Temp

Water isn't compressible so any pressure you have in the system with the stopcock is off is effectively maintained by stretch in the pipework which isn't much. In short you don't have to loose much water to loose pressure, especially if there is no expansion vessel. It could be as little as a dripping tap or WC. Temperature changes will also affect the pressure when off.

Unfortunately a lot of industries need people that are flexible due to the nature of the projects they do. I was in the electronics industry but only speant about 10% of my time doing electronics design. Had to do everything from designing labels to writing manuals and production related documents. The most valuable team members were the ones that would/could turn their hand to anything, especially if/when there had to be redundancies. Being good at everything might help if you fancy becoming a site manager or even setting up your own building Co.

When we were doing our due diligence for our plot in 2005 we spoke to companies about the electric connection and a 4" water main diversion. Both routes were across the plot and grass verge, none involved a road crossing. Both suggested budgeting about £100 a meter. As I recall the electric ended up a bit cheaper but the water main diversion was a bit more. The water company were so inefficient though. Some days the team turned up, waited around for the digger and were told it was needed elsewhere. The work was done in 2007 and I doubt it's got a lot cheaper. If building again I'd definitly look at doing more ourselves to try and save but I've heard some people have had ridiculous quotes when they asked for them to be split into contestable and noncontestable.

Im not an SE but my understanding is that a ridge beam (as distinct from a ridge board) is intended to support a lot of the weight of the roof when it can't be triangulated to stop the walls being pushed out. The roof partly "hangs" from the beam. To make that work you tie the two rafters together above the beam with metal plates. Google found this image but I would check with your designer.

ChatGPT says.. I asked if there were any specific connectors to check and it said.. Disconnect power first though!

It's working now but you may have to scroll down a few pages. Looks like they are pausing their draft local plan. Eg no point submitting a draft for approval if it will be rejected because the target number of new houses has been increased (doubled).

If you had to pay someone to do it all I've be using a figure of about £100 a meter which would be £22k. Thought I would ask ChatGPT and it suggested... 35-50mm^2 copper Cable: £3,300 - £6,600 Trenching & Installation: £8,100 - £14,000 Total Estimate: £11,400 - £20,600 Of the Trenching & Installation it thought conduit and back fill would be £30-£50 per meter and labour would be £1500 to £3000. Not sure I agree with its breakdown but you also have a road to cross?

Why hasn't the seller got Planning Permission themselves? That would push up the value of the plot.

+1 TP might not be the cheapest but they used to offer free delivery on some items (within 12 miles?).

Has there been a change in the regs because I thought they always had 10 years to enforce a change of use?

But is it legal use?

Unfortunately the planners have 10 years to initiate enforcement action when an unauthorized change of use has occurred. If he or the previous owner have used it as a worship for nearly 10 years I would wait and meanwhile collect up as much evidence as possible. When you have good evidence file for a certificate of lawfulness on the grounds that they cannot initiate enforcement action. They will try and prove the breech didn't occur until more recently by looking at street view or satellite images. So be sure you can prove it. Letters from a neighbour or previous owner stating facts might help. Rebuilding now would/could attract attention from the planners that might be unwelcome. Typically this is triggered by an upset neighbour complaining. Agricultural buildings can be constructed without Planning Permission in some cases but you would have to show it was necessary for an agricultural business. Some councils will say a farm cannot be a viable agricultural business under a certain size like 7 acres. It's quite possible for the planners to decide the building has no officially sanctioned use.

If it touches the garage it would be considered both a side and rear extension. The most problematic PD rule is is the one that precludes side extensions being more than half the original width of the house and garage. It looks like yours would be about 2/3rds of the width. I think you will need Planning Permission for that reason.

I might be wrong but I thought an LDC had to be granted or refused on objective/factual grounds rather than subjective grounds. Eg It either meets Permitted Development rules or it doesn't. What reasons were given for refusal?

The aerated core probably turns it into a box section. The bolt holes on the new/failed units appear to be further apart vertically so the top bolt hole appears to be through part of the solid top skin rather than the core like the older units.

My understanding is.. a) One of the objectives of the PWA is to provide some protection for neighbours. That's why you're paying for their surveyor. If they won't co-operate with "their" surveyor that can't be held against you. Keep copies of letters and a note of your attempts to involve them. Dates you called or knocked on their door etc. b) Even if you follow the letter of the PWA and follow all of the surveyors advice during construction it is still possible for you to damage a neighbours property inadvertently. In such cases if you failed to rectify the damage you could be sued for the cost of repairs BUT because you took precautions by involving surveyors it's unlikely you could also be sued for negligence. Any money awarded might also be reduced if the neighbours failure to co-operate contributed to the damage in some way. c) This is what site insurance is for. Your site insurance should cover damage to neighbours property. If you are relying on a builders policy make sure to check what it covers and keep a copy of the certificate. When we built site insurance wasnt outrageously expensive for what it covered but that was 2007.

Shouldn't need to worry about derating wires as the current with LED is pretty low.

Yikes. Dont tell the moling company what they quoted. Some recent figures here... https://thefarmingforum.co.uk/index.php?threads/moling-under-road-and-subsoiling-water-pipe-through-field.403469/

Think that should be 775mm?

I think you can put a flat area outside the door with a step down to the drive straight ahead and a ramp off to the side. Just check the height allowed before a rail is required. You are allowed to use things like planters to make it look less like a hospital entrance.

This exact situation is used as an example here... https://www.taxinsider.co.uk/wrong-vat-shown-on-invoices-what-happens-next

Arrange for the WiFi stat to be powered off the regular mains and switch a relay coil. Have the relay contacts switch the output of the PV diverter to the immersion heater.

They don't appear to be adjustable so wont point downwards so there would be a lot of glare.

One option might be perimeter lighting using LED strips pointing up towards the opposite ceiling pitch. Make the whole ceiling glow.

There are some adjustable LED downlights designed for small voids but you will have to search and check the void depth required. The specified void depth normally includes the plasterboard layer but check. Just one example Google found.. https://www.nationallighting.co.uk/nitropro-tri-wattage-360-recessed-fire-rated-4cct-8w-led-downlight-dimmable-ip44-matt-white?vat=1&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-I2y5sDghwMVJZdQBh0AIwcCEAQYAiABEgIHK_D_BwE Min void for that one is 45mm so would need 33mm battens and 12mm plasterboard. Get RGB colour controllable will be harder but.. https://www.lightingstyles.co.uk/adjustable-cct-fire-rated-led-downlight---bathroom-suitable but colour not fully adjustable. Just cool to warm. again 45mm void. If already battened can you add another layer of battens?