Nickfromwales

@Big Jimbo to tag a member ( as I've done and you see it in a blue bubble ) just type an @ sign and then ( no spaces ) the first couple of letters of their username. Select from the drop down box as it appears. The member will get a notification that you have "mentioned them" in a post too. .

You........did.........WHAT!? 😱

My clients found a no win no fee agent who got their £11k quote down to £6k. His fee was 10 or 20% ( cant recall ) of the saved sum.

Everything before the meter is DNO responsibility, so you won't ask anything of the fitters other than "would you like a cup of tea?" Do not start off by saying "please fault my sub-standard home!". Just leave them to it.

The exact reason why I have a digger arriving anytime now, so I can 'sink' the room a bit / have less visual impact for the neighbours etc. I'm going to stay 1m away from the boundary and build at or just under the 30m2 rule, as 15m2 just isn't going to give me the space I need. I'll make the roof overhang though, and I'll have a decent maintenance path around the sides and rear, with cover, so it'll be less of a loss tbh. I need to be able to get around for maintenance anyhoo, but at least I'll be drip-dry during the rain.

Yes to that. Every single PV install my chap has done ( for my private clients and a bunch of members on here ) have all met or exceeded the stated expectations, so there is "definitely something in the MCS water" . You can, but you'll spend 20 years paying them off. There's a company that takes full panels and cuts them down / reinstates the circuitry / re-frames them to suit. The price is £OUCH

What?!? There was a thread on here with more than 1 page? Give over

SBR retains a better 'tack' than PVA, and you're only supposed to skim over 'tacky' primer, and defo not dry / cured PVA.

I've never heard this being an issue, but @nod is the master of plaster so wait until he chips in My spreads just add a little more water to the first set and crack on tbh.

In a nutshell, exactly what I was thinking, just it's the kind of thing that will require skill, engineering and determination. Otherwise it's pointless adding crap on crap at cost. Oh, and a lifetime supply of baby-wipes to get the CT1 off everything, including yourself!!

Need multiple inputs for2 strings of panels, batteries, generator and mains. Working out configurations in the background with some solar buddies, in my ‘spare’ time.

I’ve not purchased yet. I’m just about to do a slab for the garden studio / office where most of my panels will reside. The one I’m fancying is; https://www.sunsynk.org/8kw-hybrid-inverter

I always use Hepworth. These isolators ( the manifold ones ) are great, and never need servicing. You cannot use them to attenuate / restrict flow by opening them partially. It’s either on or off though, otherwise they’re noisy. When open 100% they’re virtually silent.

Nope. Sorry. The opening needs to be reduced eg so the bath is touching against the untiled wall, sitting on battens which are smothered in CT1, and then the bath gets set into that, filled with water, then whilst everything is still wet you apply more CT1 down into the remainder of the gap and finish it flush with the topside of the bath. Leave for 24hrs, empty the bath, tile, wait 24hrs, fill the bath and grout. Leave 24hrs. Empty bath and silicone seal for cosmetics. CT1 does the fundamental sealing / leak proofing. Can you strip the tiles off the part side wall and leave the tap end and long side alone? Is the room tiled throughout? Or just around bath?

Kudos to @Rob99

Twice the fecking price, that’s why lol!! I’ll be north of 12.5kWp but as it’s fragmented I can push the 8.8kW inverter to 140% without issue. Doubt very much I’ll ever see as much as 10kW at the inverter at any one given time.

I have to, as there will be 4 separate 'arrays', with a fragmented mix of SE / SW / SSE and E to give me as long a solar day as possible. I'll look at that blog, thanks, appreciated.

I will simply do this based on the inverter being dialled down to the requisite for fast-track, and then ( as it's a hybrid ) I can bolt on as many panels as I like, and same with batteries. Soon find out what WPD have to say!!

It’s this gap which needs to be eradicated, so if you’re thinking of doing this the easy way then it ain’t going to be any better than what you currently have. You need to bite the bullet, see if you can find tiles, and do this properly or you’ll be doing all this work for absolutely no result whatsoever. And you’ll be doing it again every year. The opening needs to be reduced, so you’re into some building work. Do it once, do it properly, get on with your life.

If it's tiled 3 sides around, how can you get it out?

I've been looking into this ahead of my install, and the MCS for the panels ( MCS is about the generator btw not the inverter etc ) basically just means I have to use a recognised rail and a recognised clamp and that's about it. Equipment needs to be "on the list" also, but that's a given. Just waiting for a man with a micro-digger and then the office / studio begins! Then 21 lovely new solar collectors atop, and with my electricity bills I cannot wait to see that meter grind to a halt. 11 more going on the gazebo ( after I rebuild it after having to rip it down to get the bloody digger in / facilitate the office build ). Gotta break a few eggs..... Defo sold on the SunSync hybrid 8.8 Inverter, so I'll be off to the shops soon as. Also going to Tigo everything, but prob only one optimiser per 2x panels vs 1x per panel. The arrays can then be loaded according to the capacity of the inputs rather than dual input from mono-array(s), and I'm going E/W split on office roof and new gazebo will be rebuilt S-ish. Will be satisfying to see the individual ( or pairs of ) panels on the app, albeit almost valueless, but satisfying.

Go and get a cost / design done from the likes of Wunda. If you buy from them then they'll do a design / calcs etc and talk you through controls options and provide the kit. Once you have the kit there will be very little for an "engineer" to do, so as above just get a good plumber and a good electrician to complete. Wunda will show you a pipe layout to follow, if you're DIY'ing the loops in the floor. If you want to run this on its own eg not at the same time as the radiators / the 2 wont always be on simultaneously, then you'll very likely need to install a small buffer tank ( say 25-50L ) to stop the boiler short-cycling. What boiler do you have?

Any that don't employ / have an M&E consultant or provide a detailed breakdown with reasons / rationale etc. Also a lot of architects say they can sort this for you, but then palm it off and there's zero synergy / harmonisation of the installed equipment. The Stiebel is German and I reckon it's the Mercedes to your BMW, but I'd really like to pull these apart to properly examine / compare them. I avoided both Samsung and Mitsubushi at the outset as none of their tech dept.'s wanted to speak to me to help design for such low-energy dwellings or discuss cooling. Samsung guy actually put the phone down on me when I said that cooling did work with their units and that I knew of folk who had got them to do so, ffs. I rang Panasonic and the young, keen guys in tech-support were brilliant by comparison, immensely helpful. The product is robust, and I'm very happy with these units. They look a little utilitarian, that's all, but these aren't really on show as the pride and joy so I am struggling to see why anyone needs to pay more. Same warranty is offered by most ( 7 years iirc ) so they are what I'm fitting these days until someone demonstrates something much better to me, for not much more money.

FCU's are dumb and AHUs are clever, in a nutshell.

Most don't so do not panic. You just get the groundworkers to dig slowly carefully. Finding "buried treasure" is something you'll factor in and accept as a known eventuality, and you'll deal with a break if and when it happens ( out of your contingent fund ).