AliG

Not sure if you only posted a picture and no plans, it says 3 downloads but I only see a PDF picture. Is the pool outside or inside? I am guessing maybe outside if you plan to heat it in the summer. I did a lot of work on the cost of heating a pool. Basically if you put a pool outside, heating costs are high as there is very little to stop the heat escaping. However, you don't need to worry about dehumidifying which is expensive on my indoor pool. The biggest thing that helps is for the pool to have a proper cover as a lot of the cost of heating a pool is that warm water evaporates from the surface of the pool and is then replaced by cold mains water which needs to be heated up. Stopping the evaporation stops this heating cost. Depending on the size you are probably looking at 100kwh a day to heat an outside pool, according to what I can find online. So that is £3 in mains gas or £4 in electricity via a heat pump. This is a very rough guess depending on the size of the pool, how hot you want it etc, turning the temperature up considerably increases the costs so people normally run outside pools colder, around 27C. You will also spend quite a bit on electricity for the filter pump, a few hundred a year. I would question why you would install a separate ASHP and not just use the GSHP to heat the pool. You will be looking at a multi thousand bill, so even if it has a slightly better COP in the summer it won't offset the extra cost of another heat pump. If you have mains gas available I would just use that. Electricity currently costs more than 5x the price of gas, not enough for the COP of a heat pump to offset plus the installation costs are considerably cheaper. We heat the whole house and pool from a standard Bosch 40kw boiler.

So the 4 port mixer is gargling horribly and the flow meters bounce up and down. It seems to be knackered. I will get out the installer to have a look and probably replace the valve.

Good morning everyone. The saga continues - We already had one of the mixer valves play up and be replaced around a year ago. This one may be having a similar issue. The mixer valve has been set at two for two years. Set at two last night, no water flowed through the manifold. I had to turn it up to 3.5/4 before the water flowed. But then the temperature in the manifold passed 48C which seems to be the safety cut off. The manifold is also quite noisy, when the mixer valve does open up there is a lot of bubbling etc.

Good question. We have 4 manifolds and this is the only one that hit the temperature cut off. There is no sign of exactly what level this is. It might be that it is in a sealed cupboard in the constantly warm laundry room. Looking at the weekly chart on the Heatmiser, I think the heating was coming on in the mornings, but not at night if the room cooled down. It might just be that after it ran for a while the cupboard got hot and pushed up the temperature a little bit more at the probe than on the other manifolds. Certainly the temp fell when I turned the mixer valve down. I will check it again in the morning. The boiler is now sitting at 68C, no point setting it much higher than the hot water temperature. I think that is roughly where it was set before. I spent ages setting up all the manifolds two winters ago as depending on whether rooms have wooden or tiled floors and how much sun they get I found I needed quite different flow temperatures to heat them up in an acceptable time. The idea was that rooms should warm up at the same rate. It was all working quite nicely.

Thanks very much @Nickfromwales and everyone else. When the pubs open up if you’re round my way I owe you all a drink. Two things I have learned. Check your boiler after it gets serviced. Those things that look like temperature probes in the manifolds will switch off your UFH if they get too hot.

I turned down the mixer so it cooled down faster. Switched it off then back on. @Nickfromwales said “let there be light”

Not quite there yet. Turning down the boiler has dropped the temp at the manifold to 48. Still hasn’t come back on. It might be that the probe is still too hot

Thanks guys, we might have cracked it. When he serviced the boiler the guy turned it up to MAX. It was sitting at 80C. I normally have it set closer to 60. Let see if the manifold cools down and the pump magically fixes itself.

Off to check the boiler

No, I haven't adjusted anything and I know how to set the flow temperature at the manifold. The only difference that might cause it to be hotter than before as it was all fine then is if the guy who serviced the boiler a few weeks ago turned up the temperature on the boiler.

That is one tool I don't have. Always a bit reticent to go sticking things in live electrics.

Can I unscrew the probe without worrying about it causing a leak? I assume it just goes into a metal pocket.

Thanks, that could be it. I was trying to find mention of it in the instruction manual. The probe is wired into the grey box along with the power, but I couldn't find anything to explain what they do. Presumably if it is switched off and cools down then it would come back on. The boiler is maybe turned up higher than it was last winter, it was just serviced.

I took it off and checked the wiring which was all tight. The other option is that for some reason, although the Heatmiser clicks and the valve light comes on, it doesn't actually send power to the pump. I took the cover off it and checked the wiring was tight there also. My guess is the pump is the most likely item to break, especially as improbably didn't run for a good 6 months until recently. Also when the system was installed it was wired up so the thermostat in one room was connected to the actuator for another room. That had the pump running almost constantly for a couple of months, but I don't think that would do it much harm.

It is saying 52C. I think it is set at somewhere in the 40s, but the boiler has been pumping hot water to the manifold all day as the room hasn't been heating up. I assume that even though the pump isn't running at the manifold, because it has been calling for heat almost constantly the whole manifold has heated up.

Was in the middle of a TV show - priorities That's fair. But if I can give him an idea of what the problem likely is then hopefully I don't end up paying for multiple visits etc. They are almost an hour away.

I have had the installer back to fix a few things, but it has been in over two years now, so feel I should probably be paying someone.

Pictures as requested - The wiring seems fine, I was wondering if you could pull the cord out, I guess I could try pulling it out and putting it back in, but it is tightly in there at the moment. First picture is the offending unit, second is another one where the LED ring lights is lighting up when it is running.

It’s a Wilo Yonos Para. No LED comes on and it’s not running. So I am wondering if it could have seized and that caused the electronics to blow. Or they could have just went. Can’t think of any other reason why it wouldn’t be working. I need half an hour to get a pic if it helps.

Hi, I thought that my daughter's bedroom wasn't heating up very quickly so I had a look at the manifold. The pump isn't coming on when the Heatmiser calls for heat. As it worked before and I cannot see any issue with the wiring, could it be that the pump seized up through not being used during summer and then blew when it came on as it got colder? If I was brave enough to change the pump myself would it just be a matter of turning off the water on each side of the pump. There is an isolator on every pipe. And swapping the pump over? I might just get someone in as it would be quite a quick job.

I would think the plinth is just decorative and so it just has to support its own weight. What concerns me is the picture of the rear of the house, was the render as filthy as it looks? I have never seen anything like that on a relatively new house, or indeed any house that I can think of. I assume that the design of the plinth means that water just runs off it and down the wall? All the stonework on my house has drip beads, but I can see it would be hard to do with that design.

TBH I think the mould cleaner is just expensive bleach

What is a reasonable price for Siberian larch fitted on battens? I am being quoted around £100 a square metre plus extra for the reveals into windows.

In case anyone has a similar issue. I hired a one man tower and set it up. Scrubbed off the dirt with water and Fairy Liquid. You could still see the stains. I sprayed it with Cillit Bang Black Mould Remover, left it for a few minutes and rinsed it off. Worked a treat. You can only very faintly see where the stain was, if I had left it on longer it would have been better, but I wasn't really enjoying being up the tower. I now plan to use this on my garden walls where I have some areas of staining.

Yes, the attitude of the architects was so much better.