Nickfromwales

Yes, lol, I'll get my coat and leave now

Not my Uncle Bert and second cousin Harold? How could you???

+1 Is the question on everyone's lips. Would be good to scrutinise this in a working test environment before I felt brave enough to spend a clients money on it.

Ok. My reference to the pipe insulation was not about the exposed pipework, but only regarding what you will seal and foam to the finished wall depth. You want this airtight, so the ends of any sunken pipe insulation cannot be on show when the foam / sealing-up work is done. You'd complete this task, and THEN insulate the exposed pipework in the garage, afterwards. When you have finished this particular task, you should be then looking at foam and bare pipes only. Insulating the exposed pipes in a space outside the house "thermal envelope", afterwards, is obviously necessary and wise. As a suitable punishment for not having done this yet, you must now buy each Buildhub member a beer. Sadly, as you've left this for some time, we're now at north of 20k members. 💶Ouch 🍻

Yup, that kind of minute detail will get you in the ground a lot sooner lol.

Ah, OK. Ditch the pipe insulation and "squirt away!". Doesn't look like you'd get much on so pointless.

There are companies out there who can cosmetically alter the bricks to match existing. Often used on extension or alterations such as these

Hi. Is the system working atm, and can you upload pics of the 2nd manifold please? First issue is they have plumbed the manifold arrangements upside down, as the pump should not be facing down and the blending valve should be below it. Looks like they just tossed away the instruction book and just bolted it together as they saw 'fit'.... The flow gauges go on the flow rail, which they have at the bottom, which is wrong, but the issue is to rectify this it all needs swapping around the right way and then the flow and return pipework reconfigured accordingly. About a day per setup should suffice. I'd recommend doing this when the weather is nice, and when the manifold rails are off and the loops open ended, you can then flush these out with cold mains water for free. The black crud (ferrous oxide aka 'rust') will not clean off very well, but don't be too panicked as the water is probably quite clean and the black coating on the flow gauges makes it look like the water is like engine oil; I'd bet it isn't So, is this actually working atm, eg non emergency 'shituation'?

20mm internal overhang in a thermally broken frame is fine imho.

My get out of jail card there, these days, is to line the door and window reveals with Marmox boards instead of plasterboard. Insulated plasterboard is quite a pig to work with when you have to cut around the metal fixings plates, especially when it's long thin lengths! Marmox is impervious to water / moisture ingress, insulates, and the grey coating will take a coat of plaster directly so no need to plasterboard over it. Downside is it will take less of a 'hit' from a point impact, vs plasterboard + skim, but if you have a good spread who has put 2 sets on then you should be fine with Marmox + skim + paint. You can easily router out the rear of the Marmox, nowhere near as messy as plasterboard, and it can be bonded on vs screws very successfully.

Slide some thin wall pipe insulation over the pipes first, then foam the gaps afterwards. Finish the insulation maybe 10-20mm inside the wall so the foam can be 'around' the end of the pipe vs around the pipe insulation as air will travel in the gap between the pipe and the insulation Other than that, carry on 👍 You may find it easier to do if you attach a 400mm piece of 10/12mm water pipe to the end of the foam gun, with lots of electrical tape wound VERY tight, to extend the gun away from the group of pipes That'll allow you to inject the foam quite deep into the cavity. I'd spray some water from a hand pump spray bottle into the voids to assist the foam to expand much better and be void of hollows etc.

Wouldn't matter if a membrane is detailed properly below it?

No probs there then as the control group doesn't have a NRV. Curiouser and curiouser

My bad, just zoomed in on a better screen. Downstream 🫡.

It looks like it’s teed into the rising main?

Upstream, not downstream

Ah! It’s a dark pic, but I think the issue is that the EV has mistakenly been teed off before the PRedV / control group. @Mattg4321, can you take a better pic or confirm if that’s the case? If so, then we’ve got the answer methinks. The EV should be tapped in by removing the black plastic plug on the rear of the control group, ideally.

Yea, the roof was H shaped and the hip out to the left had PV on the other side (west facing), the panels you see are south facing, and then the same out of shot (to the right of the image) for east. Just small enough to put on a single string so inverters allowed us to have the 3 way split array. 👍

Hi fella. It’s been discussed here a few times and there’s just zero advantage tbh, as the escaping heat energy (after the MVHR has scavenged heat to redirect into the house) is minimal at best. Also, you can’t have the MVHR terminal too close to the ASHP intake or you’ll start; a) sucking air out of the house, and b) hearing the ASHP inside the house, as that sound will travel.

@Big Jimbo Welcome (back), wishing you well, from Wales 😊

Jesus, lol. Did you argue with someone just before typing that? 😵‍💫😅. I was going to quote a few bits of it, but I’m still trying to correlate what you’ve said vs relevance to this thread….. Its not complicated, its a bog-standard UVC conversion with one teething issue. 🤷‍♂️. Servicing UVC’s is basic G3 stuff. So, do you need a cuddle or what?

I'd have put the BBQ and the patio set on the bastard thing!!

6 bar on all domestic, some even 5. Defo needs pumping back up to 2.5bar pre-charge to test for 24 hrs.

I have been quoted to have “no varnish” lol, so those are just my nuts & bolts opinions, but these come from having done a large number of successful M&E projects for self builders, and having kicked a good few ‘associated professionals’ arses into shape along the way. Another day in the office 🫡😁

Cool. That’s great news. Those come delivered with a short piece of 25mm MDPE either side, then the water authorities / groundwork guys subbing to them just fit a universal adapter to fit onto whatever is disappearing into your drive / garden, so you should just be able to join onto that 25mm stub by removing their adaptor and fitting a standard couple 👍👌.