Nickfromwales

You can. Above = bombproof 😎👍

BH T’s & C’s state that we can bully you at out leisure. No retreat, no surrender.

I have many “doomsday” plans for staying warm and well lit. 👀.

Jesus. At least he will be meeting Jesus soon. Disclaimer. Jesus does not actually exist.

Yup. 1st year apprentice would be sacked on the spot for that 💪.

You just find two bits of wood close together, put a long piece in, and bend it. “Use the force…..”

No metal on insulation / plastic for me, only fear is that they can chew through.

Lose the banding, and put another rubberised clamp just under the shoe of the rest bend. Do as @TonyT says.

How many times do you fill the whole sink with water? If it’s daily, then 15mm prob better tbph. Bit more of a delay, but for your specific circumstances it’s very likely you will open the tap at a reasonably high rate of knots to fill the sink anyways, thus negating this ‘problem’ regarding differing pipe sizes vs performance, and you’ll be able to keep the cold slug of dead leg as useful volume as you’ll be putting a lot of hot on top of it. That means little / no wasted water if you don’t have an HRC at the kitchen.

Cool. Can I run an extension lead from there back to my house? You’ll barely notice it

If the restriction is the device ( outlet ) then whatever pipe you fit, as long as it provides the minimum amount of water or more, will suffice. 15mm or 22mm will only deliver the potential available at the mains, after the stopcock / NRV etc, so a little academic imo. Fwiw, I have never piped a shower in 22mm pipework, ever, and have done more high-end / “luxury” bathroom installations than I can remember. Pretty much every one of those reported “fantastic” showers as an upgrade from either electric, gravity mixer, or pumped mixers. The only time I can say that this potential arrived at the shower head was when I installed customer supplied free standing steam / shower units ( cheap Chinese junk on a good day ) or again anything produced outside of the EU where there was little or no attenuation built in by design. These resulted in horrible, coarse, almost unpleasant jets of water flying out of the shower heads / sprays etc and the handsets become so violent that they tipped backwards in their holsters or came out of them altogether. And guess what? I had to install online flow restriction to calm than back down Also, that amount of cow makes the shower very noisy, in both the emitted water bouncing off walls and floors, but also when it’s travelling ( squeezing its way ) through the cheapy outlet. I’ve got shower runs in in a good few new builds where the runs are all 15mm, with good quality outlets ( Vado / Hans Grohe / Bristan etc ) and zero problems - zero complaints, and some on runs in excess of 25m, some longer. One of the big advantages of running Hep2o from manifold to outlet is the ability to run with long swept bends in one continuous run, thus making these runs the least resistive / convoluted runs possible, with the only acute bends / connections being at the outlet itself.

🤢🤮 and if not, wash it down with some frogs and snails……. Wtf 😳.

Yup. Flow can be stupidly low, but still give you the heat you require. A lot to do with the type of emitter though, eg thick vs thin ( slab vs screed ) will perform very differently.

Especially if they’re vegans lol.

Of course. Us professionals cannot possibly allow you, as a newbie, to get this right first time now can we?! So; OK. The rest bend will eventually fall off. Do as Bruce says above, and clamp that well. The shoe on the bend is supposed to be where the thud gets arrested, but that’ll be off before you know it

Yup. Not life or death, but every little helps.

You know too much, so we build in some insurance with your project

For any I insulated pipes yes, if using on insulated pipes you’ll need Talon clips plus Talon spacers or the pipe won’t be far enough from the mounting surface to allow for the insulation.

I don’t use clips, I use all round band, black powder coated. For the HRC I use 25mm wall 22mm bore Climaflex and then a 50mm waste clip works perfectly.

100%. I am now fully committed to using local PIR’s to activate the HRC pump. I also use the same PIR’s ( via a luxury sensor ) to trigger Pee lighting after sundown ( dusk to dawn ). Two birds one stone. Top of the kitchen plinth is where I install a stealthy sub-miniature PIR for HRC at the kitchen, with the sensor about the size of a £1 coin.

I only consider condensation on the cold ( far worse in winter ) an issue, so insulate the cold runs if I think there’s going to be any chance of a problem. For the cost, it’s something I’d go for tbh. On the hot runs, waste of time afaic, unless you’re running an HRC.

The biggest killer of pushfit pipe is linear scratches caused by pulling long lengths in through cut various cut / drilled holes and notches which are sharp / abrasive / or worst, have a nail or screw in that you've not seen. Pushfit fittings rely on the outside surface to create the water-tight seal, so be very careful to preserve this during 1st fix.

Dynamic pressure and flow will be affected by the size and distance of the pipe vs what is deliverable from the main that it is tapped off. It matters a lot. especially if the local mains is shite and you wish to preserve ever ounce of potential from it. No idea? Maybe the thread title should have been "do we need to upgrade to a new mains connection" Have you experience of this service performing well? Can you do a static and dynamic flow / pressure test before we get any further into this discussion? Defo, if it's up to par. Whilst machines are on site, it's a no-brainer to dig to the boundary and replace the incomer to MDPE imho. If there was a dodgy stopcock at the pavement, occasionally vandals would strike ( after we'd all left site ) and the ancient brass stopcock would be turned off so tight, by the vandals, that the head of the tap would get snapped off the shaft. The water authority would then have to come and replace that U/S stopcock to a nice new 25mm MDPE one, and connect the new 25/ 32mm client pipe to it, within a set number of hours too Bloody vandals couldn't have timed things better......

My mate had an Armstrong 399, 2 stroke single, left hand kick. At 17, I weighed in at around 7 stone soaking wet. I kicked the bike, it kicked me back......ouch. Thank goodness for my Axo's or it would have broken my leg I recon

Depending on the size of house / number of bathrooms, afaic a 32mm connection would be a no-brainer, as long as it wasn’t hugely more expensive? As urban areas get developed, the water pressure will head downwards, so consider future proofing too. Length of pipe run? Lots of variables to consider.