Nickfromwales

ffs 🤦‍♂️

I went to one student let with 3 girls with hair down their backs ( no @pocster, just no ). I swear the offending hair 'ball' I pulled out was actually a dead otter. The girls only complained when they showered and the water got to the shower door and flowed over the top and then into the kitchen downstairs. I asked if they thought they should have stopped using it sooner and they just looked at me as if I was from a different planet! The kitchen ceiling had been soaked so many times it was actually drooping and breaking. This was a brand new refurbished HMO and they ruined it. Moral of the storey, choose your shower trap well, and your tenants even better

10-15x if a retrofit into an existing poor / leaky dwelling, not so if a new job? Simple. Then you fit a 400L UVC. Incremental price increase is WAY less than buying and installing ( and finding a home for ) a second UVC, still uses the same footprint, and will be ample. I only put a 500L in for a family with 4 generations living in a massive, multi-bed / multi-bathroom house. Once blended down to shower temps that's a LOT of hot water. A "guest" switch gets fitted on any of my jobs where the house is 4 beds or above. One tap of a button and you get a 15/30/60/90/120 mins boost to either 1x or 2x 3kW immersions for duress DHW eg there's a wedding / other and the house is fully occupied with more occupants than rooms. Constant DHW with that lot going + ASHP in DHW mode.

I always seal / prime with a proper janitors mop and bucket with a 25/75 mix of primer to water and lash this all over, saturating the surface and leaving it to soak up whatever it wants to. Mop it dry and then do the same again the following day 50/50. Then I prime as I lay using the 50/50 mix to wet the surface 1m2 at a time as the tiles go down. Never had a tile job go bad, so that's the method that I "stick" to. Same method for laying SLC, but I leave the puddled mix down and pour the SLC onto that for a cheeky change in viscosity. Flows like a dream then.

Seriously, just leave it alone. You risk doing more harm than good tbh, especially if you are not doing this type of work every day. You've just said yourself this functions perfectly and has been doing so for a year, so if it ain't broke.....just cut the extenders at a slight angle to get the turret straight enough to get the lid flat and leave as is. Dig out under and clear room for concrete, and then pour the first lot to bind the base to the fist extender. Once cured you can push pull on the next and hold it in place during a second concrete pour. After that you should be fine, even if the lid is a Heath Robinson fit you'll be fine. Do not make the concrete too wet, this needs to be a semi-dry mix so slurry doesn't bleed into the loose joints.

Yup, this is a pile of shite. Rodding, even vigorously, shouldn't start any chuffing leak. Doing what you say you've done even less so!! I thought you'd DIY'd this tbh but if the builder / plumber installed it then it's very poor for this to happen. Contact them and ask for them to come fix it and make sure you are there the day that they do so you can see first hand what had caused the leak and gather evidence.

It’s not a soft option. Sounds like you have pushed the compression fitting enough to have moved the seal. Time to start cutting the ceiling I’m afraid. Don’t try cutting a small section out, it’s pointless. You’ll need to remove prob 600mm square to be able to physically get in and carry out a repair. Preserve the bit of board you take out, and reinstate it. Box clever and cut down the centre of the timbers and find the plasterboard screws with a small string magnet. Utilising the section you cut out will mean very little filling and sanding etc. Or, buy a hatch and cut to that dimension?

@Selfbuildsarah Also, contact Trevor at Cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum for a discount on the cylinder. Telford stainless has a lifetime warranty too, and plenty on here have used them.

@Selfbuildsarah How many people in the house, and how many bathrooms / baths? Remember that the second you lower the volume of premium heated water in the hot water cylinder the cylinder stat will kick in and fire up the heat pump at 100mph to reheat it. This will happen before you turn the hot tap off most likely, so as you are consuming hot water it will be getting reheated simultaneously. For an ASHP and anything more than 2 occupants you should go to a 300L cylinder IMO. You asked if the pic you referenced was a job where UFH was installed, answer is yes. See the 2 manifolds lower down in the pic R/H/S. How many metres of pipe, exactly, will be needed to run the ASHP to the cylinder as you wish it to be done? 15-20m is no real world issue, but will likely need a second pump on the return to compliment the one in the ASHP on the flow.

No worries. The pic shows a standard incoming gas supply plus EGC (Emergency Gas Control aka shut-off valve) so all good there. I would seriously consider upgrading all the gas supply pipework under the boards now, in anticipation of changing to a modern boiler downstream. That would very likely require 28mm or 22mm pipework to supply it, and that can do done now relatively economically. If you do change boilers then it will need doing anyways so you either pay less now for hidden larger pipes, or pay more later and have to either wall mount it externally or pull the floors up retrospectively. What boiler do you currently have? If fed via 15mm pipework I assume an older 'heat only' boiler + cylinder?

Are you typing this from the pub again? I thought we agreed nothing until after 11:00!! One tank is ample, you just size it accordingly, ffs. 🙄

Plus I have lost count of how many of these are fitted / have been fitted as per in the above pic and they work just fine. May be a slight worry if immediately connected after a 1 or 2 storey vertical fall, eg where the brown dolphins are at Mach 4, but as there is a long straight run here at GF level things should only be travelling at a standard pace (so they will change direction without getting airborne first). "Stand down brown alert!". 💩

Assuming that was meant to say storm drains(?) then maybe an opportunity to introduce that through the centre inlet and for it to be periodically washed through by rainwater. If it's a combined sewer that is?

It is piped 'incorrectly' but will function perfectly well as is. The big question will be if your building control officer agrees this or not. @lifeviaai, what's the deal with building control?

Don't start cutting this out, there is no need. Straighten as much as possible as per above advice, and cut the turrets to correct the angle for the cover. This is a can of worms that doesn't need opening IMHO.

Time to get on Amazon and get a cheap borescope, and take a peek. Is there a downlight / other downstairs, where the shower is?

Coolio. Get the order of events clear, post your 'plan of attack' here, and "we" can offer support and critique before you push the button. For a bit of respite, there are many folk far worse off, and this is recoverable. Time goes, that's a given, but the effort here and now will produce dividends for sure. 👊

Indeed. Be pragmatic, and be firm. Keep the threat of legal action back as a last resort. Hopefully you won't need to show that card, let alone go the route of legal recourse. If you do then I think you'd be successful in this instance, but don't assume you will be. Consider costs before lighting any fires. CAB will be a great sounding board, as will BH.

Holy shit.

Would the 203 have given you the headroom that you assumed you were going to get?

These things are bombproof unless not fitted A1. When SWMBO said "we're taking on water" was the water in the shower area confined as it normally is? Inside the cubicle / other?

OK. Did you unscrew the top threaded part out of the waste fitting that resides under the tray? You should have been unscrewing.......................nothing.

Nope, all good. Go back to counting kiLler-wHale-hOurs please (LHO for future reference)

Hi. In 30+ years of heating and hot water I have never seen a supply pipe in 15mm copper. I suggest you investigate this properly by lifting floorboards and identifying what gas pipework is in use, and what is redundant. The redundant stuff needs to be cut out and capped off by a GSR'd installer. Can you upload a pic of the meter, showing the connections and where they go into the floor / wall / other, please?

Order has now been restored. As you were, people.