Temp

Yes see reply above.

It would help if they had numbered the drawings. Its as @iSelfBuild suggested.. This one is the "massive frame" in two parts (A and B) that goes down first. Build from parts 91, 96 and 110. This one is the bearer frame that goes on top. Build from parts 94 and 106.

OK I reckon the "2 parts" he refers to are "Side A" and "Side B" build from parts 91, 96 and 110. Then the bearer frame on top build from parts 94 and 106.

96 and 110 is written on drawing "Side A" and "Side B" 94 is written on the bearer drawing. Can you find parts 94?

It looks like the "massive wooden frame" isn't detailed in the Instructions.pdf file or the video. I think @iSelfBuild is correct. I would reply asking if drawing 5442 "Side A" and "Side B" is the "Massive timber frame" he refers to.

There are some areas, especially near the seaside, where all houses are bungalows. Will be interesting to see if they are allowed to build extra floors.

Did he say why? I can't think of a Building Regs reason but can think of a few possible planning reasons.

https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/amp/news/permitted-development-new-rights-update-to-come-into-effect-on-1-august New Permitted Development rights allowing two-storey upwards extensions to blocks of flats will come into force on 1 August, the government has announced. It has been expected for several months that this change to Permitted Development rights will be allocated first to purpose-built blocks of flats, before eventually being rolled out to all detached properties. In March, housing secretary Robert Jenrick said in the Ministry of Housing Communities and Local Government’s ‘Planning for the Future’ document: “We will introduce new permitted development rights for building upwards on existing buildings by summer 2020, including to extend residential blocks by up to two storeys and to deliver new and bigger homes.”

Deleted I was wrong.

I would make the big TV door 1200 or 1220 wide instead of 1240mm to allow it to fit a standard sheet and use strong hinges. To keep it flat you might need stiffeners on the back above and below the TV and possibly different and/or multiple catches. One issue could be fixing the hinges to the door. Not much thickness to screw into. I'm sure it's all solvable but needs a bit of thought. Depends how pretty you want it to look when the big door is open? If thats not important it would be easier.

I think the TV door has a hole in it for the TV.

Ok so I believe this is in the Business and Planning Bill. It has lots of different measures in it from longer construction hours to extending driving licenses and cafe use of pavements and street closures.. https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/bills/cbill/58-01/0148/200148.pdf It has NOT yet received Royal Assent but is heading to the Lords. Status here.. https://services.parliament.uk/bills/2019-21/businessandplanning.html If you have already filed to extend then they should take this into account when deciding your application. You might want to continue with it as that would give you three years not just next April. I wouldn't withdraw it too hastily in case the bill fails.

Have you already purchased it? You can get 18mm (13mm ply, 5mm oak?) herringbone engineered flooring but I don't know if its rated as structural (eg for use without additional ply)... https://www.saleflooringdirect.co.uk/item/794/EngineeredHardwoodFlooring/Engineered-Marrone-Brown-Herringbone.html https://www.saleflooringdirect.co.uk/item/899/EngineeredHardwoodFlooring/Engineered-Oak-Herringbone-18mm-x-120mm.html

No. Because its over 3m deep on a semi/terrace it needs "a prior approval application" to which the neighbour has objected. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/17/extensions If the only reason for rejection was the neighbours objection about a possible future roof terrace then the best thing to do is just make a planning application. If the planning officer added other objections that would be a different matter. The fact that other similar extensions have already been allowed in the road should be pointed out in the application. In fact you could make out you really want an 8m extension but have limited it to 6m so its consistent with previously approved extensions in the road.

Thing is planning conditions have to be "necessary for valid planning reasons" or they can be challenged/appealed. You can't convert a flat roof to a balcony (aka Raised platform) without getting planning permission so the planners may say such a planning condition doesn't meet the criteria of being "necessary". But hey worth a shot if it solves the problem.

