Nickfromwales

Does it lift, or turn, normally? Usually these lift and are held up by water pressure, then they drop back to bath position by themselves. The part you pull should unscrew if you turn it with a spanner (lefty loosey) and then you can WD40 it, or search for a matching replacement.

You’d just inject a silicone or mastic deep into the holes afterwards.

75mm is scraping the barrel for a constructional, reinforced slab. Takes us back to my above comment, on what arguably is, the worst possible place to be bean-counting….. Developer built sites are always cash cow, sausage factories. They don’t bother with quality control and building control are useless wazzocks; probably 2 out of 10 of these new builds actually get walked into, and the other 8 will just be a paper trail. Currently dealing with a BCO that had to admit to the client that he’d been on site, met the builder, checked all the major structural steels / pads / foundations, and signed them all of as kosher. Turns out that he simply glanced across the site, saw there were a load of steel in situ, assumed the builder knew how to follow printed, written installation instructions, yet did no such thing. We called the SE to site and he noted the vertical steels were the wrong sizes, in the wrong place, rotated 90° out of the required orientation, and were simply poking into the virgin ground with zero foundation / pads underneath them; the builder had consciously tried to deceive, by simply pouring a “pineapple ring” of concrete onto the ground around the base, squared off with some off cuts of OSB, to look like a full pad had been poured as per. All professionals on site, myself included, agreed that this was the worst job / builder we’d seen in over 30 years. BCO signed it all off as “correct”.

You’d only be infilling the depressions, so don’t make the mistake a lot of floor layers do, and go and add to the high points! All around the periphery, stairs, front / sliding / rear doors will get zero leveller; you may need to just knock these back with a bit of grinding, which can massively reduced the amount of infilling that’s needed. Apologies on costs I stated above, you need to add the new flooring / labour / disposal costs on top of that.

If the site is still ongoing, you can take a sneaky look of an evening.

It’s reinforced concrete….where’s it going to go?

👍👍👍

@sisturix I don’t think the slab is curling, as it’s mesh reinforced so would be quite a trick. This is literally a groundworker on his mother’s side. If you want to draw a line, just self-level this and accept the £2k cost to correct it. Or, if you want to go to war, pursue it as above. A possible solution is to approach the builder / developer and ask them to pony up £1k towards the repairs as a one-off payment and that you will accept that as full and final resolution aka “case closed”. He should agree, I would!

The good people at rugsRus will help you through the temp flooring annoyance Note: I just made that name up, please don’t post any cheques to them, you will not receive any rugs in the mail. Lol.

This needs a call to the warranty people. Mention to the developer that you are about to begin the claims process to see if that fires a rocket up his arse, if not, continue independently via the warranty advisor; taking their initial response as questionable would be wise, and post it up here for comment (anonymise it completely with zero specifics on it please). It just sounds like an incompetent groundworker, on a desperately bean-counted (typical) developer site; get in, get out, max profit, minimum effort. If you have radiators then why do you want to add a full wet UFH system? This will be a HUGE pita, and some local comfort ‘underfoot’ heating can be achieved with an electric solution (for more sporadic use).

I use a 3mm notched tile adhesive trowel if it’s a big area, but you can make a ‘comb’ with an 8” bit of the 6mm ply and just cut a load of notches our with a saw. That’s the spirit, go get after it!

Yup. You’d need to punch them almost completely through the ply to cause any issues, so plenty of time to get off the trigger. Don’t panic if one starts to head in and you didn’t halt at the perfect moment, as that kind of hesitance could mean you're not actually pulling the ply 100% tight to the deck, which is far worse. Just get the screw to pull in so it’s a little countersunk and job done.

Yup. Stick a bag over the shower trap to keep it clean.

Jesus is my stage name, please use it sparingly........my child. lol. Stop whinging and go buy loads of screws, they're cheaper than shoplifting. https://www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-pz-double-countersunk-thread-cutting-multipurpose-screws-4mm-x-25mm-200-pack/17430?tc=ET2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19815174909&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxO0lenZYLD6Z3KcA6zQZjuy&gclid=CjwKCAjwyOzSBhBTEiwAmxvJ-rrQHxbaDIuLj8bFNZ-ErefwWyeaAMa9xO000NkTVbbporAuhnbGrRoCf7QQAvD_BwE Amen.

Brush it with a stiff brush, and saturate it with 50/50 SBR/water, at least twice, then brush it with neat an hour before you start boarding. SBR stays quite tacky, but PVA just skins over, so with PVA you need to roller it on neat and lay when it’s tacky; eg a PITA.

Indeed. Anything regularised will be between 38mm and 44mm, with only “sawn” timber being 50mm (2”).

Unless that’s at least 12+ months or more, as usually I’m on these types of projects as early as the client will entertain. 11 months before concrete was poured on one of my current projects and still discovering opportunities / ‘tweaking’ on the fly! Keep asking lots of questions, and use this time well to design M&E / interior and fabric choices etc, as when the build kicks off you’ll have far less capacity / brain-space than you think you will, .

A very good point. Many heads always better than one Minimum 250mm, MBC is 300mm, but their 140mm mineral wool + PIR IWI option is better on paper; (imho poorer overall in real life though, as it’s quite acoustically transparent).

@sansserif can simply ask them to remove it from their quote, if it is costed remotely and is cheaper elsewhere or better done by a trusted 3rd party; where the preference is to remove ambiguity over the quality / robustness of the work. Other examples are UFH, design and install / manifold / pressure test, groundworks for pipes / ducts etc, and so on; things that some folk prefer to focus on specifically / more intensively, and often that steps beyond the comfort zone of a turnkey contractor or supplier. This is one of my favourite things about MBC and Pro ICF, the ability for me to ‘stick my oar in’ and finesse things on the clients behalf way in advance of the construction phase.

Yikes! Last basement job I was supporting with the design etc needed 90 of them….. but thankfully not as deep as yours. I’d still have a basement and hope you’re undeterred! It’s only money

Mini piles?

Gordon Lewis is tha’ man. If anyone wants his number, ping me a PM.

4 IC’s too many here, if you can run these pipes under the slab however you want? For my current client I simplified 5 IC’s down to…….. 1. Passed BC with flying colours, and had the BCO out today to do a stage inspection, all flying colours. Architects go nuts on these, drainage ‘engineers’ not far behind, but sense / sensibility should prevail. Zero sense appears to have been applied to the above, sorry.

👌👍. As the screws will be PZ2 and these bits are PH2, you’ll need to keep a lot of weight on the impact when you’re sending these home. Should work fine, just test fire a few off to get settled in, and bingo-bango. 👌

Lol. Squeeze the trigger GENTLY!