SteamyTea

Almost. High humidity can cause frosting up of the units, but they are designed to cope with this. The efficiency drop in cold weather is more to do with the higher water temperatures people want, rather than the lower amount of energy 'in the air'. You get a quirk where the efficiency can seem to go very low if you calculate using the celsius or fahrenheit scale, but that, magically, vanishes when you change to the kelvin scale. WOW, you must have spent hours designing your gas system to be that good. Oh, hang on a second, you made that up.

where? Yes, I would like to know where all the reports of these failing ASHPs is.

Penzance is 300 miles from London as well, Hastings is what, 65miles.

It is just @Dave Jones trolling again.

It is heading your way now, should have pasted me by morning. What a difference from last week.

Cast iron has a SHC of 0.46 kJ/kg.°C Water has a SHC of 4.18 kJ/kg.°C So it takes almost 10 times as long for any particular heat input i.e. 10 kW, to heat water. Same for cooling down.

There are basically two types of ASHPs. Fixed Speed/Fixed Output Variable Speed/Variable Output (inverter driven) A fixed speed is like having a car that only runs at maximum revs, all the time power is needed, then it shuts down. An inverter driven one can work at full speed if needed, but is usually working at a 'lower speed'. If the system is designed correctly, it will very really work at more than about 70% capacity. As the noisy bit is generally the air fan, shifting less air reduces noise. It may seem counter intuitive to oversize a heating system, but with HPs this is the norm, just like it is with cars.

Apart from legislation (possible), why bother with a thermal mixer at all? Put your hand under the shower, if it is too hot, turn it down.

What make and model was it and what sort of power was it delivering when you viewed it?

Glad you read it, saves me bothering.

I am sure you can get one made, but you can always use a plate heat exchangers and an extra pump.

If you swap a 60W light bulb for a 10W LED one, you are reducing the power draw to 16%, call it 20% to allow for naff transformers. Now say you had 30 60W bulbs, that would be, if they are all on together, 1.8 kW, but the LED will be 0.3 kW a 1.5 kW difference, or about half the power a kettle draws. Keep things in perspective. If is a rare day you need anything like that sort of power, anywhere. Unless you like burning everything. I have never understood why people by high power hobs, the skill is in not burning your tea. If you need to boil a large pan of water fast, use the kettle, they are better at boiling water.

And quite possibly a pure sinewave, so a more expensive inverter. Like a PV system, a wind turbine will only give the rated output when the conditions are right i.e. 800W, direct beam for solar, 20 m/s windspeed for a turbine (or whatever the production curve is). This is why battery storage is used, it can soak up all the smaller generation packets and store them for later. So a larger battery would be needed ideally. It eventually get to the point where thermal storage becomes cheaper i.e. in water, and then just pump that about.

Yes, or hotter. If ceiling mounted radiant heating worked, we would all be doing it. There is also the distance from the radiant source to take into account, though at a couple if metres, this is not generally significant, and the object you are trying to heat, which may have an exposed surface area many times smaller than the emitter. Also, humans breath, so regardless of the person's surface temperature, if they are breathing in cold air, they will be cooling.

Give it a go and then tell us you you think it is not a good idea.

I just went to sleep, better use of night time.

Some people have found that there is no wayleave agreement when cables cross their land, then use that as a bargaining point. Also try to design out the need for such a large load, PV and battery/thermal storage can reduce the peak power considerably.

I can forgive students at first, why they came to my lectures. By showing how the units are derived explains so much. But when it comes to energy (heat in old money), we should really use joules, it makes so much more sense.

Have a look at air to air heat pumps. Quick search found this. https://www.aircon.panasonic.eu/GB_en/ranges/domestic/ You can also get multi spits. https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/iqool-3ms9k9k9k/tcl-iqool3ms9k9k9k-air-conditioner

That is a bit of a sweeping statement. I was very impressed with the effects that Monodraught got from their sunpipes. Slight disclaimer, I had done some work with them in the past.

That works out at ~18W/m2, which does not seem excessively high for an old place. (it is late and I may have made an error) But it is still ~160 kWh/m2.year. A quick google shows this. https://www.ovoenergy.com/guides/energy-guides/how-much-heating-energy-do-you-use.html UK average seems to be about 133

How big is the place (m2), how much DHW do you expect to use (litres/day), is it detached, semi, terrace, number of stories, is the loft converted to a habitable area? Does it use 34,500 kWh/year (~35 MWh/year) (kW is power, kWh is energy, kw is a nonsense unit, as is kwh, kW/h, KWH). It may seem a bit snobby and pedantic mentioning the units, but apart from the odd type, if you get a quote that is incorrectly mixing SI units, consistently misquoting derived units, and the worse, mixing SI and Imperial units i.e. kWh/square foot, be very wary of the company.

Yes, very important, especially if you look at Carrier, or rebadged Carrier units. Seems a reasonable price, what power it it?

Used to live just up the road in Abbot's Langley. Had some nice times in the grounds if the Abbey, especially when they had no traffic wardens in the area.