SteamyTea

Do it, costs little and the usage of the shed may change in future. This is where you want high thermal resistivity on the inside. Control the air temperature rather than the fabric of the shed.

The currents are more the aggregate, but we all know they are squashed flies really. The glutton can be considered a fibre as it is elastic and dispersed in the mix. Though if they are wholemeal, the dark strands of fibre, that we are told are good for us, also acts as reinforcement. Easier to just go for Nice biscuits, then dunk them in your tea.

Yes, they claim it will be a tenth of the price. The real problem is we don't have the right physics at the atomic level. Who decided it was a good idea to have electron shells, what we want is odd numbers of electrons loosely bound to the nucleus, and stop that trick of everything wanting to go to the lowest energy state, less entropy is needed (or is it more, I never know).

If you are interested in energy storage, you can sign up to this. https://www.energy-storage.news/ Not had any spam from them.

Or an article about heating controls. Not one SI unit, or even a number in it apart from wall depth.

A quick look at Wikipedia: Metal–air battery Theoretical specific energy, Wh/kg (including oxygen) Theoretical specific energy, Wh/kg (excluding oxygen) Calculated open-circuit voltage, V Aluminium–air 4300[5] 8140[6] 1.2 Germanium–air 1480 7850 1 Calcium–air 2990 4180 3.12 Iron–air 1431 2044 1.3 Lithium–air 5210 11140 2.91 Magnesium–air 2789 6462 2.93 Potassium–air 935[7][8] 1700[Note 1] 2.48[7][8] Sodium–air 1677 2260 2.3[9][10] Silicon–air 4217 9036 1.6[11] Tin–air at 1000 K[12] 860 6250 0.95 Zinc–air 1090 1350 1.65

With cheap smart phones, you can download a sound meter. May be an idea for people to take some readings of their ASHPs, say at 1m, 2m, 5m and 10m. Be even more useful if the same readings were taken at different angles to the front, say every 30°. Best done when they are heating water as that will generally be the highest load.

Low density expanded polystyrene has a conductivity of 0.33 W/m.K. Air is 0.0262 W/m.K. The rest is just arithmetic.

There may be a slight difference, but hardly noticeable, as long as you are not reducing the overall area of the intake and outlet from the radiator. Imagine it is like leaving a door open a bit, or a lot. Don't overthink it.

Yes. The trouble is with the term 'thermal mass'. It has no official (or ofical if you are a card carrying Trump supporter) definition in the sciences, but is banded about as if it is something real, and good. It gives the impression that the 'count of stuff' is the important part and all materials are equal if they have the similar characteristics. What people are really talking about is thermal inertia, which does have units attached to it because it takes in all top level properties.

It is hard to describe, but the ones I have stood by is more of a hum and the occasional whoosh. Though I did hear one that was rattling, but then it was battered to hell (had secondary use as a bike stand). There is an estate in St. Agnes where every house has an ASHP, never heard anyone mention the noise, lack of performance or high running costs. There is a global map, the World Hum Map, where people log when they hear a hum (if they can be bothered). I notice that St. Agnes is devoid of 'hearings'. https://thehum.info/newhummap/html_docs/

What sort of noise do you think they make?

Which is, as you say, Specific Heat Capacity. But that is not 'thermal mass'. Try again.

Umm. What are the SI derived units for this?

The efficiency does not drop that much. E7 night rate is generally a shade under half the daytime rate, your CoP would therefore have to halve.

MCS have this about ground pipe lengths. http://www.gshp.org.uk/pdf/MIS_3005_Ground_loop_sizing_tables.pdf Personally I think an ASHP, correctly designed and installed, won't be a problem, but worth looking at other options and balancing them all up. Still trying to get my head around this.

Again, like an ASHP, properly designed, sized and installed, freezing is not a problem. (ground heave is usually because the pipes are too short and too shallow)

As odd as this may sound, if you are 'digging trenches', have you considered a GSHP. The actual unit does not have to be in the house, can be in a brick box or similar.

Have you done a room by room heat loss calculation for the space heating (if it is doing that). Seems a 500 litre buffer is rather large.

Was hoping to make an MVHR balancer, an air test gauge and general interest. My one experiment failed, but I think that was more to do with the poor design of the venturi.

I was hoping to make a differential pressure gauge, but got sidelined. When I am forced to stay at home I shall pick the project back up again.

Make sure you don't leave the water tank full in winter. My sister did, if froze, then split, and sunk her boat.

Let me know how you get on. I have used some BME280s, they work well, but are obviously not for a wet location. Just wish they were packaged better.

You will not get intersessional storage, maybe a few hours at best. Yo can do the calculations easy enough. This makes a difference with UFH, the temperature difference is greater between the floor and the ground, than it is with a radiator based system. It is why it is called Under Floor Heating, and not Pointy Up Heating.