SteamyTea

Not car batteries. They are designed to deliver huge amounts of power over a very short time frame. Nickel iron may be a suitable option. But which ever way you cut it, no option is going to be cheap.

Seems to be a job site for plumbers.

https://uk.renogy.com/12v-100ah-smart-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-pre-order/ If you have a spare grand for a couple of them.

That looks a good bit of kit. Assuming it can take around a kW of PV added to it, as an inverter it is not stupidly expensive.

I shall tell the postman when it does.

I think there was a thread where someone wanted to fit PV modules to their new build roof, but not connect them, in the hope the SAP/EPC would be improved. Let's not cheat the system, even in jest.

Question: Is this pure or modified sine wave? Answer: Its modified sine wave. I had to return it as my microwave really didn't like the output By S R. on 07 July 2020

It will be done badly. It is basically thee government trying to look like they are doing the right thing.

Damn, never got a chance to see what they said. "There is only one thing in life worse than being talked about, and that is not being talked about." Oscar Wilde

Is this inverter you bought a pure sine wave one. Just taking stab in the dark, if it is not, and the lights/induction hob also 'chop' the power, rather than do it properly then there may be times when all the peaks line up and a higher voltages is achieved. Then there will be times when one is on the way up, and another is on the wat down, which may draw more current than designed. I only have basic understanding of power electronics, not as simple as text books make out.

Was meant to be 'your', not 'our'. I live almost as far from you as o e can get in England. Did go to school in Canterbury.

Nothing compared to the noise our neighbours put up with when you start up your motorbikes (don't ask how I know).

It is all going to be a compromise, but if you can add extra in one place, that helps, especially if it is a side that does not see the sun.

Won't an A2AHP he cheaper that 6 solar modules, an inverter/charge controller and battery, and then all the kit to work work it back to a resistance heater. https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/tf-12000ch/telefunken-tf12000ch-air-conditioner-air-conditioner

Would have been better saying it with numbers. Talking of which. If you can find out the thermal conductivity of all the connected elements, then you may be able to set the UFH pipework inboard from the cold parts and still not loose too much power "out the sides". Just a matter of doing some calculations.

So is it basically block and beam, with insulation under it?

Or kW even. If it is trying to deliver most of that 8 kW to satisfy the 3 to 4 kWh/day, it should only run for about half an hour in total.

Went to skool in Westcliff.

May be worth getting in touch with them, they used to be quite helpful, unless you wanted money off them. Your DNO should also have records of what is installed, and how. They should also know where the kill switch is, and may tell you to use it.

Yes, not many. What power is the heat pump?

To the grid. Is it MCS or some dodgy slave trader with fake work papers.

You may only be putting in a handful of kWhs, so may not enough time for the HP to get into its stride. Especially if the flow temp is high. Does it cycle rapidly when heating the water?

Do you mean unused from the batteries? It don't go anywhere it just stays as chemicals. Was it fitted through the MCS, they may be able to help, sucker.

Does the DHW CoP vary, month by month, during the non heating season? What are the flow and return temperatures when heating water? What size is the cylinder?

I a sure the Baxi boiler installer instructions will have a minimum volume requirements. If you can find that figure, go to the next size up to reduce short cycling of the boiler.