SteamyTea

It's OK @Sensus, to misquote Gavin Newsom, you are excused from my conversations.

If you stick with your architect, won't he just pass on the design to an architectural technician to do the real work.

I like picohydro, and 2 kW is a useful amount of power. Stick 4 kWh of battery storage on it, that will give you 6 kW, so a usable amount of power. You can run a kettle, a kW induction hob and the oven. The inverter for that lot will be £1500 though.

Can you work out if you are getting anymore power out of the system than before?

Power = Mass x Gravity x Height x Efficiency Power = 0.002 [m3.s-1] x 9.81 [m.s-2] 110 [m]x 0.9 [eff] Power = 1.94 kW About the same as a Honda generator that costs 600 quid. (I may have misunderstood the flow rate)

Yes, an interesting map. Can anyone beat my index of multiple deprivation of 40.2 There is a bit of Penzance, that has 67.2, but only 10.2% of properties don't have gas, compared to 67.8% where I am. Fuel poverty for my area is 21%, for that bit of Penzance it is 20.1%.

No, it is not legal to use as firewood.

Do you mean that, or embodied carbon?

We are in contact with the air, and we breath it in. Can't say the same for my floor, or walls.

Fit a smart meter, that logs exports. Or make up a logger that texts data over. Mind you, If I had a system that someone else was getting the FiTs on, I would switch it off. Then negotiate a price.

Switch the AC to the inverter off first, that takes the load off the DC side, then turn the DC isolators off. Or do the work after 5 PM.

Yes, it does seem the voltage is OK, maybe a problem with Sanyo HIT modules as they are 55V max load modules. Must be a large DC isolator. Had one burn out once when the electrician miss wired one.

The 4300S has a maximum DC voltage of 780V. Do you know what voltage your modules are. Do you have a spec sheet for them? Does look like it would be better off wired as two strings. Have you had any errors showing on the display?

My initial thoughts is that if all the modules are wired in series the voltage will go over the LV limit of 1000V. This does depend on which modules are fitted. What inverter do you have fitted?

May still need planning consent. Which aspect of 'green'? Like Eco, it actually means nothing. My diesel car is more green than an equivalent petrol car to a climate scientist, but to a respiratory doctor, it is far worse.

When I had my EPC survey done, my house magically doubled in size. What should happen, is that purchasers should take the survey seriously, get everything costed out, then subtract the price of the remedial work off the purchase price. May get some sensibly priced housing then. The whole housing market is based of fantasy. That is my rant over, for a few minutes anyway.

Heating is all about sizing correctly. The lower temperature that is used by an ASHP is really a diversion, try putting your hand in water at 48°C and you will see what I mean. First thing you need to do is calculate your heat load. This is a relatively simple calculation, it just involved knowing (or making some assumptions) the U-Values (W.m-2.K-1) the area of each external wall, window and door, plus the floor and roof, and the expected external temperatures (from the Met Office for your area). Then you can, for any desired internal temperature, calculate the heat loss. This will set the maximum losses, which is the same as the maximum load your heating system needs to deliver. From that you can then, depending on your choice of heating system i.e. GSHP, ASHP, Gas, Storage Heaters... go looking for suitable emitters (radiators, forced air, UFH). Domestic Hot Water (DHW) is pretty simple. Just a case of working out how much water you need, then the energy needed to heat it up. You probably have this information already a you own a hows with bills. Moving house does not change the amount of hot water that is used, generally.

There is the VAT position and the certificate of completion. But then there is also cashflow.

Sorry for the delay in the reply, I watched some Heing and Sheing, then some Sheing and Sheing on the internet. Now busy Meing and Meing.

Or a wanker.

If you have access to the electrical grid, compare the costs of running a wind turbine against E7/E10. If you are off grid, compare it to running a generator, or having suitably sized battery storage, as well as thermal storage. If the numbers still stack up, then ask an installation company to arrange a visit as they may well know the ins and outs of the local planning.

Probably not as much as the reduced humidity caused by the frost. A sheltered position is probably worth something, don't want the wind pushing itself against the fan.

I had this annoying strike though problem before, is someone playing with the forum software at the moment.

Goes back to the Unit of Energy, the joule [J]. A joule can be expressed as more simple, understandable units of the kilogram [kg], the metre [m] and time in seconds J = (kg.m2) / s2 Once you have a joule, which can be considered as a box of energy, power, is the rate you take the energy out of that box. Power is the watt [W]. There is a direct conversion between J and Wh. I wish we always dealt in joules, rather than watt.hour. It is just messy.

No need to go back to the wood if it is stuck okay. Make sure you get rid of all those horrible little spiky bits, they may look small, but can cause s similar problem. A sanding discs on an angle grinder is the quick way to remove GRP. Don't worry about the dust, you are going to itch until you get in a shower or bath, for the next 30 years, at least.