SteamyTea

Sorry, thought you had already had the beads in.

If the cold, outside air, is getting past the beads in the cavity, this negates the point of insulation to a certain extent. Are you going to render on the outside to improve this?

Where is this air coming from, and is it bypassing any insulation?

Never used LoopCad. Others on here have. Maybe you should start a topic about it and get it turned I to a tutorial. Could be useful to many people. May need some help from the mods to keep it tidy. I use Excel to calculate most things. By somewhere on here is a link to Jeremy Harris's heat loss spreadsheet. Here it is

Not really sure what you are trying to find out here. Have you done a heat loss calculation on your place yet? Or are you trying to do it with this radiator sizing we site?

If it uses MicroPython, it may well work with the existing BME280 libraries. I see there is some networking code on github for it. Oh, and some BME280 code. Micro electronics is just fantastic compared to mechanical engineering.

Whenever I see a fan heater on offer i.e. around a tenner, I buy it. I have a couple that are pretty quiet. But I agree, it is the biggest drawback of them. I find turning the radio up helps. The noise does act as a reminder that it is on. Had one heater that turned the fan off when up to temperature. Really annoyed me when I went out to work and came back to a very warm house. Not so bad when I left it on at night as I am on E7.

You can compare the usage between types. My guess is the fan heater will be the cheaper one to run.

Find out why such a difference. It may be that you like a hotter house, or you have an underperforming house. The EPC assessor probably used default values for when the house was built i.e. no insulation, single glazed windows, high air infiltration. Solar Thermal, is not only a 1 trick pony, it also needs servicing. PV does not. The electricity from the PV can be used for many different things, including warming up the sauna (though a simple, small greenhouse would almost get as warm). So rather than try and integrate two wet systems to work with each other, and in reality, there is little difference between an ASPH and a GSHP, let PV power the ASHP during the day. Or charge the car, that will give you the best return (compared to an ICE powered one). All this RE business is really playing with averages and probabilities i.e. Most likely time of maximum generation is between 10AM and 2PM, the weekly mean generation will drop in the winter, and rise in the spring, peaking in the summer. Take advantage of that, don't think that a box of electronics will make it produce more than it can. But work on the house first and reduce those losses, then look at what you can buy the kit for. Subsidies and grants have skewed the market.

Bypasses the thermal fuse?

Dead easy. Raspberry Pi Zero W, with BME 280, power off the ethernet (POE), connect to your router, or another router, either wirelessly or via USB to ethernet adapter, up to you. Then log data to a NAS (maybe a simple USB memory stick on the router) and read from that with the PC. (edit: always check that what is in the description is the correct article, I have a few BMPs rather than BMEs because of shifty traders)

Why, is it running cables, even very small ones that is the problem? Here is an idea, using cheap parts, to start logging data. https://microcontrollerslab.com/micropython-bme280-esp32-esp8266-temperature-humidity-pressure/

Don't negotiate a position on something they have to do anyway. Just carry on as normal, do what you think is best/right, and ignore them.

What I would do. Just take several readings across the diameter of the fan and take the average airflow.

Think of a number, say the value of your property, double it, then add your birthday as a laugh. This will be a big number. Then say to your neighbour, they can buy your place for this much money, and read the number out.

Get a proper heat loss calculation done? Are you in Cornwall as you mention Kensa.

Starting with your DHW, if you have a ΔT of 20K i.e. heat from 30°C to 50°C, that will be 5.8 kWh, call it 6 kWh. If you use that amount every day, with no reheating, then that will be ~2.2 MWh/year, you have around double that figure, which seems reasonable. Your 10 kW at -2°C is about right for the MCS minimum temperature (supply 99% of the time). See chart. You can work out your heat loads from the minimum temperatures and how long they are likely to last.

It may have to in the future, these houses often get battered by the sea.

I am surprised that you have never modelled it. Plotting thermal conductivity against thickness produces an exponential decay, similar to Newtons Law of Cooling i.e. rapid decline at first, followed by slow decline as the thickness increases. The line stays the same shape, regardless of temperature differences, just that the power losses change in proportion. So taking the two extremes of Styrofoam (0.033 W.m-1.K-1) and concrete (0.92 W.m-1.K-1), you can see on the chart that even adding 0.01m (10mm) of styrofoam, will always outperform concrete. So the best value, for poorly insulated buildings is to add insulation. It is only when losses though air leakages are greater than conduction losses that the algorithm has to be changed. The trouble with solving air leakage is that many 'holes' will be in places that are hard to get at i.e. under floors, and if airtightness is significantly improved, then mechanical ventilation must be used to control humidity.

Do a couple more and it will become very easy to do, once.

It is why they say turning down your heating can save 20% on your energy bill. It is, in part, to do with incidental gains i.e. passive solar, cooking, bathing etc. It is also, in part, to do with external temperature variations, which follow, quite closely, a normal distribution curve.

Probably the same people that bleat the loudest about green taxes, energy companies ripping them off, and have never read their meters.

Not really the way to look at it. The idea is that energy usage is reduced, preferably to a level where domestic PV, a long with HP technology can balance each other. It is not to do with the actual cost, complexity or return on the insulation required.

There are roof integrated PV mounting systems that can also take Velux windows. Do a bit of research, i.e GSE system, and see how the module and tray sizes fit in with your design.

So does using descriptions like suitcases, for heat exchangers, and relating a heating system to holding a camera on a film set. If you want to be taken seriously, learn how the system works and take advice when it is offered, it has to be better than shooting the messenger.