Temp

I think you should also avoid dividing walls between the bays of the garage or it might be hard to open doors of some cars wide enough to get out.

Keep an eye on the roof pitch. I think it will be somewhere between 15 and 18 degrees depending on the eaves and ridge detail. I think 15 degrees is the minimum for man made/interlocking slates is 15 degrees.

From the HMRC forum.. https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/ebb59f20-6793-ed11-97b0-00155d9c7b3d

Many developers are international companies. They can choose where to invest. In the UK where there is are high taxes or elsewhere where there aren't? I also suspect the supply of wind turbines is limited so that may mean they want to put them where they will be most profitable.

3.3.4 in VAT 708 should cover a diversion provided you already have planning permission.... 3.3.4 Work closely connected to the construction of the building Subject to paragraph 3.3.6, your work is closely connected to the construction of the building when it either: (a) allows the construction of the building to take place.... It does list some examples but also states not everything is listed and it will be considered on its merits. We argued with Anglian Water and eventually got our water main diversion zero rated.

He should have zero rated everything to you. In the case of a mixed invoice (eg supply and fit) everything must be billed at the lowest rate which in this case is the zero rate for labour. _if_ he had split it into two parts it might be possible for you to reclaim the vat on the materials part alone but I don't think HMRC make that policy. The problem is many trades know it should be zero rated to you do they pocket the VAT and don't pass it on to HMRC. If you then claim it back from HMRC the HMRC are down.

Vat708 is here. It can be very confusing in places so if it's not clear come back and ask.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708

Yeah that would probably work if the contractors won't oblige. Although would HMRC check if the contractor has actually passed the VAT to HMRC ?

I presume this is only "temporary" until they can put it underground but its a pretty impressive pipe.

1) Yes that invoice should have been zero rated to you. 2) Ditto. 3) You can reclaim the VAT on the materials you purchased. The contractors invoice should have been zero rated to you. You can try writing to the contractors stating that HMRC have said they need to refund the VAT charged because this was "work carried out on a new dwelling" or in the case of the diversion was "Work closely connected to the construction of a new dwelling" (para 3.3.4 in VAT 708). It might help if you also enclose a "certificate" which is essentially a letter to them certifying that that the work referred to in the invoice/quote was carried out in the course of constructing a qualifying new dwelling and should be zero rated in accordance with VAT 708. Include things like your contact details, the site address even if it's just "plot next to.." and the planning permission reference number. Good luck.

Officially you can't reclaim VAT paid to a trade in error from HMRC. You are meant to go back to the trade. .. https://www.self-build.co.uk/our-guide-claiming-back-vat-self-build/

Jolly good. Do try and pay some of the first payment on a credit card if not already done.

Yes, sorry you can't reclaim VAT on tool hire. However if you hire a groundwork man to dig trenches and he hires a machine his whole invoice to you should be zero rated. Not sure about scaffolding... I know you can't reclaim VAT if you buy or hire but what about hire and errect?

I've not see that document before. It does indeed say 50mm on page 21. It also suggests a second membrane is needed when fitting some types of insulation, presumably wool like insulation rather than rigid. Never seen that done.

There is servicing and servicing. The big companies that take a monthly fee almost never flush a system or check/change the corrosion inhibitor, they just service the boiler. They frequently claim they aren't allowed to go in the loft to tip inhibitor into the header tank on a ventilated rad system but it can be added via a rad bleed valve. Over time corrosion create sludge and then one autumn you turn it on for the first time in ages and you find some rads don't heat up. They rock up and either get the sludge moving or tell you you need a power flush cost £300 - £900. Some CH pumps even stir the system occasionally to try and prevent the sludge settling out in the summer but that's only going to delay problems. This is less of an issue with UFH as there are fewer metal parts to corrode but I still like to keep my system inhibitor at the right level. The thought of a blocked UFH pipe gives me the shivers. You can buy a corrosion inhibitor test kit for around £10 to see if there is any left in the system. If you need to add some its worth estimating the volume of water in the system when you drain it so you get the concentration right. Our system needs several bottles if F1. They say putting in too much isn't a problem though apart from the cost.

A vapour barrier below the insulation will also help reduce risk of interstitial condensation.

If its a breathable membrane you may not need top vents. See what the BCO says. They are recommended if you have tight fitting slates (rather than say hand made clay tiles) but this is to ventilate above the membrane rather than below it. The void under the membrane can also be reduced to 25mm just to allow the membrane to drape correctly.

One of your neighbours got an illegal booster perhaps?

Phone issues can be strange. We had three or four phones on Asda before they switched networks. After the switch one couldn't get a good signal. I guess that phone just didn't work as well on the new frequency.

If you have the height (propably not?) then put insulation at ceiling height rather than between rafters?

Looks like minor changes but without a circuit it's hard to tell. What's the temperature rating marked on the biggest capacitor new vs old? Are the new blue round things transient suppressors or ?

I think you should drain the heating system not just release the pressure. Unless there is a way to isolate the expansion vessel from the rads. If it needs draining put corrosion inhibitor back in afterwards (eg Fernox f1 or similar). What does @Prodave think? May need ptfe tape for the connection to the expansion vessel.

What's the thread between the hoop and the rod? For example Google "M6 stainless Steel standoff" finds hexagonal standoff. You can find them in other materials but not all are rated for outdoor use. Most are intended for mounting things like PCB. I would also ask the supplier of the guttering. I'm sure they must have something.

Depends what the surrounding houses are like. In an area where they are all in neat rows it will be a lot more Important. If you can find other houses in different orientations in the same road you can include photos or plans with your application in the Design and Access Statement. Sometimes it helps to provide a street view - an artists sketch drawing showing your house and those either side of it. Our Architect was good with pen and ink drawing and made ours look like it fitted in well. In reality trees, hedges and sloping ground mean you can't actually stand in one place and see that view. We spent a year trying to get approval for a house further back on our plot. They kept us moving bits around like that game you get in Christmas's crackers with squares you slide about. They were adamant it had to be built near the front which is narrow. In the end we discovered a letter they had sent the previous owner saying "a house further back on the plot might be better". We were furious at the waste of time and money.

@PXR5If not too late make sure there is a clause allowing sale to anyone if you can't find a local buyer after some period of time on the market. Your lender may also want to see the wording as occupancy restrictions affect the value.