dose via. Don't use the F&E as it's the most elongated method of dosing there is. If you're worried about that, drain the towel rad when the systems down and fill that with the cleaner. Is that connected to the single pipe atm? I forget lol it's been a bit of a journey

Re sizing the LLH, the thread says “temporary UFH buffer” . Make your mind up lol. ? Use that “for now”............and then go to a TS later. FYI 25kW will be ample as all you have to imagine is a 25kW boiler going flat out ( which you have already ) heating via high temp rads. You’ll be on lower temps at that stage but kW requirement will be equal to or less as you upgrade the fabric in / under each room ( progressively lol ). Can’t you get on this GHG stuff?

Yup. If the other one turns up, I'll punt it out into one of my installs for you. ?

Let us know at 04:00

The worse the EPC the more dollars you get. Farkin bonkers. The MCS installer will have to make recommendations for upgrading anything utterly ? and that having been done will be part of the MCS / RHI criteria. Does the OP know of any such requirements so as to be able to factor in the costs to do so? @Steve_ ?

?. I'll drop in mid December for a brew and to see how far you've got lol. ?

Clean it, flush it, fit a mag filter and stop worrying. I've seen these with Castrol GTX, flowing black, and they still work annoyingly well. Do the CH MOT and see what the water quality is like after a couple of weeks of running.