Got a feeling the Building Regs require 18mm minimum thickness for structural floor boards. That's probably why he's saying to fit ply first. Your best bet is going to be to find 18-21mm thick Engineered flooring. In the case of carpet over UFH they recommend you keep the TOG value for the carpet and underlay below 2.0-2.5 total. Unfortunately I don't know how to translate that to mm of plywood. Just for info special low TOG underlay is available (0.6-0.7). Also carpet with hessian rather than rubber backing is lower TOG. Just watch out because some carpet is made in both versions and the carpet showrooms sometimes reserve the right to supply either in their T&Cs.

Its all going to come down to the exact wording of that access right. Every comma or missed apostrophe might matter.

What you could do is... Offer to sell it to them for a nominal £1 inc costs subject to contract. Get an acceptance in writing and then back out. Any claim to adverse possession would then fail because the agreement to purchase would amount to them admitting you own it. ...but they would never speak to you again!

Presumably in addition to the ransom strip there is something in the deeds to your bungalow (or the ransom strip?) that allows you access but which would prevent access if you split the bungalow plot in two? Have you had the wording of that checked carefully to see if it's enforceable? Many old covenants aren't because of court cases have changed or clarified the rules. One option might be to dream up a scenario for "dual ownership" that requires the neighbours help without mentioning your plans to split and develop the land. Perhaps something like "My brother wants to lend me some money to do up the bungalow but he's asked to be on the deeds in case I can't pay him back. I can't give him half due to this covenant... "

As @Construction Channel said, if its a special laminate finish one standard 8*4 sheet will be too small. If you know what the make is Google to see if they make it in bigger sheets.

I believe it just has to be received before you start. However the consequences of it getting any of this paperwork wrong, lost in the post or even lost within their office are dire. One person sent them an email instead of posting form 6 and it ended up costing him over £40,000 in CIL, a surcharge and legal costs. You should send them recorded delivery and wait for confirmation of reciept, keep copies etc. I believe the full process is.. 1) Assume liability (Forms 2, 3, or 4) 2) Apply for exemption (Form 7, Part 1) 3) Notify them of commencement date BEFORE doing any work on site (Form 6). 4) After completion but within 6 months send Form 7, Part 2. 5) Live there 3 years. No responsibility accepted if I've got any of that wrong!

I was so pissed of with our planning officer I considered changing the roof tiles to a mixture of colours and hiding something rude about him in Chinese script, Morse code or Braille.

Ok just to be sure I believe the full process is.. 1) Assume liability (Forms 2, 3, or 4) 2) Apply for exemption (Form 7, Part 1) 3) Notify them of commencement date BEFORE doing any work on site (Form 6). 4) After completion but within 6 months send Form 7, Part 2. 5) Live there 3 years. Would be wise to send any forms by recorded delivery and/or ask for written confirmation of receipt because one lost form either in the post or in their office could spell disaster. Best not leave any until the last moment. No responsibility accepted if I've got any of that wrong!

Sorry to contradict but there must be a min 12mm level change (Part J, Diagram 27 top right hand side). Apparently it's to discourage rugs migrating onto the hearth where embers might fall out onto them.

I'd probably lay them perpendicular to the existing but does that suit the room? If not make sure the existing are well fixed down and should be ok parallel. We were advised to glue the boards together using plenty of glue. We also fixed them down to battens but floating is ok. Our supplier recommend using a glue pot and brush to get good glue coverage on both sides and bottom of the groove rather than just running the nozzle of the glue along the groove which ends up with poor coverage. The transition should be fine if the levels are right. However I would probably run boards across the transition rater than parallel with it. There are different thicknesses of engineered oak. 14 and 20/21mm are common. The 21mm typically has a 6/7mm oak wear layer on 14mm plywood. You can re-sand engineered boards several times over their life, in fact about as many times as solid (until the T&G fails). I strongly recommend Osmo Hardwax Oil for the finish as any recoating in years to come is less visible. We git ours ready coated which minimises the risk of it getting marked or stained during laying. PS: Shop around for samples and try them at home. I picked up lots at a show. Some looked fine at the show but horrible when we got them home in natural light a few were positively orange due to the finish used. PPS There should be a gap around the edge under the skirting to allow for expansion. Ours expand in summer when it's humid and contract in winter when the air is dry.