SteamyTea

If you are with a small 'challenger' provider, you may find they disappear. I don't see how only being two of you in the house changes the house base load, that is a function of size and internal temperature. Changing your car could possibly save you £350 a year.

Yes, then Oxfordshire. Works here.

I am interested. Do you know the embodied energy to make those batteries, and the associated carbon emissions, which are of course regional.

This is about bricks. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/w3csz2w8

@craig should know the answer, he had broken more windows than Microsoft.

Do a quick search for Isle of Wight. Think there is about 4 people doing projects there.

Have you thought of starting a blog on here. A quick description of beams, pillars and crossmembers, the types in most common use, basic calculations to determine sizes and best practice to installing them. I would find it useful and save me having to find my copy of: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Why-Buildings-Fall-Down-Structures/dp/039331152X

On some standard electrical meters, the LED flashes when power is drawn from the grid i.e every Wh. It goes in permanently when exporting. If that is the case, a simple optical sensor could pick up the difference and divert power. A more expensive option would be battery storage in parallel with thermal storage. But that would require a BMS of some sort, and probably a secondary inverter. Has anyone actually looked at the fraction of time that their systems are importing, exporting and diverting. May find that the cost if diverting is greater than the savings over a typical year. That does depend on the kWh prices if imported energy and individual attitude to sharing green power with unknown consumers.

Does your diverter electrically isolate the 3 kW immersion heater from the grid when your 1.75 kWp system in generating? Would you not be better off with a 1 kW and a secondary 0.75 kW element (of maybe a 0.5 kW one as max power dies not happen that often).

That is because lawyers, accountants and medical doctors speak Latin, and we all know that means they went to a very posh private school. Anything to do with making stuff was left to the school failures, they speak in grunts, never wash, drive a van, smoke and swear. (I went to posh school, learnt Latin, and Greek, passed most of my exams, then downgraded to engineering. Made me look like the brightest in the class)

Welcome I am sure a plumber or two will be along, as will out two bathroom experts @Onoff and @pocster X is an unknow quantity, Spurt is a drip under pressure. (Isn't a Janner a Plymouth resident)

Jeremy Harris tried to explain it to me, I did not get it. Would it not also depend on how fast the inverter electronics are reacting as well, I assume they use 0 voltage switching, so at best the are on or off at 0.01s.

I was under the impression that metering was sampled at fixed time intervals i.e. 50ms. So every 0.05s, the voltage, amps and power factor are logged, then converted to actual power. Then averaged out over a time period i.e. 1 hour. Not sure if that is what is meant by 'energy bucket'.

Other way around: kWh

And it will set hard, consistently. Probably quite hard to get decent airthightness numbers without an installed membrane that is specifically for that purpose. The MVHR takes care of the moisture in the house and recovers the some energy.

Have you got some reference source for that? I thought that perspiration, which uses the the latent heat of evaporation, helped cool the body, and that relies on a external heat source and humidity level differences.

My mother's house, 1974 vintage, has hand made bricks, but with a normal cement based mortar. There has been no failures in it yet. One word of caution about hand made bricks, they are hard to match up if you build an extension later. The brickwork company closed down about 20 years ago, so the workforce has probably died off as well.

Yes, not many people live in walls, ceilings and floors, most live in the space between. We also breath the air in that space, so warm enough air helps reduce the bodies thermal losses (which may not be beneficial if trying to loose body mass, but that is another issue).

Why lime mortar?

Seems to be, probably because when the regs were written, UFH was not that common. But that should be of little concern to you, add as much insulation (smallest U-Value) as you can below the UFH pipework. It is not compulsory to work to the minimum standard.

Or something built in West Cornwall.

Yes Somewhere near the extention. OVO wanted an easy install, a simple replacement job. But you seem to have lots of space. Do you mean the 1.4m gap? If yes, then no. No, forget the Sunamp. Self design and install with a decent plumber. You need to do a decent heat loss analysis first. If you have monthly bills, this will help a lot. A kW (power) and a kWh (energy) are the same regardless of the way they are delivered. Temperature is not energy. And KWh, kwh, kw, Kw etc are not the correct units. Always look out for this on any quotes, may seem minor, but it shows a standard of care. The PV, when generating, and the ASHP when delivering will suck up any excess solar power, so timing becomes an issue, so run the ASHP between 10AM and 2 PM will help. A half decent ASHP will give a CoP of 2.5 when heating water, so that is over twice as good as resistance heating. Do that heat loss analysis first though.

I can't find any CoP/SCoP figures on the technical data. That would worry me. Dropping a temperature by 10°C means very little in itself. You have to know at what temperature it is dropping from, and the volume of air that is cooled (technically the mass flow rate of the air).

Shows that vaccination helps reduce symptoms. Still take it easy though.

Yes, several. They will have to defrost less, will cope better with any unexpected (though temperatures are known to swing wildly) cold periods, will heat your DHW quicker and will have a better CoP. The down side is you really need to fit a decent sized buffer tank, but you want to do that anyway. So have a look at the minimum volume your chosen heat pump, work out the smallest 'heating loop', if that is less than the minimum volume, you need to fit a buffer to up that volume. There will not be hardly any downside to doubling the minimum volume, it will reduce short cycling.