SteamyTea

Some RH sensors are capacitance based. Some switches are also capacitance based. Touching a terminal may just have changed the threshold enough to trigger the switch.

It is the place that organises all the generation data. @DamonHD is the main expert on it here. https://www.elexon.co.uk/knowledgebase/where-can-i-find-details-of-wholesale-prices-of-electricity-in-great-britain/ https://www.bmreports.com/bmrs/?q=eds/main

Those numbers seem insane. Is there anything on the ELEXON portal to show this as a general trend, or has Octopus over promised and under bought.

Probably not. This is a building control issue, not a planning one.

That is because your house is modern, and almost airtight. In an old Victorian place, both the above are missing. A secondary ASHP may need to add an extra 6 kW for 50 or 60 days a year, then occasionally an extra 8 kW. Too large a HP will short cycle horribly in the non heating season and be almost large enough to run an instantaneous shower. I am going these calculations in my head, and I am just off to work again, but I think having just one size ASHP, even allowing for modulation, is too high a risk.

It is your project, not the architects.

130 kWh / 4 h = 32.5 kW That would be a silly size. So maybe two ASHPs, one that does the space heating most of the time, so something like a 12 kW model into a thermal store/large buffer. And a secondary one for DHW and those odd days where air temperatures are lower than expected, say a 5 kW one. You are not going to get a cheap system that can run for only 4 hours and supply everything on the worse day. But we don't have many days like that, so why design the system for those extremes. And what do you do when Octopus pull the 4 hours cheap rate?

According to @pocster, everyone in Cornwall starts with 12 fingers and toes, it is only the webbing that masks the extra ones.

Dig a deep hole and bury your first attempt of building a house in it. Then build a new one on top.

An architect will work to minimum building regulations, while charging extra because they are 'the professional'. You really need to do a thermal model. Now as you like woodworking, have you considered a stick build?

10 quid fan heaters, it will not be long until the carbon content of our electricity supply will be 50g?kWh which will beat combustion technologies hands down every day. This is not how you set up a heat pump system. 130 kWh / 24 h is a power of 5.4 kW, which is ASHP terms is about as small as you can get.

The Building Regulations are here: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/697629/L1B_secure-1.pdf The L1B is for existing buildings. Seems to be 0.22W.m-2.K-1 unless it is an upgrade and then it is 0.25 While you may not have to improve the losses though the floor, you may want to. Part of thermal calculations is temperature difference, and as the ground does not change temperature much, and UFH heats the floor more than an unheated floor, it makes sense to insulate it more.

That will be worth following.

Am I (expletive deleted). But when I ride my sister's bike I split my difference.

That is my understanding, but it is over a decade since I was involved in it.

I got told that by a carpet fitter about 35 years ago. Had forgotten all about it.

Beware of strangers bearing gifts.

I got a £270 speeding fine for overcompensating the times I have been stuck in traffic. It don't work like that.

Has anyone mentioned degreasing the studs/bolts? If the resins is a polyurethane based one, moisture be of less of a concern. Often with epoxy resins it is hard to get a new mix to adhere to a fully cured mix. Many a long night I have spent in a workshop waiting for epoxy to cure enough to apply a new substrate.

Good on you, we like definitive answers on here. There is still some confusion about I stalled capacity and limited capacity AFAIK.

Start by looking up some data. https://flood-warning-information.service.gov.uk/river-and-sea-levels

I am a bit dubious about that. Reflectivity is the important part. Or in Cornish, "is it shiny or no". Colour is more to do with what wavelengths of light are absorbed. Not all wavelengths will give a problem, but that is getting into the Ultra Violet Catastrophe, which quickly leads into the quantum nature of photons.

Any reason you want a GSHP over and ASHP. There is a large price difference in the units and the installation costs. Don't get temperature, the ⁰C or K, confused with the power, the kW, of a unit. Power (kW) is also different from energy, the kWh unit is usually used in the domestic setting for energy, through the proper unit is the joule, you need 3,600,000 J to make a kWh. What you need to do first us a decent thermal model of the house. This will set the maximum heat load and the most likely power needed satisfy it. Going from an occupancy of 2 to 10 is a huge difference, you are probably financially better off with a secondary cylinder that just uses immersion heaters run directly off the mains electricity. To heat a cold, 200 litre cylinder to 60⁰ will probably take around 12 kWh of electricity. That will cost, even at 20p/kWh, £2.40 a day. Less that a couple of metres of GSHP pipe.

Isn't there a problem with galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals i.e. zinc (4 shells 2 outer electrons) and aluminium (3 shells, 3 outer electrons). Many module manufacturers will not warrantee their product unless a recognised mounting system is used.