Nickfromwales

Just a matter of how well the membrane is bonded down under it though, I suppose. These plates go on retrospectively, after the membrane has been laid.

They will grip like shit to a blanket tbh. Nothing stopping the plates being bonded also, FWIW.

It would be a question for the manufacturer of the SIP panel, and for them to say if multiples of fixing locations would make this permissible tbh.

Any space for a ground-mounted array or create a structure to take even 4kWp? 2kWp is better than nowt!

Don't forget to plan how to get cables through the roof, as that needs to be stitched into the fabric of the build before the roof membrane goes in / on. Cable snorkels are available which can be made airtight and are water-weather proof.

Roof goes down and gets proven as rain / weather tight. Then you install the plates and weld the skirts down atop the original covering.

Another option.

No idea off the top of my head; we give turnkey prices via my solar partner (and his designers). They are a brilliant solution, and for situations where you cannot punch the fixings into structure, you just add more plates to create more fixings / point of purchase eg into 18mm OSB etc. You wouldn't be allowed to fix these to 9mm OSB obvs. You should be able to get costs and a design from the company I linked to, or 'we' can price it? PM me if any use, but not if you want it doing in 2023, sorry!! The screws are specified by MCS, and are BFO stainless steel construction screws with large pan / flat heads. LINK - company chosen due to dragon logo lol. Standing seam clamps are OK, but somewhere where bean-counting cannot be the driver! One instance where staying away from the perimeter is a bloody good idea.

I think it was Jeremy who mentioned just running the UFH pump to circulate the water in the floor(s) without the HP engaged. Great idea, and one I've adopted for my projects. I am using a dusk - dawn photocell to override the manifold pump(s) so they only come on when the sun is 'up', plus it runs for free then if PV is included.

You get extra material from the roofing company, and send that off. They then manufacture the plates with the skirt made from what you supplied, so you have have no mix / match / colour & type indifference. We supply a design to the clients so the builder / client / roofer can install in-house. The rails go atop and you're done and MCS compliant without the extra weight. Without the ballast being down first and the height of that, you can then drop the array low so it's 'less ugly' to look at .

Yup.

Have you already installed the roof membrane? 'We' favour Nicholson plates LINK and rails vs ballast. That install may be too exposed to use Van Der Valk rails + ballast LINK, unless its with pre-stressed concrete lintels and you've the kg/m2 allowances in place for the huge extra weight? It looks like you have a parapet all round? The perimeter rule is from MCS iirc, and mostly for in-roof systems and not so much so for on-roof. With on-roof you have a roof which is 100% weatherproof, and then you overlay the array atop, and this will allow for "infinite" arrays which can go ridge to gutter and gable to gable flush fitting. The caveat is that the fixings and rails ned to be specified to cope, but many systems have gone in with an infinite install and have MCS so yes, it can be done. The 200-300mm requisite is simply to allow for a slate / tile / and a half to be fitted to the edges and be finished accordingly, eg so the in-roof trays can be part of a robust weatherproof install. FYI, a few installers put the bottom of the panels too close to the gutter and the rain overshoots the gutter. One issue to watch / mitigate against.

What most with an ASHP + PV do anyways. When you add into that equation the stop-start of the ASHP, plus possible freezing, plus the moving parts, and then work out the reduction in longevity of all the kit outward of the cylinder, the maths really begin to shift further away from heating north of 50-55oC via the HP. Immersion is 100% efficient, zero moving parts, and is cheaper than shoplifting to replace.

Yes, boss. Just the words "me" and "sensible" don't seem to work in the editor here. Keeps auto-deleting.

Stop chopsing, and PLEASE go and put some clothes on.

Flow temp will be affected either way, as the cooler return will reduce the output of the ASHP, so that's just moving the 'problem' from one place to another imo. Truth is it's not actually a 'problem', and if it's within the heated envelope all latent losses go towards the target temp anyhoo. 6 and two 3's.

It had upstands, as I never fit anything less with students (aka dimwits) in the mix. The water was up over the frame of the cubicle and overflowing onto the bathroom floor all the time they were using it, so nearly 3" of water in the tray, and they carried on getting in/out, one after the other, stepping into the soup the last user had left behind 🤢🤮

ffs 🤦‍♂️

I went to one student let with 3 girls with hair down their backs ( no @pocster, just no ). I swear the offending hair 'ball' I pulled out was actually a dead otter. The girls only complained when they showered and the water got to the shower door and flowed over the top and then into the kitchen downstairs. I asked if they thought they should have stopped using it sooner and they just looked at me as if I was from a different planet! The kitchen ceiling had been soaked so many times it was actually drooping and breaking. This was a brand new refurbished HMO and they ruined it. Moral of the storey, choose your shower trap well, and your tenants even better

10-15x if a retrofit into an existing poor / leaky dwelling, not so if a new job? Simple. Then you fit a 400L UVC. Incremental price increase is WAY less than buying and installing ( and finding a home for ) a second UVC, still uses the same footprint, and will be ample. I only put a 500L in for a family with 4 generations living in a massive, multi-bed / multi-bathroom house. Once blended down to shower temps that's a LOT of hot water. A "guest" switch gets fitted on any of my jobs where the house is 4 beds or above. One tap of a button and you get a 15/30/60/90/120 mins boost to either 1x or 2x 3kW immersions for duress DHW eg there's a wedding / other and the house is fully occupied with more occupants than rooms. Constant DHW with that lot going + ASHP in DHW mode.

I always seal / prime with a proper janitors mop and bucket with a 25/75 mix of primer to water and lash this all over, saturating the surface and leaving it to soak up whatever it wants to. Mop it dry and then do the same again the following day 50/50. Then I prime as I lay using the 50/50 mix to wet the surface 1m2 at a time as the tiles go down. Never had a tile job go bad, so that's the method that I "stick" to. Same method for laying SLC, but I leave the puddled mix down and pour the SLC onto that for a cheeky change in viscosity. Flows like a dream then.

Seriously, just leave it alone. You risk doing more harm than good tbh, especially if you are not doing this type of work every day. You've just said yourself this functions perfectly and has been doing so for a year, so if it ain't broke.....just cut the extenders at a slight angle to get the turret straight enough to get the lid flat and leave as is. Dig out under and clear room for concrete, and then pour the first lot to bind the base to the fist extender. Once cured you can push pull on the next and hold it in place during a second concrete pour. After that you should be fine, even if the lid is a Heath Robinson fit you'll be fine. Do not make the concrete too wet, this needs to be a semi-dry mix so slurry doesn't bleed into the loose joints.

Yup, this is a pile of shite. Rodding, even vigorously, shouldn't start any chuffing leak. Doing what you say you've done even less so!! I thought you'd DIY'd this tbh but if the builder / plumber installed it then it's very poor for this to happen. Contact them and ask for them to come fix it and make sure you are there the day that they do so you can see first hand what had caused the leak and gather evidence.

It’s not a soft option. Sounds like you have pushed the compression fitting enough to have moved the seal. Time to start cutting the ceiling I’m afraid. Don’t try cutting a small section out, it’s pointless. You’ll need to remove prob 600mm square to be able to physically get in and carry out a repair. Preserve the bit of board you take out, and reinstate it. Box clever and cut down the centre of the timbers and find the plasterboard screws with a small string magnet. Utilising the section you cut out will mean very little filling and sanding etc. Or, buy a hatch and cut to that dimension?

@Selfbuildsarah Also, contact Trevor at Cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum for a discount on the cylinder. Telford stainless has a lifetime warranty too, and plenty on here have used them.