Temp

https://legalbeagles.info/forums/forum/legal-forums/housing-property-and-neighbours/1402955-fencing-adjacent-to-a-highway-rules It continues with a case where a fence more than 2m away from the Highway was considered adjacent to it.

When energy prices spiked Ofgem raised the cap but not as high as they should. They kept it artificially low to protect people. It was explained at the time that this would mean it was kept higher for longer when energy prices fall.

Presumably the rated power of a coil in a tank only applies at a particular flow rate and temperature delta? Eg 15kW when the flow temperature is 10C hotter than the water in the tank? Something like that anyway. So I would expect the coil would not perform as well at a lower delta temperature. Can well believe tanks for use with heat pumps need bigger coils to achieve the same power throughput.

Dealing with climate change is going to cost a lot of money. Delaying starting is only going to increase the rate of spend we eventually need.

If the pipe goes up in the wall you normally need a 90 degree bend in the wall to bring it out under the basin. If you run it exposed up the wall you might get away with a large radius bend hidden in the floor. But the exposed pipe is ugly. If you use copper then you need a joint hidden in the floor. So either way you need a hidden joint. Buy the plinth base for the basin to hide the pipe?

+1 on seeking advice because I think there are special/different tax rules and relief on agricultural land in family ownership. I don't think you will pay second home stamp duty as you aren't "buying" a second residential property only agricultural land/buildings. Note that for class Q the building has to be in agricultural use. I wonder if the council might try arguing that once transferred to you the land its too small to be a farm therefore the building cannot be in agricultural use? It might be worth getting class Q approved before transfer to you but that might increase CGT for the person gifting you the land. Might be worth speaking to a planning consultant to see if theses concerns are valid. Certainly don't go removing any evidence of agricultural use. Note that storing cars or household items is also not agricultural use so some tidying up might be in order. Some councils go to great lengths checking old satellite photos etc for evidence of use if they don't want it converted. Other councils are much more relaxed. If you inherit or buy a plot and build a house or convert a building there is no stamp duty payable. That woukd only be payable on any future buyer if/when you sell it. Note that the Self Build VAT reclaim scheme is only available to people building/converting houses for themselves or family to live in not when building houses to sell for profit. Watch out for the CIL. You might be exempt but only if you formally apply for the exemption in advance and meet the rules.

Fresh cut/cleaned oak can look a bit white. If you just use Danish Oil it will darken to a honey colour but may continue to darken. Osmo Hardwax oil is probably a better bet. We have that on oak floors and looks great. On the outside of our house I've opted for one coat of Danish and then several coats of Satin/Clear Osmo UV protection oil (different product to the Hardwax oil). This seems to have halted the darkening process so it remains a nice honey colour. Osmo UV protection Oil on its own keeps the oak a bit too white for my taste. They do make different colours but I've not tried them. You can sometimes get small sample samples of Osmo products. Worth trying before you paint everything.

Youtube recommended this vid about the quality of LBC bricks..

You can always just use a pipe stat to turn off the UFH loop pump (or the whole system) if the flow/manifold is too hot.

Cant be too hard to arrange the tracks and doors to meet at 90 though? Just need to decide which one overlaps the other?

Sure looks like one of those "halogen bulbs inside a regular bulb" but with the regular glass bulb missing. Might have been like that for ages as it will work without the outer glass.

Either will normally work but do run it past your SE.

I usually persuade my wife to get out and open the gate.

We have a 25mm meter connected to 32mm pipe to the house. Seems to work very well. Haven't felt the need to upgrade to a bigger meter. Currently feeds two quite high flow rate showers.

Try Google "Top hung sliding partition doors site:.uk" or "single track sliding door site:.uk" without quotes.

There's your answer, give her the job 🙂 We had to produce one but only because they wanted us to plant a 60m hedge. My guess is they only want to know what the front garden will look like. What do nearby houses have out front? Perhaps just specify the hardstanding areas, grass area, fencing and any drainage to prevent rainwater run off, throw in a standard tree or two (Standard size trees range from about £60 for Silver Birch to £300+). Native hedging is cheap. Chances are they will never come and check.

I think given there are several potential issues (rafters, joists, purlin, dormers?) I would get an SE involved. Have him do a site visit and give you an initial opinion of the work involved and a quote for the drawings and calculations needed for Building Control Approval.

I checked.. My TRADA span tables are out of date but still provide a guide. They say 195x44 joists are limited to about 3.5 to 4m span. The table doesn't go as high as 6.5m. The max is just under 6m and suggests something much bigger is needed, perhaps more than 235 x 89mm. I believe the latest version allows slightly greater spans but not that much greater! Do they really span >6m or do they rest on interior walls downstairs?

+1 We needed a structural ridge beam. Quite a lot of steel.

I suspect the roof membrane isn't vapour permeable so will need 50mm ventilated void under. I would try for more than 150mm insulation if possible. We wish we had put more insulation in our 1.5 storey house. Check 190mm is enough for floor joists with a 6.5m span. I don't have my old TRADA tables with me right now.

Spread it out.. Planning Permission might be required to raise ground levels.

I think that will work. I would put a waxed bolt in the inserts to ensure the epoxy doesn't get into the threads before setting up. The 24h stuff is stronger than 5min. Main issue I see is... By the time you need to replace one the oak will have changed colour so the new one may not match.

My 5x6m outbuilding is on approx 150mm hardcore and 150mm concrete, no rebar. Timber frame with clay tiled roof.

With some mixers you can just take the cartridge out and put it back in a different position without redoing plumbing. This might be useful if only one mixer not all are wrong.

No they would need to be on each mixer. Im not sure this is the problem but I've heard that when the valves are missing water can sometimes flow down a hot (or cold) pipe, through a mixer that is OFF and back up the other pipe the wrong way. From there it goes to another a mixer that is ON. So the one that is ON effectively has two hot feeds or two cold feeds. Perhaps try allowing all mixers to cool down fully then turn one on full hot. While that's running hot go to the other mixers and feel them to see if they are heating up. Don't turn them on just feel the mixer to see if its getting obviously hotter when it's been off for ages.